Hand falling asleep
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
Hand falling asleep
In search of help. My left hand (support hand) is falling asleep about 5 to 10 minutes into getting into the prone position. I used to shoot prone in my childhood but now getting back at it in my mid 40's. With that said, I'm sure I'm doing something wrong but truthfully dont know what? Anyone out there that might have some ideas? Dont remember this being an issue when I was young. Although now in my 40's have plenty of issues I didnt have as a child lol. Anyhow, hoping for some insight. Thanks
Re: Hand falling asleep
You probably have the forestock in the palm of your hand. This twists the wrist, with the accompanying tingling.
Slide your hand more underneath the foerestock, so it lays on the meaty base of your thumb. Might have to adjust the sling length slightly.
Slide your hand more underneath the foerestock, so it lays on the meaty base of your thumb. Might have to adjust the sling length slightly.
Re: Hand falling asleep
Thank you so much. I will definitely give this a try.
Re: Hand falling asleep
when I started shooting smallbore,12 years ago, the same thing happened. A doctor told me I had carpel tunnel syndrome and would need surgery. began doing hand strengthening exercises with a tennis ball and that helped a lot. never did have surgery. went to a licensed medical massage therapist and she said I had a problem with a muscle or nerve (?) in the top part of posterior left side back. she worked on it for awhile and that took care of the problem for a few years !! go figure.
Also vitamin B6 is supposed to help with this.
I tried different hand stops and found one that really helped, but it was "trial and error" to find it. different hand stops have different angles, different "widths," and different heights, so you have to find what works for you (more trial and error). also, there is a handstop which is only 3/8 inch high, so that's something you might want to look at.
another thing to consider is the "width" of the stock where your left hand goes. some stocks are wide at the bottom while others are "thin"... again, you need to find what works for you.
this is all I can think of, best of luck to you.
Also vitamin B6 is supposed to help with this.
I tried different hand stops and found one that really helped, but it was "trial and error" to find it. different hand stops have different angles, different "widths," and different heights, so you have to find what works for you (more trial and error). also, there is a handstop which is only 3/8 inch high, so that's something you might want to look at.
another thing to consider is the "width" of the stock where your left hand goes. some stocks are wide at the bottom while others are "thin"... again, you need to find what works for you.
this is all I can think of, best of luck to you.
Hammer to shape, file to fit, paint to match...
Re: Hand falling asleep
To add to the replies above, the position of your hand and the size and shape of the handstop matter. Your hand is trapped between the heavy rifle and the sling, so a little discomfort is normal during a long match, but pain is not good. I'd think of:
1) Glove, what do you use? Is it a purpose made shooting glove? IMO ski gloves and leather work gloves don't offer enough protection for a heavy target rifle. Do you need a new one? An old or worn shooting glove may not cushion your hand enough. I prefer a hard rubber coating that goes over my wrist, thanks to a broken scaphoid: currently using a Monard Pro liner, and Kurt Thune Solids before that. I think the stiff coating distributes the pressures of the stock and sling better than a softer grippy coating. Perhaps that would work for you. It's something to consider if you are replacing a glove anyway.
2) Sling, how tight is the cuff around your arm? If it's snug, you can cut blood circulation to your hand, and often transmit a pulse to the sling. Try opening the cuff to leave at least three fingers space at the front. The brachial artery and nerve plexus run down the inside of the arm. Turning the sling so it pulls symmetrically against the back of the arm will avoid pressure on this area, which is good for circulation and not seeing a pulse. Pulling from the outside is common, but disturbs my jacket, so I don't like it. Self-centring slings like the MEC, Truttmann, and Jensen give a symmetrical pull automatically. Don't forget the strap, does this lie over the wrist (just under the wrist knuckle) and by the thumb, or higher over your palm? If it's high over the palm, it could be squashing the metacarpals, which don't have much meat over the back. Plastic slings, though great for not stretching, can bite more than leather. Try winding the strap a little lower, which may require tweaking the length.
3) Sling tension, is the sling taut, and pulling the rifle into your shoulder? If the butt is loose, the hand takes the full weight of the rifle. This is uncomfortable, and not good for recoil management, as the rifle tends to bounce. Adjusting the sling and handstop to get the butt tight enough will often cure this. If you have a sling keeper on your jacket, make sure the sling isn't pulling down in position, and that the jacket isn't slipping down your shoulder. These can both decrease sling tension.
