TOZ35 trigger - need help
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TOZ35 trigger - need help
I can no longer set the trigger. I increased the "sear engagement" to no avail, so I know there's a tear down in my future. Once it's apart, what do I look for. The striker is cocked, and I'd really like to relax the spring. TIA
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toznerd
First, let's get the striker spring relaxed:
-Remove grip and you should be able to see the lever that holds the stricker back. Lower the breech block a hair, and depress the lever. The striker will go forward, and you can close the breech block.
Before any other disassembly, I would add some weight to the trigger (which also adds weight to the big lever, which, in turn, helps to hold the small lever in place) Try 1 full turn first, and 1/4 quarter turns after that for no more than about 5 complete turns.
If that doesn't work
-Remove trigger guard
-Remove forend, which will allow the trigger group to pivot down (You can drift out the rear pin and remove the whole unit, which will help to see what is going on.
-There are 4 springs on the unit: 1 flat spring in the front that controls the trigger weight, 1 curved spring in the rear that applies force to the accelerator, and a spring (bent at about 60 degrees) and limiter (flat spring stock) assembly next to the accelerator.
-I would examine the big lever, big lever spring, and nut first. The nut is a corny little piece of nylon that is prone to wearing, breaking, or simply getting misaligned.
-Take alook at the other springs and make sure that they are not malformed and they are aligned properly
-If that seems okay, check to make sure that there is no crud built up on the little lever and accelerator. I like using an aerosol cleaner like Break Free Powder Blast to clean and degrease that area.
Hopfully that helps. Its hard to really diagnose a problem without seeing what is going on. Keep us posted on your progress
toznerd
-Remove grip and you should be able to see the lever that holds the stricker back. Lower the breech block a hair, and depress the lever. The striker will go forward, and you can close the breech block.
Before any other disassembly, I would add some weight to the trigger (which also adds weight to the big lever, which, in turn, helps to hold the small lever in place) Try 1 full turn first, and 1/4 quarter turns after that for no more than about 5 complete turns.
If that doesn't work
-Remove trigger guard
-Remove forend, which will allow the trigger group to pivot down (You can drift out the rear pin and remove the whole unit, which will help to see what is going on.
-There are 4 springs on the unit: 1 flat spring in the front that controls the trigger weight, 1 curved spring in the rear that applies force to the accelerator, and a spring (bent at about 60 degrees) and limiter (flat spring stock) assembly next to the accelerator.
-I would examine the big lever, big lever spring, and nut first. The nut is a corny little piece of nylon that is prone to wearing, breaking, or simply getting misaligned.
-Take alook at the other springs and make sure that they are not malformed and they are aligned properly
-If that seems okay, check to make sure that there is no crud built up on the little lever and accelerator. I like using an aerosol cleaner like Break Free Powder Blast to clean and degrease that area.
Hopfully that helps. Its hard to really diagnose a problem without seeing what is going on. Keep us posted on your progress
toznerd
Re: TOZ35 trigger - need help
I just encountered the same symtoms with a TOZ-35 I purchased from CDNN. When I had the Accellorator housing out (set trigger) I discovered that it was a broken pin (shaft) holding the "small lever - #21".william wrote:I can no longer set the trigger. I increased the "sear engagement" to no avail, so I know there's a tear down in my future. Once it's apart, what do I look for. The striker is cocked, and I'd really like to relax the spring. TIA
It took considerable effort to remove the end of the pin that was broken off just inside the righthand wall of the housing. Once the broken piece was out the pin was out, I made a new one from a 1mm tool steel pin cut to 12.5mm long (#60 HSS drill shank). Of the things that might have been broken this was relativly painless hope your problem is similar
David