Subject says it all, I am using a small grip, and I find the LP10's trigger a bit hard to reach, even at it's nearest position. What I see is the post which screws on to the trigger rail is sticking straight out, if it bent down a bit, it'd make the trigger closer. But before I do anything like that, do you guys have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Avianna
trinity-at-candesign.com.46123.0
Steyr LP10 trigger hard to reach
Moderators: rexifelis, pilkguns
Re: Steyr LP10 trigger hard to reach
Do a little grip modification. On your grip where the web of your hands rests (between your thumb and forefinger), take some wood off the grip...
Mike Douglass
.46132.46123
Mike Douglass
.46132.46123
Re: Steyr LP10 trigger hard to reach
This is a problem on the Steyr pistols. I have fairly short fingers, and I had to make somE serious changes to be able to use the LP10 the way I wanted. I have seen others with small hands strugle with the same problem both on the LP1 and the LP10.
First, I replaced the trigger with an LP1 trigger. The adjustable trigger shoe on the LP10 builds several millimeters forward, while the LP1 trigger is simpler and easier to reach. The problem is, off course, that I lost some of the adjustability of the LP10 trigger shoe, but I can live with that.
I also reshaped the LP1 trigger, but that is for another problem.
Second, I removed the metal insert that the frame rests on inside the grip. That also saved a couple of millimeters, but have the sideeffect that the grip will be a bit higher on the pistol. But that was actually an advantage for me.
Third, I did my normal reshaping of the grip, removing some wood in some places, adding plastic wood in other, allowing my hand to come a few more millimeters forward.
All in all, this was successful for me (I have to get myself a digital camera to be able to illustrate with som pictures...).
I am not sure that I understand completely what you want to do, but if you mean bending backwards the part of the trigger that is connected to the pistol (pointing downwards), I think it could be OK if it may be bent without breaking (I have not tried this).
RML
.46133.46123
First, I replaced the trigger with an LP1 trigger. The adjustable trigger shoe on the LP10 builds several millimeters forward, while the LP1 trigger is simpler and easier to reach. The problem is, off course, that I lost some of the adjustability of the LP10 trigger shoe, but I can live with that.
I also reshaped the LP1 trigger, but that is for another problem.
Second, I removed the metal insert that the frame rests on inside the grip. That also saved a couple of millimeters, but have the sideeffect that the grip will be a bit higher on the pistol. But that was actually an advantage for me.
Third, I did my normal reshaping of the grip, removing some wood in some places, adding plastic wood in other, allowing my hand to come a few more millimeters forward.
All in all, this was successful for me (I have to get myself a digital camera to be able to illustrate with som pictures...).
I am not sure that I understand completely what you want to do, but if you mean bending backwards the part of the trigger that is connected to the pistol (pointing downwards), I think it could be OK if it may be bent without breaking (I have not tried this).
RML
.46133.46123
Re: Steyr LP10 trigger hard to reach
Hi Avie,
I too have short fingers and find adjusting the LP10 trigger to a comfy spot is difficult. Here are some suggestions to build upon those already made here.
1) Be extremely cautious in removing material around the "web" area of the grip - there is very little material thickness to play with, and you'll quickly sand through the wood.
2) An improvement may be noticed if you try to increase the rake angle of the grip (if you like a seriously raked grip, that is). I've done this and it appears to have helped a bit.
3) The LP-1 trigger definitely adjusts further back - I've got an old one you can try if you wish. Patrick has my contact info here in Ottawa if you wish to set this up.
4)This next one takes some explaining - please be patient. There are two "rods" in the trigger system, one is mounted fairly horizontally, parallel to the barrel - this is the one which governs the amount of fore/aft adjustment on the trigger. The other rod is virtually vertical, and is the one which governs vertical movement of the trigger shoe. The vertical rod attaches to the horizontal rod using a square pinch-block containing a large slot-head screw. When this pinch-block is slid as far aft as possible, you've reached the limit of rearward adjustment of the trigger shoe. If you were to file the rear face of this pinch-block you would be able to slide the block further rearward. Depending on how much material you remove you may get into the countersink into which the slot-head screw fits. If this should happen then you'll need to reduce the diameter of the head of the screw with a file. The more you reduce this diameter the less force you'll be able to apply to it to solidly affix the vertical post to the horizontal post, so you want to be careful.
5) Manufacture a new trigger shoe which mounts more directly to the vertical shaft. A chunk of aluminum and a file and a couple of hours of time should produce useable results...
Hope this helps.
Mark.
.46163.46123
I too have short fingers and find adjusting the LP10 trigger to a comfy spot is difficult. Here are some suggestions to build upon those already made here.
1) Be extremely cautious in removing material around the "web" area of the grip - there is very little material thickness to play with, and you'll quickly sand through the wood.
2) An improvement may be noticed if you try to increase the rake angle of the grip (if you like a seriously raked grip, that is). I've done this and it appears to have helped a bit.
3) The LP-1 trigger definitely adjusts further back - I've got an old one you can try if you wish. Patrick has my contact info here in Ottawa if you wish to set this up.
4)This next one takes some explaining - please be patient. There are two "rods" in the trigger system, one is mounted fairly horizontally, parallel to the barrel - this is the one which governs the amount of fore/aft adjustment on the trigger. The other rod is virtually vertical, and is the one which governs vertical movement of the trigger shoe. The vertical rod attaches to the horizontal rod using a square pinch-block containing a large slot-head screw. When this pinch-block is slid as far aft as possible, you've reached the limit of rearward adjustment of the trigger shoe. If you were to file the rear face of this pinch-block you would be able to slide the block further rearward. Depending on how much material you remove you may get into the countersink into which the slot-head screw fits. If this should happen then you'll need to reduce the diameter of the head of the screw with a file. The more you reduce this diameter the less force you'll be able to apply to it to solidly affix the vertical post to the horizontal post, so you want to be careful.
5) Manufacture a new trigger shoe which mounts more directly to the vertical shaft. A chunk of aluminum and a file and a couple of hours of time should produce useable results...
Hope this helps.
Mark.
.46163.46123
Re: Steyr LP10 trigger hard to reach
I had trouble reaching the trigger as well, I changed to the old style trigger and it fixed the problem for me.
: Subject says it all, I am using a small grip, and I find the LP10's trigger a bit hard to reach, even at it's nearest position. What I see is the post which screws on to the trigger rail is sticking straight out, if it bent down a bit, it'd make the trigger closer. But before I do anything like that, do you guys have any suggestions?
: Thanks!
: Avianna
.46221.46123
: Subject says it all, I am using a small grip, and I find the LP10's trigger a bit hard to reach, even at it's nearest position. What I see is the post which screws on to the trigger rail is sticking straight out, if it bent down a bit, it'd make the trigger closer. But before I do anything like that, do you guys have any suggestions?
: Thanks!
: Avianna
.46221.46123