Anyone know how hard it is to replace a sear and how it is done? Looking at it, it looks fairly nightmarish compared to most other guns I've worked on.
Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
.48098.0
Pardini SP gunsmithing question
Moderators: rexifelis, pilkguns
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Gene
Re: Pardini SP gunsmithing question
: Anyone know how hard it is to replace a sear and how it is done? Looking at it, it looks fairly nightmarish compared to most other guns I've worked on.
: Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
If you have to ask the question you don't know enough to do the job. Send it to Don Nygord and he will do the job right at a fair price. I'm curious though. Why do you need a new sear? I shoot an SP and I can't imagine why you need a new one. I've been shooting a long time and I can't recall a sear wearing out on any quality target pistol I've ever heard of.
gazda-at-sbcglobal.net.48116.48098
: Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
If you have to ask the question you don't know enough to do the job. Send it to Don Nygord and he will do the job right at a fair price. I'm curious though. Why do you need a new sear? I shoot an SP and I can't imagine why you need a new one. I've been shooting a long time and I can't recall a sear wearing out on any quality target pistol I've ever heard of.
gazda-at-sbcglobal.net.48116.48098
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Mark
Any responses other than "send it to Nygord?"
I've adjusted out the second stage to convert my SP to a single stage trigger (makes life a little easier for Rapid Fire, plus, I like them better in general). But in doing this, I've reduced sear engagement quite a bit and I've heard this can result in premature wear of the sear. This acceptable to me, provide that replacement parts aren't prohibitively expensive and I can do it myself. Given a halfway decent explanation, I'm pretty adept at working on guns. I knew someone was going to say "ship it to Nygord", but every time I do that it costs me at least $100, so I don't want to do that, if it's something I can do myself.
: : Anyone know how hard it is to replace a sear and how it is done? Looking at it, it looks fairly nightmarish compared to most other guns I've worked on.
: : Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
: If you have to ask the question you don't know enough to do the job. Send it to Don Nygord and he will do the job right at a fair price. I'm curious though. Why do you need a new sear? I shoot an SP and I can't imagine why you need a new one. I've been shooting a long time and I can't recall a sear wearing out on any quality target pistol I've ever heard of.
.48118.48116
: : Anyone know how hard it is to replace a sear and how it is done? Looking at it, it looks fairly nightmarish compared to most other guns I've worked on.
: : Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
: If you have to ask the question you don't know enough to do the job. Send it to Don Nygord and he will do the job right at a fair price. I'm curious though. Why do you need a new sear? I shoot an SP and I can't imagine why you need a new one. I've been shooting a long time and I can't recall a sear wearing out on any quality target pistol I've ever heard of.
.48118.48116
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Tom Duffy
Re: Any responses other than "send it to Nygord?"
Hi,
I've been shooting an SPE since I bought it used in 1990. I've put at least 50 cases of ammo through it with the trigger set for single stage 1000G and have not worn a sear yet.
One word of caution, change the recoil spring at least yearly. They shorten up, loose tesnion and allow the gun to open early. Sooty cases and erratic feeding/ejection are good indicators you need to change it.
: I've adjusted out the second stage to convert my SP to a single stage trigger (makes life a little easier for Rapid Fire, plus, I like them better in general). But in doing this, I've reduced sear engagement quite a bit and I've heard this can result in premature wear of the sear. This acceptable to me, provide that replacement parts aren't prohibitively expensive and I can do it myself. Given a halfway decent explanation, I'm pretty adept at working on guns. I knew someone was going to say "ship it to Nygord", but every time I do that it costs me at least $100, so I don't want to do that, if it's something I can do myself.
: : : Anyone know how hard it is to replace a sear and how it is done? Looking at it, it looks fairly nightmarish compared to most other guns I've worked on.
: : : Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
: : If you have to ask the question you don't know enough to do the job. Send it to Don Nygord and he will do the job right at a fair price. I'm curious though. Why do you need a new sear? I shoot an SP and I can't imagine why you need a new one. I've been shooting a long time and I can't recall a sear wearing out on any quality target pistol I've ever heard of.
tomduffy-at-hotmail.com.48156.48118
I've been shooting an SPE since I bought it used in 1990. I've put at least 50 cases of ammo through it with the trigger set for single stage 1000G and have not worn a sear yet.
One word of caution, change the recoil spring at least yearly. They shorten up, loose tesnion and allow the gun to open early. Sooty cases and erratic feeding/ejection are good indicators you need to change it.
: I've adjusted out the second stage to convert my SP to a single stage trigger (makes life a little easier for Rapid Fire, plus, I like them better in general). But in doing this, I've reduced sear engagement quite a bit and I've heard this can result in premature wear of the sear. This acceptable to me, provide that replacement parts aren't prohibitively expensive and I can do it myself. Given a halfway decent explanation, I'm pretty adept at working on guns. I knew someone was going to say "ship it to Nygord", but every time I do that it costs me at least $100, so I don't want to do that, if it's something I can do myself.
: : : Anyone know how hard it is to replace a sear and how it is done? Looking at it, it looks fairly nightmarish compared to most other guns I've worked on.
: : : Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
: : If you have to ask the question you don't know enough to do the job. Send it to Don Nygord and he will do the job right at a fair price. I'm curious though. Why do you need a new sear? I shoot an SP and I can't imagine why you need a new one. I've been shooting a long time and I can't recall a sear wearing out on any quality target pistol I've ever heard of.
tomduffy-at-hotmail.com.48156.48118
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Sam
Re: Pardini SP gunsmithing question
: Anyone know how hard it is to replace a sear and how it is done? Looking at it, it looks fairly nightmarish compared to most other guns I've worked on.
: Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
Dear Mark,
Why do you want to change the sear??
How long have you been using the gun??
Was the gun has been subjected to proper maintenance??
Will you get a better shooting results if you change the sear??
Or, you just want to change the sear because you only feel this will be better!!
You need to have positive indentifications before you will do so. Otherwise you will waste a lot of time and money without any better results.
Before you want to change a sear mechanism there are some following questions also:
1. Does the trigger pulling feel sluggish?? If yes, then have you clean it?? Yes or no?? If yes, was that proper?? Is there any sluggish feeling when you pull the trigger???
2. I have been using the guns for so long time. For how long?? Have you clean it right way??
3. Will the changing make the shooting better, and why??
Guide line for proper maintenace of this pistol. Since the trigger unit is fixed and cannot be cleaned outside, so you must use agent or spray(for gun cleaning purpose only) to spray out all the deposit. After you can see the agent or oil came out clear, then stop. You have to get rid of the exceed oil or agent, then dry the part by using clean small piece of cloth. Do not leave any tiny piece inside! Use clean air(from a compressure that has filter unit or air from your refill tank) blow inside until you are sure that inside is real clean. After you are sure that the mechanism is dry and clean you can put some graphite (or some sear oil like breakfree or some special grease or........) on the mechanism. Each sear lubricating agent will have difference characteristic with the sear mechanism (the feeling of trigger pull can be a bit diff). For me I like graphite because it will last longer and would take less dirty deposit.
If a proper sear mechanism maintenance is not work, and you really need to change the sear please be careful when you are taking out the mechanism. Do not use excess force to punch any pin out. Only normal knocking force with small plastic or PV hammer head will do the job. On the otherside use a block of wood to avoid any scar to occure. After you get all the mechanism out you can look if the sear has scratch mark on it or not (normally yes for sluggish trigger). The scratch mark can be polished out by using sear stone and/or very fine sand paper and/or polish by using metal polish agent on a piece of leather. With proper shaping of sear engaging surface you do not need to buy a new sear!!! After you put back all the parts do not forget the lubrication of the mechanism as I told you.
