I've been looking at spotting scopes and don't exactly know what all the numbers are all about, for example: 20 60x60, 15 45x50, 12 24x50????
What's good for 50 and 100 yds.
thanks,
Scott
Spotting scopes, what do the numbers really mean
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Nicole Hamilton
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The first number is the power (the magnification). The second number is the diameter of the front objective (lens) in mm, useful as a measure of the light-gathering ability, which is important to make sure the image stays bright even at high magnification in low light.
For a 100-yard match with a .223 (AR-15) -- and especially if you expect you may want to shoot any longer distances -- I recommend roughly 20x to 30x power and a 60mm or larger objective to see the holes easily. Higher power is not necessarily better as problems of "mirage" (causing the image to swim) begin to appear as you go up in magnification. A zoom is unnecessary and usually results in a lower-quality image, so most shooters find it's better to stay with a fixed power. More important is "long eye relief" (LER) so you don't have to put your eye really close to the scope to be able to see the whole image clearly. That's especially important for anyone with glasses. A 45-degree angled eyepiece is really nice because it lets you lean over to check a shot more easily without breaking position. Flourite lenses can make for an even brighter image but you don't see them so often because they are so expensive.
Figure to spend some real money -- $600 to $800 -- even without flourite. A good scope capable of working well at 100 yards is not cheap. Good brands (in no particular order) include Kowa, Nikon and Swarovski (though obviously, there must be others.) Also be sure to get a good, heavy stand to minimize vibration.
Myself, I have a Kowa TSN-821 with a 27x LER eyepiece that I bought after doing a lot of research and looking through other people's scopes. I'm very happy with it; I don't think I've looked through anything that looked better to my eyes. A very pleasant surprise was discovering it focuses really close, meaning that even though it's way more scope than anyone needs for 50-foot bullseye or 10m air pistol, I use it in those matches also. (Only disadvantage is that it's a bit big and heavy for those matches but, on the other hand, the image is fantastic. And it always attracts comments, "Oh, I see you're a high power shooter also.")
For a 100-yard match with a .223 (AR-15) -- and especially if you expect you may want to shoot any longer distances -- I recommend roughly 20x to 30x power and a 60mm or larger objective to see the holes easily. Higher power is not necessarily better as problems of "mirage" (causing the image to swim) begin to appear as you go up in magnification. A zoom is unnecessary and usually results in a lower-quality image, so most shooters find it's better to stay with a fixed power. More important is "long eye relief" (LER) so you don't have to put your eye really close to the scope to be able to see the whole image clearly. That's especially important for anyone with glasses. A 45-degree angled eyepiece is really nice because it lets you lean over to check a shot more easily without breaking position. Flourite lenses can make for an even brighter image but you don't see them so often because they are so expensive.
Figure to spend some real money -- $600 to $800 -- even without flourite. A good scope capable of working well at 100 yards is not cheap. Good brands (in no particular order) include Kowa, Nikon and Swarovski (though obviously, there must be others.) Also be sure to get a good, heavy stand to minimize vibration.
Myself, I have a Kowa TSN-821 with a 27x LER eyepiece that I bought after doing a lot of research and looking through other people's scopes. I'm very happy with it; I don't think I've looked through anything that looked better to my eyes. A very pleasant surprise was discovering it focuses really close, meaning that even though it's way more scope than anyone needs for 50-foot bullseye or 10m air pistol, I use it in those matches also. (Only disadvantage is that it's a bit big and heavy for those matches but, on the other hand, the image is fantastic. And it always attracts comments, "Oh, I see you're a high power shooter also.")
I only partially agree with Nicole. True, if you get a nice Kowa you get a great scope. False that you NEED to spend that much to get a good scope. For instance the one that champions choice sells (their catalog number cc645) is a very this is a well made hearty scope and it works well at 50 and 100 yards (I have two of them). They (champ choice and champ shooters) also sell several budget imports that I have seen lots of people using with good results. If you are on a budget that prevents you from buying one of the upper end Kowas then try one of the lesser models from champ choice or champ shooters.
A couple of other things that I would like to add is to avoid a varible power eyepiece if possible. If you wear glasses then you will probably want a scope with a long eye relief eyepiece.
A couple of other things that I would like to add is to avoid a varible power eyepiece if possible. If you wear glasses then you will probably want a scope with a long eye relief eyepiece.
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hipwr223
I primarily shoot NRA highpower and a spotting scope is VERY important. But resolving bullet holes is the least important aspect of a good scope. In full course highpower there is someone in the target pits marking and scoring your hits so you can see the spotter in the target with even a crude spotting scope. Where the scope comes into play is mirage. All scopes are going to resolve mirage, but good scopes make it easier.
Really good optical quality allows you to focus on the layers of mirage much easier and more clearly than cheaper scopes. In highpower where the wind is everything at 600 yds and beyond it is vital. But I would imagine that at 50 and 100yds the ability to see little changes in mirage would be of equal importance.
I have used the Kowas and Unertls, and when it comes down to it the best scopes I have found for the money are the Leica Televid 77 angled. Great optics and durable too. Expect to spend about $1500.00 but well worth it.
John Sylvester
Really good optical quality allows you to focus on the layers of mirage much easier and more clearly than cheaper scopes. In highpower where the wind is everything at 600 yds and beyond it is vital. But I would imagine that at 50 and 100yds the ability to see little changes in mirage would be of equal importance.
I have used the Kowas and Unertls, and when it comes down to it the best scopes I have found for the money are the Leica Televid 77 angled. Great optics and durable too. Expect to spend about $1500.00 but well worth it.
John Sylvester