4) Handstop, are you using a very large stop? Older rifles often have quite large stops. If you have hands like bear paws that's OK, but if you don't, the stop may splay out your hand uncomfortably. As 40X Guy suggests, the right size is important. Today most stops are rounded 1in to 1-1/2in diameter. Personally I like a stop deep enough that the bottom edge doesn't pinch my hand. The depth/height of the sling connection also affects the pressure on the back of your hand; for me a taller connection (sticking down further from the rifle) reduces pressure. A low connection well ahead of the stock was really painful.
5) Hand position, lots of shooters, even very successful ones bend the wrist sideways to get the handstop into the V by the thumb. This puts the stock over your palm, where there are lots of little bones and not always much meat. If your hand hurts try to straighten your wrist as Pat says, so the rifle bears on the heel. This also brings the rifle over your arm and elbow (straight arm remember) helping to balance the weight. Now, most rifles have the handstop rail directly under the barrel, which isn't always ideal; I think it's a holdover from large angled stops. With a central rail, either the stop bears near the knuckle of your index finger, or the rifle sits on your thumb. I find having the stop to the left (RH shooter) is best; it gives a straight wrist, and puts the rifle onto the heel. Some older handstops, i.e. the Freeland, are offset a bit, and modern stops have inbuilt sideways adjustment (Anschutz 4751+4752, MEC, Gehmann 852, System Gemini). It's also possible to move the rail in the stock.
6) Stock shape, 40X Guy mentioned this. Is the stock digging into your thumb or palm? A square stock (e.g. Anschutz 1813) or a very wide one (e.g. BSA Mk 2) isn't always comfortable for medium/small hands; the 1813 can be quite painful with a heavy can't. Do you need to round off any edges or reduce the width? A basic functional job isn't hard. A straight stock can also bend your hand back too much. I know of shooters who made wedges from wood or epoxy, to go behind the handstop. These kept the wrist straight, and put the weight on the heel; having the rifle bear on the top of the palm often hurts, which it can if the wrist is straight.
7) rifle balance, is the rifle well balanced, and does your supporting hand reach to/beyond the Point of Balance (PoB)? For most modern rifles this is just ahead of the receiver. Most adults don't have a problem reaching to/past the PoB, although juniors and smaller women can. However, I've seen shooters lie too straight, or have the butt way too long, so their left hand is very close to the triggerguard. That leaves the barrel waggling out. Having so much of the weight of the rifle puts much more pressure on your left hand. It's also not good for a stable aim or consistent recoil. Some shooters can manage this (often with a pretty tight sling), but not all.
1) Glove, what do you use? Is it a purpose made shooting glove? IMO ski gloves and leather work gloves don't offer enough protection for a heavy target rifle. Do you need a new one? An old or worn shooting glove may not cushion your hand enough. I prefer a hard rubber coating that goes over my wrist, thanks to a broken scaphoid: currently using a Monard Pro liner, and Kurt Thune Solids before that. I think the stiff coating distributes the pressures of the stock and sling better than a softer grippy coating. Perhaps that would work for you. It's something to consider if you are replacing a glove anyway.
2) Sling, how tight is the cuff around your arm? If it's snug, you can cut blood circulation to your hand, and often transmit a pulse to the sling. Try opening the cuff to leave at least three fingers space at the front. The brachial artery and nerve plexus run down the inside of the arm. Turning the sling so it pulls symmetrically against the back of the arm will avoid pressure on this area, which is good for circulation and not seeing a pulse. Pulling from the outside is common, but disturbs my jacket, so I don't like it. Self-centring slings like the MEC, Truttmann, and Jensen give a symmetrical pull automatically. Don't forget the strap, does this lie over the wrist (just under the wrist knuckle) and by the thumb, or higher over your palm? If it's high over the palm, it could be squashing the metacarpals, which don't have much meat over the back. Plastic slings, though great for not stretching, can bite more than leather. Try winding the strap a little lower, which may require tweaking the length.
3) Sling tension, is the sling taut, and pulling the rifle into your shoulder? If the butt is loose, the hand takes the full weight of the rifle. This is uncomfortable, and not good for recoil management, as the rifle tends to bounce. Adjusting the sling and handstop to get the butt tight enough will often cure this. If you have a sling keeper on your jacket, make sure the sling isn't pulling down in position, and that the jacket isn't slipping down your shoulder. These can both decrease sling tension.
