Remove cylinder after each session?

[GoodEnuf]

I shoot both 10m pistol and rifle at home for personal non-competitive pleasure. I am now shooting a FWB 800W rifle about 6 times a week, about 50 shots per session. I have a compressor, so I keep the pressure range between 90 and 180 bar, charging only when the pressure drops into the hashmark red range on the cylinder gauge, and I am not concerned in maximizing shots per fill. Hence, storage with a partially filled cylinder. Ditto a FWB P8X.

Is it better for seal longevity and overall equipment care to leave the cylinder screwed into the airgun body, or to relieve any pressures by unscrewing the cylinder until the "thunk" that indicates pressure is relieved. Safety is not a concern in my firing situation and should not play a part in the evaluation. I am a bit concerned about the multiple threading cycles, and valve recharging cycles. On the other hand, keeping the sealing O ring(s) perpetually under pressure may not be a good thing. (I also relieve the pressure on the bolt seal by pulling the cocking lever back but not far enough to cock the trigger, and putting a pellet in the barrel before storage to prevent 'other things' from getting in.)

I have an 'old' FWB P34, and an Anschutz 2002 PCP; each was acquired new ~25 years ago, and neither has had any seal or system failures. I like to think it is because of good care and luck.

I know it may be a 1) non-issue, and/or 2) these seals are replaceable, but I am interested how others treat this matter, especially considering the money tied up in these airguns.

Since this affects both pistols and rifles, I am posting on both boards to get opinions from both groups.

JE

[brent375hh]

I remove the cylinder to remove pressure from the inlet valve seal, and the firing valve seal, along with the regulator spring stack. I use moly grease on my cylinder threads and have not seen any wear on the threads from my habits.

[Gwhite]

A couple of air pistol vendors provide plastic spacers so you can leave the cylinder screwed on securely, but not have the valve open. One advantage is that if the seal between the cylinder & the pistol is tired or dirty, you can get a leak there. It may not be noticeable over the length of a firing session, but you could find your cylinder empty the next time you want to shoot.

I'm in the process of designing and 3D printing a whole bunch of spacers for all the different pistols the team I coach uses. I'll put the designs up on Thingiverse once I have a full set.

I found a particular problem with Benelli Kites. If you leave the cylinder off, but in the case under the barrel, the anodized internal threads on the cylinder can bang into the brass pin the cylinder seals onto. I have several pistol where the brass is visibly chewed up right where cylinder is supposed to seal. With the spacers, the cylinder can be screwed on securely, and that won't happen.

[B Lafferty]

A couple of air pistol vendors provide plastic spacers so you can leave the cylinder screwed on securely, but not have the valve open. One advantage is that if the seal between the cylinder & the pistol is tired or dirty, you can get a leak there. It may not be noticeable over the length of a firing session, but you could find your cylinder empty the next time you want to shoot.

I'm in the process of designing and 3D printing a whole bunch of spacers for all the different pistols the team I coach uses. I'll put the designs up on Thingiverse once I have a full set.

I found a particular problem with Benelli Kites. If you leave the cylinder off, but in the case under the barrel, the anodized internal threads on the cylinder can bang into the brass pin the cylinder seals onto. I have several pistol where the brass is visibly chewed up right where cylinder is supposed to seal. With the spacers, the cylinder can be screwed on securely, and that won't happen.

What I do with my AP-20 is unscrew so that the cylinder is loose, and then put a piece of cut up credit card between the cylinder and the compensator at the end of the barrel to prevent any rattling in the case. The foam of the case pretty well prevents any bouncing around that might damage threads. Once you have a spacer for the AP-20, please just name your price. :-)

[Rover]

IF you want to mess with this:
Get a big rubber washer from the hardware store or your junk and cut a notch in it.

[m1963]

(Posts merged and available in Olympic Pistol, or Olympic Rifle, forums as intended by OP. Thanks, Rover....m1963)

[GoodEnuf]

Rover's idea with the notch is top notch. It allows using a spacer with minimal unscrewing of the cylinder. The slot would be as wide as the cylinder's threaded inserted end. It looks like it would work with my P8x, and most pistols which allow access from below, but there would be no advantage with the 800W and other rifles which have no external side or low access to the connection. I'll give it a try.

GW could easily incorporate the slot idea into his printed spacer set if he thinks it has value for pistols, but for rifle use, a full printed spacer inserted on the cylinder before screwing it on looks to be the only way and the 3D printed spacer would be created to fit perfectly. Rover's idea of using a plumbing washer or a loose fit o-ring is still a good one in any case.

JE

[ojh]

Great minds think alike... I have utilized Rover's idea for some time. I use a rubber grommet that is intended for lining holes in sheet metal. Had bought a set of these for another projects so it did no even cost any extra. I keep the grommet in place all the time except when actually shooting pellets. This has the advantage that if I forget to turn the dry fire switch to training position, I won't scare the rest of the family with a loud "POP".