[FIXED] TOZ-35 won't cock, #15 "middle lever spring" is broken

[Redchrome]

When doing my dry practice, I found that my TOZ-35 stopped cocking. I could no longer set the trigger using the sidelever.
After disassembling the pistol I found that a tiny little flat spring was broken in half. It seems to be #15, the "middle lever spring" on page 4 of this manual:

https://archive.org/details/gunmanual_V ... 3/mode/2up

I have a grasp of how the mechanism seems to work, but what I don't get is why (if?) this spring being broken would cause the trigger cocking mechanism to not set. It seems that this spring helps the #9 "small lever" release the #16 "accellerator striker", and its failure should make it *harder* for the mechanism to release.

So that makes me worry that I've got worn engagement surfaces on the 'sear' between part #9 and #16. If that's the case I would rather have a competent 'smith look at this thing. I know enough about sears to know I shouldn't go fiddling with engagement surfaces like this unless I have experience with the exact parts in question or a really good guide, and I have neither.

Does anyone have experience with this spring breaking? I tried looking for a spare on Larry's Guns and didn't immediately see one there. Does anyone have a spare spring, or am I going to be whittling one out of a paperclip?

[spektr]

The best references to the Toz 35 are found Igors Blog.... In the archives are complete, down to the last little part disassembly sequential photos and a lot of explanation of all the motions.....

http://toz35.blogspot.com/


Enjoy

[Rover]

" I tried looking for a spare on Larry's Guns and didn't immediately see one there. Does anyone have a spare spring, or am I going to be whittling one out of a paperclip?"

Larry's Guns is kaput. In my experience, a bent small paper clip is far superior to the crap Russian springs.

[Redchrome]

The best references to the Toz 35 are found Igors Blog.... In the archives are complete, down to the last little part disassembly sequential photos and a lot of explanation of all the motions.....

http://toz35.blogspot.com/


Enjoy

Thanks spektr, it's been a lot of years since I looked at that blog. I found a blog post which (in a roundabout way) hinted at how the 'middle lever' works and why that spring is needed for proper function.

http://toz35.blogspot.com/2013/12/toz-3 ... oblem.html

I think this is the part I need:
https://www.larrysguns.com/Products/Spr ... TZ-12.aspx

But I may try making one. Finding drills and files in my toolbox which are small enough may be a problem, and I hope I don't have to draw-file it too much.

[Gwhite]

All of Larry's Guns parts & such were purchased by Jim Henderson at Cardinal Shooting Center in Ohio. Jim is still digging through all the parts (which were not exactly well organized & labeled). He is selling them under "Red Feather Outfitters". In fact, if you go to LGI's web site, it now mentions Red Feather, and the phone number listed (419-560-6030) will get you to Jim. The web site isn't set up for on-line sales, but Jim can take PayPal.

Unless you are very lucky, it may take Jim a while to find the part you need, but there is a chance he can locate it quickly.

[Sa-tevo]

Go to https://www.larrysguns.com/ first and read all ordering instructions.

Then go to https://www.larrysguns.com/Departments/ ... BFont.aspx and look for the TOZ parts you need.

Jim also has sear springs in stock. There is a very good laminated TOZ-35 poster available that has many illustrations. I would select the poster in English,

[Redchrome]

Thanks a lot for the advice. I'm unemployed right now and probably don't need another poster in my life (tho I can read enough Russian to be interested in the original Russian poster), but I really appreciate the pointer to it!

https://www.larrysguns.com/Products/WAL ... OZ-WP.aspx

[pbrejsa]

The easiest solution - make yourself a piece of tape measure. The service life of the original planchet-spring #15 is usually about 10 thousand (upto 30, if you are lucky) clicks. Be careful during reassembly, in case of incorrect assembly there is a risk of breaking the fork of part #9 (small lever), this makes the repair much more difficult. Hi

[Redchrome]

Thanks @pbrejsa, I don't have a tape measure I'm willing to sacrifice to the cause, but I've got a ton of little sheet metal paperclips so I'm going to see if I can do something with one of them. If nothing else it'll be a learning experience!

