Morini problem
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Morini problem
My Morini 162E loss air from fixed cylinder. The problem is in the cylinder end (filler). I need information for solutions. Only I can to send the cylinder to other countries for repair. Thanks.
Probably just bad gasgets...
Had the same problem but in the other end (trigger end of sylinder) and went to my localgunsmith and had him change them?
Cost me about $30, for 3 gasgets and work...
Cost me about $30, for 3 gasgets and work...
Alternate solution
In the past, Morini sold a kit which converted the fixed cylinder model (162E) to accept replaceable cylinders like the current 162EI. I don't know if this kit is still available, but our host, Pilkguns, would know. Since your 162E fixed cylinder is rather old by compressed air cylinder standards, and since you apparently cannot ship the whole gun out of your country, perhaps it would be worth buying the kit. You would get new replaceable cylinders that way. I suspect that Pilkguns, if they can obtain the kit, could send instructions for the proper mounting of it, along with the kit. Hope this helps.
FredB
FredB
Convertion kit
Hi!
I have considered the convertion kit to get the replaceble cylinders, but didn't think it was worth the price (about $650 here in Norway). As far as I know the kit is available from Morini.
It wont make the gun better, just let you change the sylinder. normaly i can shoot two full matches (150+ shots) in one filling of the fixed cylinder.
To get the compensator to match the 162EI is a better way of spending money, as it is about $120. (But thats a bit of topic....)
I have considered the convertion kit to get the replaceble cylinders, but didn't think it was worth the price (about $650 here in Norway). As far as I know the kit is available from Morini.
It wont make the gun better, just let you change the sylinder. normaly i can shoot two full matches (150+ shots) in one filling of the fixed cylinder.
To get the compensator to match the 162EI is a better way of spending money, as it is about $120. (But thats a bit of topic....)
-
Fortitudo Dei
- Posts: 256
- Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 8:30 pm
- Location: New Zealand
I had the same problem with my 162e (i.e. non-removable cylinder). I was going to send it to Rob Potter at Potter's Firearms in Australia (I'm in New Zealand), but faced the problem that while AP's are unrestricted in NZ, they are fully restricted and require full registration in Australia. The bureaucracy involved in trying to send it to Australia did not make it worthwhile, so I rendezvoused with Rob when he was in NZ on a visit. Rob very kindly replaced all the gaskets, sold me a spare set, and showed me the process to replace them again when they need it. (so a big "shout-out" to Potter's Firearms for providing the best service in the Southern Hemisphere! http://www.potfire.com.au.
It is not hugely difficult - you could either request a complete gasket set from (say) Pilkguns or Potters and try and do it yourself - or remove the cylinder and send that to one of the above and allow them to do it for you. However if you do that, I suppose they may have to have a spare 162e lying around for them to pressure-test it.
To remove the cylinder, firstly release all pressure by pressing the protruding fill nipple-valve against a hard surface. Next you have to lock the pistol in a vice in a horizontal position by the cylinder. Naturally this is a bit tricky as the cylinder is round and the sides of a vice are flat. The best way of doing this is to sheath the cylinder in a length of a similar diameter pipe split down the middle before placing it in the vice, or at a pinch, wrap it in layers of cloth and very gently tighten the vice around it. You want to grip the cylinder firmly in the vice BUT not scratch it or (heaven forbid) buckle it by squeezing it with too much pressure. Next remove the barrel by loosening the two Allen screws on top of the pistol which hold the barrel at it's base. Once loosened, the barrel will easily slide out. Now you can remove the cylinder by carefully rotating the main body of this pistol (i.e. unscrewing it) from the locked cylinder. At this point you could either send the cylinder away to be serviced, or if you have a new set of gaskets, carefully disassemble the cylinder (using a small spanner etc), documenting (perhaps even taking close-up digital photos) as you get to each step. Do it carefully and methodically - it is not terribly complicated, but you don't want to stuff it up. Very lightly grease each new gasket before you fit it with a smear of silicone grease. Naturally it makes sense to replace all the gaskets, but the one which is probably at fault is a small (about 3mm diameter) gasket just behind the nipple valve. Just to make life more difficult, this is a square-section gasket rather than a standard round-section gasket like all the others. It also has to be carefully prised out of its groove and carefully replaced without nicking it. Then reassemble the cyclinder, re-fit the barrel, and fill to see if (hopefully) the pressure holds. Sometimes the small valve gasket has to be re-fitted a couple of times before it holds the pressure properly (mine did).
Naturally I would prefer to have my pistol professionally serviced everytime, but sometimes when you live on the edge of the earth, you just have to make do with what you have.
It is not hugely difficult - you could either request a complete gasket set from (say) Pilkguns or Potters and try and do it yourself - or remove the cylinder and send that to one of the above and allow them to do it for you. However if you do that, I suppose they may have to have a spare 162e lying around for them to pressure-test it.
To remove the cylinder, firstly release all pressure by pressing the protruding fill nipple-valve against a hard surface. Next you have to lock the pistol in a vice in a horizontal position by the cylinder. Naturally this is a bit tricky as the cylinder is round and the sides of a vice are flat. The best way of doing this is to sheath the cylinder in a length of a similar diameter pipe split down the middle before placing it in the vice, or at a pinch, wrap it in layers of cloth and very gently tighten the vice around it. You want to grip the cylinder firmly in the vice BUT not scratch it or (heaven forbid) buckle it by squeezing it with too much pressure. Next remove the barrel by loosening the two Allen screws on top of the pistol which hold the barrel at it's base. Once loosened, the barrel will easily slide out. Now you can remove the cylinder by carefully rotating the main body of this pistol (i.e. unscrewing it) from the locked cylinder. At this point you could either send the cylinder away to be serviced, or if you have a new set of gaskets, carefully disassemble the cylinder (using a small spanner etc), documenting (perhaps even taking close-up digital photos) as you get to each step. Do it carefully and methodically - it is not terribly complicated, but you don't want to stuff it up. Very lightly grease each new gasket before you fit it with a smear of silicone grease. Naturally it makes sense to replace all the gaskets, but the one which is probably at fault is a small (about 3mm diameter) gasket just behind the nipple valve. Just to make life more difficult, this is a square-section gasket rather than a standard round-section gasket like all the others. It also has to be carefully prised out of its groove and carefully replaced without nicking it. Then reassemble the cyclinder, re-fit the barrel, and fill to see if (hopefully) the pressure holds. Sometimes the small valve gasket has to be re-fitted a couple of times before it holds the pressure properly (mine did).
Naturally I would prefer to have my pistol professionally serviced everytime, but sometimes when you live on the edge of the earth, you just have to make do with what you have.