I have been doing a lot of dry firing recently, just triggering to release the solenoid with the action closed not engaging and releasing the striker each time. I have recently started having issues in live fire where occasionally it will take 2 or 3 pulls of the trigger (you can hear the solenoid click each time) to release the shot. First thing I tried was to replace the batteries but no improvement.
Has the dry firing somehow weakened the solenoid?
What if any maintenance/lubrication is recommended for the solenoid?
I also intend to do a complete pull down to inspect / clean / lubricate the firing mechanism but have one question regarding part (80) - Catch Detent on the schematic. Part (81) pressure spring acts on the catch detent (80) and is held in place by a screw (78). Aside from trying to count the number of turns that screw (78) is currently engaged by when disassembling, what is the correct method for setting the load on the pressure spring (81) when I reassemble?
Thanks for your help.
LP10E misfire
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Re: LP10E misfire
There should be absolutely NO lubrication on the solenoid, that much I know!argus wrote:What if any maintenance/lubrication is recommended for the solenoid?
Can't help with the other bit, on my parts list 80 is the bolt and 81 is the trigger blade. Can't find 79 at all.
Re: LP10E misfire
Thanks for confirming that.j-team wrote:There should be absolutely NO lubrication on the solenoid, that much I know!
I must have a different version of the schematic to you.
Re: LP10E misfire
Good morning,
I am an Italian shooter and I have been using an LP10E for some time and I also have a problem similar to “argus”.
Or rather there are two problems:
◦ the batteries last very little
◦ it started to fire without releasing the striker, even when it shouldn't.
I verified that to make it fire correctly I have to turn the electronics off and on again. Then and only once, it is able to fire correctly.
Could it be a problem with the electronic board? I saw that in the exploded drawing there are two boards:
+ #4008030517 “Electronic board complete BLUE”
+ #4008030514 “Electronic board complete GREEN”
Does anyone know what the difference is?
Could it be a coil problem instead?
Here too there are two different codes:
+ #4008030612 “electronic hammer red/blue”
+ #4008030611 “electronic hammer green”
The same question as before: what is the difference?
If I had to replace the electronic board, is there a compatibility problem between it
and the coil?
What do you recommend I do?
Thanks
I am an Italian shooter and I have been using an LP10E for some time and I also have a problem similar to “argus”.
Or rather there are two problems:
◦ the batteries last very little
◦ it started to fire without releasing the striker, even when it shouldn't.
I verified that to make it fire correctly I have to turn the electronics off and on again. Then and only once, it is able to fire correctly.
Could it be a problem with the electronic board? I saw that in the exploded drawing there are two boards:
+ #4008030517 “Electronic board complete BLUE”
+ #4008030514 “Electronic board complete GREEN”
Does anyone know what the difference is?
Could it be a coil problem instead?
Here too there are two different codes:
+ #4008030612 “electronic hammer red/blue”
+ #4008030611 “electronic hammer green”
The same question as before: what is the difference?
If I had to replace the electronic board, is there a compatibility problem between it
and the coil?
What do you recommend I do?
Thanks
Re: LP10E misfire
Hi srgfctG,
As with all things electronic, start by replacing the battery.
If after replacing it the pistol still misbehaves, then consider the rest of the components.
Having a friend that has a similar pistol from who you can borrow pieces, will help a lot in diagnosing the problem.
Hope this helps
As with all things electronic, start by replacing the battery.
If after replacing it the pistol still misbehaves, then consider the rest of the components.
Having a friend that has a similar pistol from who you can borrow pieces, will help a lot in diagnosing the problem.
Hope this helps
Re: LP10E misfire
Hi srgfctG
Please read this thread, it may help you.
viewtopic.php?p=331679#p331679
In my case it turned out to be some failing components on the electronic board that caused the problem.
I was able to repair the board by replacing those parts. If you have the same issue of the capacitors on the board becoming very hot, you may be able to find a local electronics repairer that can change them for you if you can source the components.
The board colour is to do with how the switch in the trigger unit is configured (normally open or normally closed)
If you need to replace the board you should use the same colour as the original.
Green was used in the early production and will not work if replaced with red or blue without other modifications.
Red and blue were used with the updated trigger and I believe can be interchanged but best to check with your local distributor.
Please read this thread, it may help you.
viewtopic.php?p=331679#p331679
In my case it turned out to be some failing components on the electronic board that caused the problem.
I was able to repair the board by replacing those parts. If you have the same issue of the capacitors on the board becoming very hot, you may be able to find a local electronics repairer that can change them for you if you can source the components.
The board colour is to do with how the switch in the trigger unit is configured (normally open or normally closed)
If you need to replace the board you should use the same colour as the original.
Green was used in the early production and will not work if replaced with red or blue without other modifications.
Red and blue were used with the updated trigger and I believe can be interchanged but best to check with your local distributor.
Re: LP10E misfire
Thanks a lot for the suggestions.
The first thing I did was to replace the batteries, but nothing changed.
I think I'll buy a new board, code 4008030517 = blue model. If I compare it to mine, the only difference is precisely those 100 pF capacitors, which in mine are whole modules, but in the picture on the Steyr site are two groups of three individual components.
On the Steyr site I also saw the item 4008030619 "Upgrade set aluminum trigger for LP 10 E incl. Catch detent without module & grip
requires module blue 4008030517". Is this perhaps the solution to the plastic trigger structure that has been talked about so much on our site?
The first thing I did was to replace the batteries, but nothing changed.
I think I'll buy a new board, code 4008030517 = blue model. If I compare it to mine, the only difference is precisely those 100 pF capacitors, which in mine are whole modules, but in the picture on the Steyr site are two groups of three individual components.
On the Steyr site I also saw the item 4008030619 "Upgrade set aluminum trigger for LP 10 E incl. Catch detent without module & grip
requires module blue 4008030517". Is this perhaps the solution to the plastic trigger structure that has been talked about so much on our site?
Re: LP10E misfire
If your original faulty board is green, then a replacement blue board will not work with your trigger unit.
If your original faulty board is red or blue, then a replacement blue board should be fine.
I am sure Steyr Service can advise you best based on serial number.
If your original faulty board is red or blue, then a replacement blue board should be fine.
I am sure Steyr Service can advise you best based on serial number.
Re: LP10E misfire
I bought from "euroshooting.eu" the #4008030517 “Electronic board complete BLUE”.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
Thanks again for the suggestions.