In case you decide to take out the mechanism, and having some problem. Please drop me a mail.
Sam
allarm-at-hotmail.com.48166.48098
: Also, anyone know roughly how much a spare one would go for from Nygord or anyone else?
Dear Mark,
Why do you want to change the sear??
How long have you been using the gun??
Was the gun has been subjected to proper maintenance??
Will you get a better shooting results if you change the sear??
Or, you just want to change the sear because you only feel this will be better!!
You need to have positive indentifications before you will do so. Otherwise you will waste a lot of time and money without any better results.
Before you want to change a sear mechanism there are some following questions also:
1. Does the trigger pulling feel sluggish?? If yes, then have you clean it?? Yes or no?? If yes, was that proper?? Is there any sluggish feeling when you pull the trigger???
2. I have been using the guns for so long time. For how long?? Have you clean it right way??
3. Will the changing make the shooting better, and why??
Guide line for proper maintenace of this pistol. Since the trigger unit is fixed and cannot be cleaned outside, so you must use agent or spray(for gun cleaning purpose only) to spray out all the deposit. After you can see the agent or oil came out clear, then stop. You have to get rid of the exceed oil or agent, then dry the part by using clean small piece of cloth. Do not leave any tiny piece inside! Use clean air(from a compressure that has filter unit or air from your refill tank) blow inside until you are sure that inside is real clean. After you are sure that the mechanism is dry and clean you can put some graphite (or some sear oil like breakfree or some special grease or........) on the mechanism. Each sear lubricating agent will have difference characteristic with the sear mechanism (the feeling of trigger pull can be a bit diff). For me I like graphite because it will last longer and would take less dirty deposit.
If a proper sear mechanism maintenance is not work, and you really need to change the sear please be careful when you are taking out the mechanism. Do not use excess force to punch any pin out. Only normal knocking force with small plastic or PV hammer head will do the job. On the otherside use a block of wood to avoid any scar to occure. After you get all the mechanism out you can look if the sear has scratch mark on it or not (normally yes for sluggish trigger). The scratch mark can be polished out by using sear stone and/or very fine sand paper and/or polish by using metal polish agent on a piece of leather. With proper shaping of sear engaging surface you do not need to buy a new sear!!! After you put back all the parts do not forget the lubrication of the mechanism as I told you.
In case you decide to take out the mechanism, and having some problem. Please drop me a mail.
Sam
allarm-at-hotmail.com.48166.48098
-
Mark
Re: Pardini SP gunsmithing question
I'm interested for a couple reasons:
1. Just for the sake of learning.
2. Because I've converted my SP to a single stage trigger by dialing out the second stage and reducing sear engagement. According to Don Nygord, this might result in premature sear wear and/or chipping of the sear surface. I love the way my trigger feels now (pretty crisp, VERY short travel) and I'm willing to accept accelerated sear wear provided it doesn't cost me a small fortune and is something I can replace myself (every time I ship it gun, it costs about $100 for shipping and FFL fees alone!)
So, I'm wondering how much a spare sear costs from Nygord (and anyone else if they sell them cheaper!) and how to replace it just in case I need to.
: Dear Mark,
: Why do you want to change the sear??
: How long have you been using the gun??
: Was the gun has been subjected to proper maintenance??
: Will you get a better shooting results if you change the sear??
: Or, you just want to change the sear because you only feel this will be better!!
: You need to have positive indentifications before you will do so. Otherwise you will waste a lot of time and money without any better results.
: Before you want to change a sear mechanism there are some following questions also:
: 1. Does the trigger pulling feel sluggish?? If yes, then have you clean it?? Yes or no?? If yes, was that proper?? Is there any sluggish feeling when you pull the trigger???
: 2. I have been using the guns for so long time. For how long?? Have you clean it right way??
: 3. Will the changing make the shooting better, and why??
