I use an Anschutz 1913 action and trigget unit. the rifle is 3 y old. previously i developed a problem with my trigger and it was with the first pull weight being erratic after i cancelled the pull from a 'ready to shoot point'.in a world cup last year , an anschuetz guy checked it and changed the trigger unit for me and it was all ok for the time being. inspite of not changing or tweaking the trigger i kept on training with it untill it started to behave in a similar manner once more! i talked to a veteran world level athlete and he told me "How did You manage to do it(cause the trigger to malfunction)". well i did not get his idea. i dont know the exact term for this problem but it is something like "HANG" . please note i withdraw the pressure on trigger quite often from a very advanced stage of shot release(between end of 1st and start of 2nd pull).im confused whether this "world class finger" is causing all the trouble or not!
thanks in advance.
Trigger Glitch!
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
Hi
I had this on my 1913 trigger after I changed my trigger settings. I know what you mean, when you release the trigger from just about squeezing off a shot and then when you finally shot, the 2nd stage weight is way too low.
I remember I had both decreased the 1st stage pull weight and increased the 1st stage pull length and then the problem started. So I spent some time sitting on the couch in front of the TV with the barrel and action in my lap, with a empty brass in the chamber, opening and closing the bolt and checking the trigger until I fixed the problem. I found it very useful to actually see the sears etc because it much easier to see what was happening.
However I just can't quite remember what I changed that fixed it (sorry) and I guess it would a little irresponsible to recommend a fix without seeing the trigger unit. However it sounds just like the problem I had. So I firstly would recommend you find someone who knows their way around a Anschutx trigger unit. Also check that there is lube (molybdenum disulphide grease) on the actual sear, as Anschutz recommend, and the trigger unit hasn't got dirty. And finally you could do what I did. Maybe even find another trigger that is working OK and observe what is different between the two.
All the adjustments for the trigger unit are in your Anschutz instruction manual or at the Anschutz website.
Hope this helps
Martin
I had this on my 1913 trigger after I changed my trigger settings. I know what you mean, when you release the trigger from just about squeezing off a shot and then when you finally shot, the 2nd stage weight is way too low.
I remember I had both decreased the 1st stage pull weight and increased the 1st stage pull length and then the problem started. So I spent some time sitting on the couch in front of the TV with the barrel and action in my lap, with a empty brass in the chamber, opening and closing the bolt and checking the trigger until I fixed the problem. I found it very useful to actually see the sears etc because it much easier to see what was happening.
However I just can't quite remember what I changed that fixed it (sorry) and I guess it would a little irresponsible to recommend a fix without seeing the trigger unit. However it sounds just like the problem I had. So I firstly would recommend you find someone who knows their way around a Anschutx trigger unit. Also check that there is lube (molybdenum disulphide grease) on the actual sear, as Anschutz recommend, and the trigger unit hasn't got dirty. And finally you could do what I did. Maybe even find another trigger that is working OK and observe what is different between the two.
All the adjustments for the trigger unit are in your Anschutz instruction manual or at the Anschutz website.
Hope this helps
Martin
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Tim Conrad
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 10:04 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs
In general, I like to see most of the trigger 'pull' weight in the first stage. Also, the standard Anschutz trigger doesn't work very well below 70 grams of pull weight. Factory usually sets it about 100 grams.
Your trigger may be dirty. That happens to guns, especially if you shoot outdoors a lot. You may be able to blow some of the dirt out, that can sometimes make the problem worse. An ultrasonic cleaner (like the kind used for jewelry) can really help. Use distilled water (clean !) and tri-sodium phosphate. Huh ? That's detergent, without any additives. You may be amazed (and dismayed) at the junk that comes out. Once the trigger is clean, dry it well, compressed air (clean !) works for this. Then apply a very small drop of very light machine oil to the various pivots in the trigger. Very small drop. Very light oil.
You have to remove the trigger from the gun to do this. That's easy. Putting it back on the gun in the right place is a bit more complex. If you know how, no problem. If not, read the manual and check with a good gunsmith who does know how to do it.
Your trigger may be dirty. That happens to guns, especially if you shoot outdoors a lot. You may be able to blow some of the dirt out, that can sometimes make the problem worse. An ultrasonic cleaner (like the kind used for jewelry) can really help. Use distilled water (clean !) and tri-sodium phosphate. Huh ? That's detergent, without any additives. You may be amazed (and dismayed) at the junk that comes out. Once the trigger is clean, dry it well, compressed air (clean !) works for this. Then apply a very small drop of very light machine oil to the various pivots in the trigger. Very small drop. Very light oil.
You have to remove the trigger from the gun to do this. That's easy. Putting it back on the gun in the right place is a bit more complex. If you know how, no problem. If not, read the manual and check with a good gunsmith who does know how to do it.
This is the type of lubricant I find works well http://www.clockworks.com/lube.html. Clock cleaning fluid is pretty good as well but a little bit more tricky to use.Then apply a very small drop of very light machine oil to the various pivots in the trigger. Very small drop. Very light oil.
Rutty
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MR T
It sounds like the sear isn't following the cam nib when the trigger is released from the first stage limit.
I took my trigger (5018) apart and using jewelers rouge on a light card wheel, I polished the sear surfaces to absolutely perfect surfaces.
That is now the best trigger I've ever used.
But since then I have also eliminated the first stage and now use it as a single stage. At the end of a long string, the single stage helps me to eliminate "lock finger" where I just flat can't release the shot.
T
I took my trigger (5018) apart and using jewelers rouge on a light card wheel, I polished the sear surfaces to absolutely perfect surfaces.
That is now the best trigger I've ever used.
But since then I have also eliminated the first stage and now use it as a single stage. At the end of a long string, the single stage helps me to eliminate "lock finger" where I just flat can't release the shot.
T