4) Handstop, are you using a very large stop? Older rifles often have quite large stops. If you have hands like bear paws that's OK, but if you don't, the stop may splay out your hand uncomfortably. As 40X Guy suggests, the right size is important. Today most stops are rounded 1in to 1-1/2in diameter. Personally I like a stop deep enough that the bottom edge doesn't pinch my hand. The depth/height of the sling connection also affects the pressure on the back of your hand; for me a taller connection (sticking down further from the rifle) reduces pressure. A low connection well ahead of the stock was really painful.
5) Hand position, lots of shooters, even very successful ones bend the wrist sideways to get the handstop into the V by the thumb. This puts the stock over your palm, where there are lots of little bones and not always much meat. If your hand hurts try to straighten your wrist as Pat says, so the rifle bears on the heel. This also brings the rifle over your arm and elbow (straight arm remember) helping to balance the weight. Now, most rifles have the handstop rail directly under the barrel, which isn't always ideal; I think it's a holdover from large angled stops. With a central rail, either the stop bears near the knuckle of your index finger, or the rifle sits on your thumb. I find having the stop to the left (RH shooter) is best; it gives a straight wrist, and puts the rifle onto the heel. Some older handstops, i.e. the Freeland, are offset a bit, and modern stops have inbuilt sideways adjustment (Anschutz 4751+4752, MEC, Gehmann 852, System Gemini). It's also possible to move the rail in the stock.
6) Stock shape, 40X Guy mentioned this. Is the stock digging into your thumb or palm? A square stock (e.g. Anschutz 1813) or a very wide one (e.g. BSA Mk 2) isn't always comfortable for medium/small hands; the 1813 can be quite painful with a heavy can't. Do you need to round off any edges or reduce the width? A basic functional job isn't hard. A straight stock can also bend your hand back too much. I know of shooters who made wedges from wood or epoxy, to go behind the handstop. These kept the wrist straight, and put the weight on the heel; having the rifle bear on the top of the palm often hurts, which it can if the wrist is straight.
7) rifle balance, is the rifle well balanced, and does your supporting hand reach to/beyond the Point of Balance (PoB)? For most modern rifles this is just ahead of the receiver. Most adults don't have a problem reaching to/past the PoB, although juniors and smaller women can. However, I've seen shooters lie too straight, or have the butt way too long, so their left hand is very close to the triggerguard. That leaves the barrel waggling out. Having so much of the weight of the rifle puts much more pressure on your left hand. It's also not good for a stable aim or consistent recoil. Some shooters can manage this (often with a pretty tight sling), but not all.
Re: Hand falling asleep
I wanted to really send out a big thank you to those that replied. There is a wealth of information in your responses that I'll have to spend some time giving attention. This may take me some time as I find if I adjust 1 thing suddenly 1 or 2 other things need adjusting.
I have myself an Anschutz 2007/13 supermatch wooden stock from the early 1990's. It has a centra adjustable handstop. I adjusted it over to the left per suggestion. That adjustment seemed to help a little. I bought the rifle used with a used glove. The used glove was pretty "used" and a bit too big for my smaller hands. I'm roughly 5'4" on a good day. So I purchased a brand new Monard Proliner prone glove. According to the websites fitment I was a medium. However after wearing the glove it does seem a bit too tight and perhaps I should have ordered a large. The glove itself is beautiful but seems too tight especially in my ring and pinky fingers when the rifle is being supported.
It was recommended I get a sauer exact IV sling and that is what I'm using. I have to admit I'm a bit confused by it. I know I should be smarter than my equipment but it appears otherwise. The sling has some sort of big metal adjustment part with a screw in it. Whatever this part of the sling is wants to sit/dig into my fingers on the trigger hand or into the grip of the rifle. I'm not sure how to solve this problem?
I can get the rifle to sit on the meat part of my support hand thumb. I had a incident with a german shepherd who decided to bite clean through that hand several years ago which resulted in 2 hand surgeries. Needless to say years later a heavy rifle still isnt the most pleasant thing to have sitting on that muscle and nerves...however I'm determined and will work through it.
I'm not sure if I'm using the sling correctly? I cant say the rifle feels like it's being pulled into my shoulder. It feels like if I get the rifle into my shoulder the sling becomes too tight and then my support hand twists when I go to wrap my hand around it...also putting that little metal adjustment piece further into my shooting hand or rifle grip?
Just out of curiosity is there anyone in the Phoenix area that would be willing to meet up after the virus and offer in person advice? I will continue to reread the above suggestions and try to figure this out. I just have this feeling that it may be a little more complicated than I can do alone.