[pbrejsa]

No, wire of paper clips is suitable to use for #70 sear spring. Yes, it's possible to use metal sheet from binder clip. The thickness about 0,2 mm.
https://www.google.com/search?q=binder+ ... WpGCTHGokM:

[Redchrome]

I've already replaced my sear spring long ago with a paperclip - which is still fine today!

I don't see that I can replace the middle lever spring with a paperclip tho - I need a wider spring so it doesn't fall off the lever.

[pbrejsa]

It might be possible to make a spring from wire, but it must have the middle lever spring hardness of about 45 - 48 HRC, a standard office wire clip has a much lower hardness. This spring should also have great flexibility, ie low stiffness such as a flat strip. The round cross section is not very suitable.

[Redchrome]

In case anyone comes across this thread in the future, I did manufacture a new spring out of a flat steel paperclip.

I got partway through the process before realizing I should take pictures to document it. So here's a few of the nearly-finished part.

I measured the broken pieces of the original and drew out a (very rough) diagram

Took a couple of paint stirrers (nearest thin pieces of wood) and clamped them in my vise one against the other.

I clipped the paperclip over both of them, and attempted to drill through it. I then found my tiny drill bits were utter garbage and had the stiffness of a piece of spaghetti. (They actually unwound the spiral flutes, that's how bad the temper was). So I just drove a nail through the paperclip to punch the necessary hole. Clamping the nail between the pieces of wood held it firmly in place while I used the dremel and a cutoff wheel to cut away everything which wasn't in the rough shape of the spring I needed.

I then used files to remove everything else until I got to the shape I needed.

The spring does seem to work! Haven't done a live fire test yet, but it seems to work in dry fire.

[rmca]

Redchrome,

A repair done in true soviet spirit.
You have made all mother Russia gunsmiths very proud! ;)

Good work on the repair!

[Redchrome]

Спасбо болшои! (Thanks a lot!)

[Gwhite]

One trick you can try for drilling through thin spring steel is to "spot anneal" the place you want the hole. Cut a nail about the size of the hole so it has a flat end, and then use a drill press at high speed & high pressure to heat up the metal with friction. As long as you have a reasonably beefy drill press, you can get the metal red hot right where you need to drill. Let it cool slowly, and even a cheap "Chinesium" drill bit should work.

[pbrejsa]

I use a hammer, a 1.5 mm hard rod and a piece of hardwood to make this spring. The jaws of the vice are covered with copper or aluminum sheet. I will adjust the cut diameter to 2 mm with a Swiss needle round file. I work the outer shape of the spring with scissors and a fine file. The raw material for the spring is a tape from a tape measure. It is good to always have this spare spring with you. This spring can crack at any time at the older TOZ35.

[Redchrome]

One trick you can try for drilling through thin spring steel is to "spot anneal" the place you want the hole. Cut a nail about the size of the hole so it has a flat end, and then use a drill press at high speed & high pressure to heat up the metal with friction. As long as you have a reasonably beefy drill press, you can get the metal red hot right where you need to drill. Let it cool slowly, and even a cheap "Chinesium" drill bit should work.

Thanks for the advice, that's a pretty good tip. Sadly, I don't have a drill press. (One of these days I'll get one, the lack of one occasionally bugs me.)

[Redchrome]

I use a hammer, a 1.5 mm hard rod and a piece of hardwood to make this spring. The jaws of the vice are covered with copper or aluminum sheet. I will adjust the cut diameter to 2 mm with a Swiss needle round file. I work the outer shape of the spring with scissors and a fine file. The raw material for the spring is a tape from a tape measure. It is good to always have this spare spring with you. This spring can crack at any time at the older TOZ35.

Thanks! I did consider using a tape measure for this, but mine are all in good condition and I didn't want to ruin one. However, I found the flat steel paperclip material is just perfect and I have dozens of extras of those.

[T Ibbotson]

Hi All,

Part #15 as discussed above has fallen out my pistol whilst cleaning!

I have checked exploded view in manual, however it is unclear where this part belongs in the Toz

Could anyone offer me some guidance or a pic of part installed please?

Thanks in Advance