: Guide line for proper maintenace of this pistol. Since the trigger unit is fixed and cannot be cleaned outside, so you must use agent or spray(for gun cleaning purpose only) to spray out all the deposit. After you can see the agent or oil came out clear, then stop. You have to get rid of the exceed oil or agent, then dry the part by using clean small piece of cloth. Do not leave any tiny piece inside! Use clean air(from a compressure that has filter unit or air from your refill tank) blow inside until you are sure that inside is real clean. After you are sure that the mechanism is dry and clean you can put some graphite (or some sear oil like breakfree or some special grease or........) on the mechanism. Each sear lubricating agent will have difference characteristic with the sear mechanism (the feeling of trigger pull can be a bit diff). For me I like graphite because it will last longer and would take less dirty deposit.
: If a proper sear mechanism maintenance is not work, and you really need to change the sear please be careful when you are taking out the mechanism. Do not use excess force to punch any pin out. Only normal knocking force with small plastic or PV hammer head will do the job. On the otherside use a block of wood to avoid any scar to occure. After you get all the mechanism out you can look if the sear has scratch mark on it or not (normally yes for sluggish trigger). The scratch mark can be polished out by using sear stone and/or very fine sand paper and/or polish by using metal polish agent on a piece of leather. With proper shaping of sear engaging surface you do not need to buy a new sear!!! After you put back all the parts do not forget the lubrication of the mechanism as I told you.
: In case you decide to take out the mechanism, and having some problem. Please drop me a mail.
: Sam
.48194.48166
1. Just for the sake of learning.
2. Because I've converted my SP to a single stage trigger by dialing out the second stage and reducing sear engagement. According to Don Nygord, this might result in premature sear wear and/or chipping of the sear surface. I love the way my trigger feels now (pretty crisp, VERY short travel) and I'm willing to accept accelerated sear wear provided it doesn't cost me a small fortune and is something I can replace myself (every time I ship it gun, it costs about $100 for shipping and FFL fees alone!)
So, I'm wondering how much a spare sear costs from Nygord (and anyone else if they sell them cheaper!) and how to replace it just in case I need to.
: Dear Mark,
: Why do you want to change the sear??
: How long have you been using the gun??
: Was the gun has been subjected to proper maintenance??
: Will you get a better shooting results if you change the sear??
: Or, you just want to change the sear because you only feel this will be better!!
: You need to have positive indentifications before you will do so. Otherwise you will waste a lot of time and money without any better results.
: Before you want to change a sear mechanism there are some following questions also:
: 1. Does the trigger pulling feel sluggish?? If yes, then have you clean it?? Yes or no?? If yes, was that proper?? Is there any sluggish feeling when you pull the trigger???
: 2. I have been using the guns for so long time. For how long?? Have you clean it right way??
: 3. Will the changing make the shooting better, and why??
: Guide line for proper maintenace of this pistol. Since the trigger unit is fixed and cannot be cleaned outside, so you must use agent or spray(for gun cleaning purpose only) to spray out all the deposit. After you can see the agent or oil came out clear, then stop. You have to get rid of the exceed oil or agent, then dry the part by using clean small piece of cloth. Do not leave any tiny piece inside! Use clean air(from a compressure that has filter unit or air from your refill tank) blow inside until you are sure that inside is real clean. After you are sure that the mechanism is dry and clean you can put some graphite (or some sear oil like breakfree or some special grease or........) on the mechanism. Each sear lubricating agent will have difference characteristic with the sear mechanism (the feeling of trigger pull can be a bit diff). For me I like graphite because it will last longer and would take less dirty deposit.
: If a proper sear mechanism maintenance is not work, and you really need to change the sear please be careful when you are taking out the mechanism. Do not use excess force to punch any pin out. Only normal knocking force with small plastic or PV hammer head will do the job. On the otherside use a block of wood to avoid any scar to occure. After you get all the mechanism out you can look if the sear has scratch mark on it or not (normally yes for sluggish trigger). The scratch mark can be polished out by using sear stone and/or very fine sand paper and/or polish by using metal polish agent on a piece of leather. With proper shaping of sear engaging surface you do not need to buy a new sear!!! After you put back all the parts do not forget the lubrication of the mechanism as I told you.