Thanks again for all the great advice! I will keep trying
I have myself an Anschutz 2007/13 supermatch wooden stock from the early 1990's. It has a centra adjustable handstop. I adjusted it over to the left per suggestion. That adjustment seemed to help a little. I bought the rifle used with a used glove. The used glove was pretty "used" and a bit too big for my smaller hands. I'm roughly 5'4" on a good day. So I purchased a brand new Monard Proliner prone glove. According to the websites fitment I was a medium. However after wearing the glove it does seem a bit too tight and perhaps I should have ordered a large. The glove itself is beautiful but seems too tight especially in my ring and pinky fingers when the rifle is being supported.
It was recommended I get a sauer exact IV sling and that is what I'm using. I have to admit I'm a bit confused by it. I know I should be smarter than my equipment but it appears otherwise. The sling has some sort of big metal adjustment part with a screw in it. Whatever this part of the sling is wants to sit/dig into my fingers on the trigger hand or into the grip of the rifle. I'm not sure how to solve this problem?
I can get the rifle to sit on the meat part of my support hand thumb. I had a incident with a german shepherd who decided to bite clean through that hand several years ago which resulted in 2 hand surgeries. Needless to say years later a heavy rifle still isnt the most pleasant thing to have sitting on that muscle and nerves...however I'm determined and will work through it.
I'm not sure if I'm using the sling correctly? I cant say the rifle feels like it's being pulled into my shoulder. It feels like if I get the rifle into my shoulder the sling becomes too tight and then my support hand twists when I go to wrap my hand around it...also putting that little metal adjustment piece further into my shooting hand or rifle grip?
Just out of curiosity is there anyone in the Phoenix area that would be willing to meet up after the virus and offer in person advice? I will continue to reread the above suggestions and try to figure this out. I just have this feeling that it may be a little more complicated than I can do alone.
Thanks again for all the great advice! I will keep trying
Re: Hand falling asleep
I shoot prone to get my hand all tingly or else I would probably have to do drugs.
Re: Hand falling asleep
It took a lot of experimentation with length of pull and hand stop placement to get my hand to quit hurting.
Re: Hand falling asleep
I'm starting to think this will take a long time too.
Out of curiosity...using the Sauer exact IV sling, should the adjustment wheels go on the outside of my arm or the inside? Currently they're on the inside but like I mentioned they come into contact with the rifle. Thanks
Out of curiosity...using the Sauer exact IV sling, should the adjustment wheels go on the outside of my arm or the inside? Currently they're on the inside but like I mentioned they come into contact with the rifle. Thanks
Re: Hand falling asleep
Thank you, that's useful info. You're welcome to post photos here, although trouble shooting remotely can be tricky. I'm sure many members are open to a PM.
The 2013 stock is a nice shape from memory, not too broad, slightly rounded, and with a slight taper towards the tip. With the MEC handstop, I'd expect a good hand position to be possible. The dog bite won't help and you may need to be a little creative. If the pressure on your thumb is just a matter of stock shape, would you consider shaving the wood to give more room for your thumb? Remember the heel should be under the barrel; if it's on your thumb muscle, the hand is too far under. You don't say if you cant the rifle toward your face this changes the relative position of the barrel.
First things, IME that stock (and most wood-stocked xx13 rifles) was sized for an average height man, so 4-5in taller than you. That's absolutely not to say it's too large, but you don't have the wiggle room that a taller person has; a few years after your rifle, Anschutz made the 1912 and 2012 as a smaller version. Running the butt in as far as possible will let you run the handstop out, which reduces the weight on your hand. A short butt will also make loading easier. Apologies if you've already thought of it. I know of a couple of shooters your size who have removed the LOP adjustment, screwing the buttplate directly onto the wood, to bring the grip and action closer.
As for the glove, I have a size M Proliner. My hands are 8.5in around the palm (I'm 6'1", but work in an office), and the glove is fine. I have found that an oversize glove can crease under the sling, which isn't pleasant; under sling pressure, any creases would form by the ring and pinky finger.
The sling, OK the big metal adjustment piece is a micro-adjuster for tweaking the tension in position. This should be clear of the rifle and your supporting arm - rules and comfort. From memory, the plastic straps are bolted onto the cuff. If you undo the bolts and move the cuff down a few holes, the adjuster will be closer to your bicip, hopefully clear of the rifle/forearm. If the adjuster still touches the rifle try changing the position on your arm. Most prone shooters here in the UK wear the sling high, by the armpit, but you can wear it low, but the elbow. You lose a little leverage, but may clear the rifle. If it still isn't clear, you may have to consider filing the triggerguard/grip, or a different sling.
