fwb p30 problem

[stalil]

Hello everybody.
I bought recently a FWB P30 pcp pistol and I am facing the following problem. When I press the trigger very slowly, the trigger reaches the end of its travel and doesn't fire. I have to re-cock (althought it is cocked). If I pull the trigger in a more lively manner(more quickly) the pistol will shoot normally. Any idea what is the cause of the problem?
I have dismantled the pistol, cleaned it properly and the problem persists.

[Azmodan]

have you played with the trigger adjustment screws?
on my fwb 100 (they seem to have the same mechanism) if i tighten the trigger weight screw too much, something similar happens.

also, after you dismantled and cleaned the pistol, did you lube it? i found out that the trigger sear and striker need to be lubed to work properly (with fwb paste)

[rmca]

Start with the obvious,

Is the trigger stop too tight?

Unscrew the first certical screw behind the trigger half a turn.
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spfwbp30.htm

Hope this helps.

[stalil]

Thanks for your replies gentlemen. Yes, I have played with all of the adjusting screws and yes after dismantling I lubricated the parts very lightly with sae10 motor oil. The problem remains. I also downloaded the relevant manual from the fwb site so that I know the use of each screw. When I first got the gun, I was pulling the trigger in a rather rough manner and had no problem. But as I gradually improved the way I pull the trigger and started feeling the first stage and the point where the trigger brakes, then it wouldn't go off. If I pull quickly no problem.

[pbrejsa]

If all parts are OK and you understand the function of the trigger mechanism, it should not be a problem. Be careful. The air gun is not an internal combustion engine. Use kerosene for cleaning. Thoroughly clean everything again of residual oil and grease and visually inspect. For lubrication, use the grease intended for this purpose or kerosene, or watchmaking oil on the tip of the sewing needle. Apply a small amount of grease to the trigger tooth (the sear surface). That is all. Adjust according to the instructions.

[David M]

Sounds like after your fiddle the trigger needs a full reset starting from scratch.

[Rover]

OMG!!! You may have turned the forbidden "Do Not Turn" screw: you know, the one marked with red that the instruction clearly warn against.

The Airgun Police will soon be there to flail you with their capitalistic truncheons.

[Gwhite]

Thanks for your replies gentlemen. Yes, I have played with all of the adjusting screws and yes after dismantling I lubricated the parts very lightly with sae10 motor oil. The problem remains. I also downloaded the relevant manual from the fwb site so that I know the use of each screw. When I first got the gun, I was pulling the trigger in a rather rough manner and had no problem. But as I gradually improved the way I pull the trigger and started feeling the first stage and the point where the trigger brakes, then it wouldn't go off. If I pull quickly no problem.

That sounds like a classic case of "chicken finger". Your brain is sending conflicting commands to the muscles that move your finger, and they end up fighting each other. It FEELS like the trigger won't go off, but what's happening is that the "flexor" muscles that normally pull the trigger are being counteracted by the "extensor" muscles that work to move the finger away from the trigger. I've seen extreme cases where the shooter thinks they are pulling the trigger, while in fact, their extensor muscles have won, and their finger has moved FORWARD. A 500 gram trigger can feel like it's suddenly a couple kilograms. It just means your extensor muscles are adding all that extra force in opposition to your normal trigger pull.

The key is that it fires just fine when you pull quickly. You aren't hesitating and trying to fire the shot when everything is just right.

You have to commit to the shot mentally (the way you do when you pull quickly), and not try to make it too perfect. Lots of dry firing will help. It can also help to think about an action that will result in the shot being fired, as opposed to thinking about firing the shot. The distinction is subtle, but very important. As long as you think about (and execute) smoothly and continuously increasing the pressure on the trigger, or smoothly and continuously moving the trigger to the rear, it WILL fire. Accept your "hold" (wobble), and work on smooth release that doesn't add additional motion to your natural hold.

[stalil]

Gwhite, thanks for the analysis. It's good to know that this psychological state/explanation exists. But I think that this was not the case.
However, I was able to repeat the problem while holding the pistol with my left hand and squeezing the trigger with my right hand. The smooth and slow pull wouldn't let the trigger go off. A sudden pull fired properly.
I dismantled the pistol once again, wiped everything with a clean cotton rug and re-assembled without any trace of oil. I thought that maybe the type of oil was not appropriate.
I observed the function of the various parts of the trigger, adjusted them to the most reasonable position and finally found out that the fourth screw behind the trigger, the sear weight screw, has to be adjusted very precisely within a very narrow range (almost in a very specific position) in order for the trigger to work properly. Now it is working.
I don't know if the specific mechanism has a defect or it is normal. It's the first time i dismantle a match fwb trigger and I am not a professional. I still can't believe that such a precise adjustment is necessary.

[-TT-]

My FWB AW93 pistol has this issue if you try to remove the trigger "slack" too much. If you reduce the travel too much, the sear does not release. There are five adjustments, and they interact together in subtle ways. With patience, you can achieve quite a wide range of settings however. It does take a lot of experimentation.