: In case you decide to take out the mechanism, and having some problem. Please drop me a mail.
: Sam
.48194.48166
-
Sam
Re: Pardini SP gunsmithing question
Dear Mark,
Ok I got your point now.
The parts you mention should consist of "Leva Disconnettore" or the disconecting lever and "disconnettore" or the disconector. Both cost about 25EURO per set.
This price should not cost you a fortune.
Please drop me a mail in case you need further help or knowledge. I might need your help some other time.
Sam
: I'm interested for a couple reasons:
: 1. Just for the sake of learning.
: 2. Because I've converted my SP to a single stage trigger by dialing out the second stage and reducing sear engagement. According to Don Nygord, this might result in premature sear wear and/or chipping of the sear surface. I love the way my trigger feels now (pretty crisp, VERY short travel) and I'm willing to accept accelerated sear wear provided it doesn't cost me a small fortune and is something I can replace myself (every time I ship it gun, it costs about $100 for shipping and FFL fees alone!)
: So, I'm wondering how much a spare sear costs from Nygord (and anyone else if they sell them cheaper!) and how to replace it just in case I need to.
: : Dear Mark,
: : Why do you want to change the sear??
: : How long have you been using the gun??
: : Was the gun has been subjected to proper maintenance??
: : Will you get a better shooting results if you change the sear??
: : Or, you just want to change the sear because you only feel this will be better!!
: : You need to have positive indentifications before you will do so. Otherwise you will waste a lot of time and money without any better results.
: : Before you want to change a sear mechanism there are some following questions also:
: : 1. Does the trigger pulling feel sluggish?? If yes, then have you clean it?? Yes or no?? If yes, was that proper?? Is there any sluggish feeling when you pull the trigger???
: : 2. I have been using the guns for so long time. For how long?? Have you clean it right way??
: : 3. Will the changing make the shooting better, and why??
: : Guide line for proper maintenace of this pistol. Since the trigger unit is fixed and cannot be cleaned outside, so you must use agent or spray(for gun cleaning purpose only) to spray out all the deposit. After you can see the agent or oil came out clear, then stop. You have to get rid of the exceed oil or agent, then dry the part by using clean small piece of cloth. Do not leave any tiny piece inside! Use clean air(from a compressure that has filter unit or air from your refill tank) blow inside until you are sure that inside is real clean. After you are sure that the mechanism is dry and clean you can put some graphite (or some sear oil like breakfree or some special grease or........) on the mechanism. Each sear lubricating agent will have difference characteristic with the sear mechanism (the feeling of trigger pull can be a bit diff). For me I like graphite because it will last longer and would take less dirty deposit.
: : If a proper sear mechanism maintenance is not work, and you really need to change the sear please be careful when you are taking out the mechanism. Do not use excess force to punch any pin out. Only normal knocking force with small plastic or PV hammer head will do the job. On the otherside use a block of wood to avoid any scar to occure. After you get all the mechanism out you can look if the sear has scratch mark on it or not (normally yes for sluggish trigger). The scratch mark can be polished out by using sear stone and/or very fine sand paper and/or polish by using metal polish agent on a piece of leather. With proper shaping of sear engaging surface you do not need to buy a new sear!!! After you put back all the parts do not forget the lubrication of the mechanism as I told you.
: : In case you decide to take out the mechanism, and having some problem. Please drop me a mail.
: : Sam
allarm-at-hotmail.com.48217.48194
Ok I got your point now.
The parts you mention should consist of "Leva Disconnettore" or the disconecting lever and "disconnettore" or the disconector. Both cost about 25EURO per set.