In terms of position, think about:
Body angle: at 5'4" with a standard size rifle, you may need to lie a little wider than normal to maximise your reach, say 20°-30° instead of 10°-20°. The practical maximum is when the butt doesn't get enough purchase on your shoulder.
Left arm: push the elbow out fully, as far as the sling allows. The arm must be straight, i.e. The arm shoulder and hand are aligned if seen from above. This way the weight of the rifle is balanced. If the elbow is under the rifle, or over to the left, the weight of the rifle will tip the arm over. Do wait until you have position your left arm to shoulder the rifle, you need some slack in the sling to do this.
LOP/Handstop. As above, run the butt in all the way. You don't need to have your trigger hand flat against the stock, and don't have to worry about bolt throw with a 0.22. Position the handstop where you have height on the target and the supporting fore-arm is 30°+.
Sling: start with the sling a bit long, then shorten gradually until the butt is snug in your shoulder and the rifle is steady, even if you take your trigger hand from the grip. Depending on how close spaced the holes are you may need to tweak the handstop slightly or use the micro-adjuster.
Buttplate: I'd probably remove the hook for a bit, and flatten the wings. Raise the plate until you have full contact with your shoulder, height on the target, and the sights are a comfortable height. Then, if needed, adjust sideways, rotate, twist so the plate fits your shoulder securely AND the sights are a comfortable place by your eye. Then add the hook to locate the plate. The angle does matter. Try to seat the butt with your hand, don't just lift up the rifle by the grip. Hold the butt, lift it up and swing it into your shoulder. The shoulder and jacket wrap around the butt this way for a more secure fit.
Rearsight: You may need help your this. Get your head comfortable without the tearsight, then have a helper put the sight on the gun, and slide it back until it's 1-3in from your eye. Seeing a tunnel's breadth gap around the foresight tunnel is common.
Cheekpiece: adjust the height so your eye is level with the centre, with your head resting under it's weight. Adjust sideways/cant so it fits under your cheekbone with enough contact at your cheek for location. Ideally you should be able to drop your head into the cheekpiece with your eyes closed, and be on aim when you open them.
The 2013 stock is a nice shape from memory, not too broad, slightly rounded, and with a slight taper towards the tip. With the MEC handstop, I'd expect a good hand position to be possible. The dog bite won't help and you may need to be a little creative. If the pressure on your thumb is just a matter of stock shape, would you consider shaving the wood to give more room for your thumb? Remember the heel should be under the barrel; if it's on your thumb muscle, the hand is too far under. You don't say if you cant the rifle toward your face this changes the relative position of the barrel.
First things, IME that stock (and most wood-stocked xx13 rifles) was sized for an average height man, so 4-5in taller than you. That's absolutely not to say it's too large, but you don't have the wiggle room that a taller person has; a few years after your rifle, Anschutz made the 1912 and 2012 as a smaller version. Running the butt in as far as possible will let you run the handstop out, which reduces the weight on your hand. A short butt will also make loading easier. Apologies if you've already thought of it. I know of a couple of shooters your size who have removed the LOP adjustment, screwing the buttplate directly onto the wood, to bring the grip and action closer.
As for the glove, I have a size M Proliner. My hands are 8.5in around the palm (I'm 6'1", but work in an office), and the glove is fine. I have found that an oversize glove can crease under the sling, which isn't pleasant; under sling pressure, any creases would form by the ring and pinky finger.
The sling, OK the big metal adjustment piece is a micro-adjuster for tweaking the tension in position. This should be clear of the rifle and your supporting arm - rules and comfort. From memory, the plastic straps are bolted onto the cuff. If you undo the bolts and move the cuff down a few holes, the adjuster will be closer to your bicip, hopefully clear of the rifle/forearm. If the adjuster still touches the rifle try changing the position on your arm. Most prone shooters here in the UK wear the sling high, by the armpit, but you can wear it low, but the elbow. You lose a little leverage, but may clear the rifle. If it still isn't clear, you may have to consider filing the triggerguard/grip, or a different sling.
In terms of position, think about:
Body angle: at 5'4" with a standard size rifle, you may need to lie a little wider than normal to maximise your reach, say 20°-30° instead of 10°-20°. The practical maximum is when the butt doesn't get enough purchase on your shoulder.