This price should not cost you a fortune.
Please drop me a mail in case you need further help or knowledge. I might need your help some other time.
Sam
: I'm interested for a couple reasons:
: 1. Just for the sake of learning.
: 2. Because I've converted my SP to a single stage trigger by dialing out the second stage and reducing sear engagement. According to Don Nygord, this might result in premature sear wear and/or chipping of the sear surface. I love the way my trigger feels now (pretty crisp, VERY short travel) and I'm willing to accept accelerated sear wear provided it doesn't cost me a small fortune and is something I can replace myself (every time I ship it gun, it costs about $100 for shipping and FFL fees alone!)
: So, I'm wondering how much a spare sear costs from Nygord (and anyone else if they sell them cheaper!) and how to replace it just in case I need to.
: : Dear Mark,
: : Why do you want to change the sear??
: : How long have you been using the gun??
: : Was the gun has been subjected to proper maintenance??
: : Will you get a better shooting results if you change the sear??
: : Or, you just want to change the sear because you only feel this will be better!!
: : You need to have positive indentifications before you will do so. Otherwise you will waste a lot of time and money without any better results.
: : Before you want to change a sear mechanism there are some following questions also:
: : 1. Does the trigger pulling feel sluggish?? If yes, then have you clean it?? Yes or no?? If yes, was that proper?? Is there any sluggish feeling when you pull the trigger???
: : 2. I have been using the guns for so long time. For how long?? Have you clean it right way??
: : 3. Will the changing make the shooting better, and why??
: : Guide line for proper maintenace of this pistol. Since the trigger unit is fixed and cannot be cleaned outside, so you must use agent or spray(for gun cleaning purpose only) to spray out all the deposit. After you can see the agent or oil came out clear, then stop. You have to get rid of the exceed oil or agent, then dry the part by using clean small piece of cloth. Do not leave any tiny piece inside! Use clean air(from a compressure that has filter unit or air from your refill tank) blow inside until you are sure that inside is real clean. After you are sure that the mechanism is dry and clean you can put some graphite (or some sear oil like breakfree or some special grease or........) on the mechanism. Each sear lubricating agent will have difference characteristic with the sear mechanism (the feeling of trigger pull can be a bit diff). For me I like graphite because it will last longer and would take less dirty deposit.
: : If a proper sear mechanism maintenance is not work, and you really need to change the sear please be careful when you are taking out the mechanism. Do not use excess force to punch any pin out. Only normal knocking force with small plastic or PV hammer head will do the job. On the otherside use a block of wood to avoid any scar to occure. After you get all the mechanism out you can look if the sear has scratch mark on it or not (normally yes for sluggish trigger). The scratch mark can be polished out by using sear stone and/or very fine sand paper and/or polish by using metal polish agent on a piece of leather. With proper shaping of sear engaging surface you do not need to buy a new sear!!! After you put back all the parts do not forget the lubrication of the mechanism as I told you.
: : In case you decide to take out the mechanism, and having some problem. Please drop me a mail.
: : Sam
allarm-at-hotmail.com.48217.48194
-
Mark
Re: Pardini SP gunsmithing question
Thanks for the info! I'm relieved to know it won't cost me that much. Let me know if there is ever anything I can do to help you.
:
: Dear Mark,
: Ok I got your point now.
: The parts you mention should consist of "Leva Disconnettore" or the disconecting lever and "disconnettore" or the disconector. Both cost about 25EURO per set.
: This price should not cost you a fortune.
: Please drop me a mail in case you need further help or knowledge. I might need your help some other time.
.48279.48217
:
: Dear Mark,
: Ok I got your point now.
: The parts you mention should consist of "Leva Disconnettore" or the disconecting lever and "disconnettore" or the disconector. Both cost about 25EURO per set.
: This price should not cost you a fortune.
: Please drop me a mail in case you need further help or knowledge. I might need your help some other time.
.48279.48217