Left arm: push the elbow out fully, as far as the sling allows. The arm must be straight, i.e. The arm shoulder and hand are aligned if seen from above. This way the weight of the rifle is balanced. If the elbow is under the rifle, or over to the left, the weight of the rifle will tip the arm over. Do wait until you have position your left arm to shoulder the rifle, you need some slack in the sling to do this.
LOP/Handstop. As above, run the butt in all the way. You don't need to have your trigger hand flat against the stock, and don't have to worry about bolt throw with a 0.22. Position the handstop where you have height on the target and the supporting fore-arm is 30°+.
Sling: start with the sling a bit long, then shorten gradually until the butt is snug in your shoulder and the rifle is steady, even if you take your trigger hand from the grip. Depending on how close spaced the holes are you may need to tweak the handstop slightly or use the micro-adjuster.
Buttplate: I'd probably remove the hook for a bit, and flatten the wings. Raise the plate until you have full contact with your shoulder, height on the target, and the sights are a comfortable height. Then, if needed, adjust sideways, rotate, twist so the plate fits your shoulder securely AND the sights are a comfortable place by your eye. Then add the hook to locate the plate. The angle does matter. Try to seat the butt with your hand, don't just lift up the rifle by the grip. Hold the butt, lift it up and swing it into your shoulder. The shoulder and jacket wrap around the butt this way for a more secure fit.
Rearsight: You may need help your this. Get your head comfortable without the tearsight, then have a helper put the sight on the gun, and slide it back until it's 1-3in from your eye. Seeing a tunnel's breadth gap around the foresight tunnel is common.
Cheekpiece: adjust the height so your eye is level with the centre, with your head resting under it's weight. Adjust sideways/cant so it fits under your cheekbone with enough contact at your cheek for location. Ideally you should be able to drop your head into the cheekpiece with your eyes closed, and be on aim when you open them.
Re: Hand falling asleep
Hi I wanted to just post a thank you to all those that shared their knowledge and gave their insight. Probably thank yous aren't given enough these days but I thought it important to let those know how much I appreciated the help. It's nice to have a community of knowledgeable and humble people to turn to when you need some guidance. When I was young, shooting alongside my father, I'd often turn to him and say "Jeez this is hard?!" And always w/o fail his poignant response was "If it was easy EVERYONE would do it." Hes still right.
I've read and reread all the suggestions public and private, made adjustments, ordered a book, and even contacted someone to see if one day itd be possible to meet up and get some pointers. Small steps but decades later they're big to me. So again to all...thank you!
I've read and reread all the suggestions public and private, made adjustments, ordered a book, and even contacted someone to see if one day itd be possible to meet up and get some pointers. Small steps but decades later they're big to me. So again to all...thank you!
Re: Hand falling asleep
I had to quit because of this.. My hand & arm would hurt with throbbing for three or four days after getting out of the sling.. Saw a doctor, It was sugested strongly I stop.
Re: Hand falling asleep
Hmm, three to four days of pain after shooting is abnormal. Unless you had an underlying injury or medical condition, my first thought is that something was not right with the position, and especially the sling, whether tension or the direction of pull.
Re: Hand falling asleep
Arm was said to be correct," by a once was 7 time all american"
same way Id shot years ago without pain... Scores were good 96 average "USA 50" .99-100 NRA A-17... I just couldnt shoot more then two targets in an evening. If I pushed to three, Id hurt for near a week...
same way Id shot years ago without pain... Scores were good 96 average "USA 50" .99-100 NRA A-17... I just couldnt shoot more then two targets in an evening. If I pushed to three, Id hurt for near a week...
Re: Hand falling asleep
Moore,
The A17 is 10 scoring shots +sighters? Nearly a week of pain after 30 shots + sighters in no-wind conditions is not normal. Your doctor's advice was sensible. If the arm looked right, there has to be some other cause. Discomfort, like the OP reported is normal if the weight of the rifle isn't properly placed, or it's aggravating an injury, or after a long match, but longer pain is telling you something is not right.
The A17 is 10 scoring shots +sighters? Nearly a week of pain after 30 shots + sighters in no-wind conditions is not normal. Your doctor's advice was sensible. If the arm looked right, there has to be some other cause. Discomfort, like the OP reported is normal if the weight of the rifle isn't properly placed, or it's aggravating an injury, or after a long match, but longer pain is telling you something is not right.
Re: Hand falling asleep
There are a lot of things not "right"... Wore out with age Mostly...
I do appreciate your care... Not near enough of that these days.
I do appreciate your care... Not near enough of that these days.