Some Help understanding Trigger Adjustment

[Pirsqard]

I’ve recently purchased a second-hand Walther LG300 Alutec and would like to make adjustments to the first and second stage. The manual describes five separate adjustments to the trigger, most of which I believe I understand but would like to confirm here if anyone has a moment to comment.

1) The first adjustment is to the trigger shoe itself, up/down and back and forth. I understand this adjustment and assume it would be in conjunction with the back and forth adjustment of the grip and furthermore, potentially the buttstock length.

2) Trigger Pull: I believe this is the weight of the pull as measured with a trigger pull gauge.

3) Trigger slack is stated in the manual as the first stage travel. I understand this.

4) Sear Engagement: The manual states: with the trigger cocked, the screw is slowly turned clockwise until the rifle shoots. Then turn the screw anti-clockwise for about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I believe this is the second stage travel.

5) Trigger Power: The manual states: Turning clockwise increases, and turning anti-clockwise reduces trigger power. I am not sure what this does. Is the is an adjustment to the hammer spring tension? What is trigger power?

Thank you in advance for any help that can be offered understanding not only the individual adjustments but how they might be better understood as an adjustment to the entire trigger system.

[Packrat1947]

Although I don't own that rifle, all your thoughts are correct. This applies to nearly all triggers - with some variation.

The "trigger power" must be the spring tension that keeps the sear engaged. Goofy term they use and confusing.

So basically it helps control the second-stage pull off pressure - along with the sear engagement.

Hope this helps.
Packrat1947

P.S. My trigger experience includes but not limited to: Hart 2 oz., Canjar 1.5 oz. light pull, factory Remingtons, Anschutz SuperAirs, Feinwerkbau 300S, Jewel 2 oz., Milazzo-Krieger. Lots of pistols too.

[Tim S]

1) The trigger shoe can be adjusted with the grip/butt, or independently. It's there to allow for finger length, so the right point of the finger contacts the shoe: typically this is the pad Just in from the tip.

2) Trigger pull, yes this normally the release weight. Most shooters won't measure it and go by feel alone. Some light triggers may not register on some gauges. For a modern two stage trigger, the weight of each stage is independently adjustable. This will probably be the first stage.

4) No sear adjustment is not second stage travel. Sear engagement is the movement of the release surfaces, commonly creep. In a true two stage, the first stage takes up most of the engagement. The second stage is then a knife edge. Single stage triggers have very little sear engagement to be crisp, but are usually heavier for safety. DO NOT twiddle the sear engagement idly: adjust very carefully, only if there is any movement in the second stage before it releases. Second stage movement after release is over travel.

5) Trigger power sounds like the second stage weight.

[Pirsqard]

Your input is much appreciated; Thank you!

Although I don't own that rifle, all your thoughts are correct. This applies to nearly all triggers - with some variation.

The "trigger power" must be the spring tension that keeps the sear engaged. Goofy term they use and confusing.

So basically it helps control the second-stage pull off pressure - along with the sear engagement.

Hope this helps.
Packrat1947

P.S. My trigger experience includes but not limited to: Hart 2 oz., Canjar 1.5 oz. light pull, factory Remingtons, Anschutz SuperAirs, Feinwerkbau 300S, Jewel 2 oz., Milazzo-Krieger. Lots of pistols too.

[Pirsqard]

Thank you! Your comments are appreciated.

1) The trigger shoe can be adjusted with the grip/butt, or independently. It's there to allow for finger length, so the right point of the finger contacts the shoe: typically this is the pad Just in from the tip.

2) Trigger pull, yes this normally the release weight. Most shooters won't measure it and go by feel alone. Some light triggers may not register on some gauges. For a modern two stage trigger, the weight of each stage is independently adjustable. This will probably be the first stage.

4) No sear adjustment is not second stage travel. Sear engagement is the movement of the release surfaces, commonly creep. In a true two stage, the first stage takes up most of the engagement. The second stage is then a knife edge. Single stage triggers have very little sear engagement to be crisp, but are usually heavier for safety. DO NOT twiddle the sear engagement idly: adjust very carefully, only if there is any movement in the second stage before it releases. Second stage movement after release is over travel.

5) Trigger power sounds like the second stage weight.

[Albert T]

"Trigger power" (screw f in the manual) is actually the first (1st) stage trigger pull weight. (the most rearward screw, pointing diagonally forward).
"Trigger Pull" (screw c in the manual) is the second (2nd) stage trigger pull weight. (the most forward screw, pointing slightly to the rear).
see attached picture.

Albert T
(The Netherlands)

[Pirsqard]

Albert, thank you for your post and time.

As you seem to be someone that is familiar with the LG300 specifically, and should you return to this post, perhaps you could further help me. I am happy with the first and second stage trigger pull weights, as I am with the first stage travel. What I do want to adjust is the second stage travel, or as was previously stated, its "crispness." I find it just a hair mushy. So my question: which screw or screws would I use to make that adjustment and in what suggested manner or inter-play? I am assuming that would be the screw (e) in the diagram. The manual states, as you probably know, "with the trigger cocked the screw is slowly turned clockwise until the gun shoots. Then turn anti-clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn." Is this turn anti-clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 the adjustment range? Does your experience support that? And would the 1/4 or the 1/2 turn provide less travel (more crispness)? In other words, does the second stage become crisper or less crisp the more I turn anti-clockwise?

Should you get back around to this posting, thank you in advance for your help. Becuase of a lack of experience adjusting triggers, I just don't want to start turning screws and make a mess I can't find my way out of.

"Trigger power" (screw f in the manual) is actually the first (1st) stage trigger pull weight. (the most rearward screw, pointing diagonally forward).
"Trigger Pull" (screw c in the manual) is the second (2nd) stage trigger pull weight. (the most forward screw, pointing slightly to the rear).
see attached picture.

Albert T
(The Netherlands)

[Tim S]

No, the 1/4-1/2 turn isn't the adjustment range. The manual is telling you to reduce sear engagement (your 2nd stage travel) so much it can't hold the pressure. You then increase engagement just enough that the trigger holds, but is still super crisp. 1/4-1/2 turn is the safety margin for crispness.

[marky-d]

FWIW, I seem to recall the Anschutz manual giving nearly identical instructions for this as well -- adjust 1/4 turn from where it triggers. Not to say the triggers are the same, or result in the same level of 'crispness', but just that it appears to be a standard procedure.

marky-d

[Pirsqard]

No, the 1/4-1/2 turn isn't the adjustment range. The manual is telling you to reduce sear engagement (your 2nd stage travel) so much it can't hold the pressure. You then increase engagement just enough that the trigger holds, but is still super crisp. 1/4-1/2 turn is the safety margin for crispness.

Thank you, Tim. Then it sounds like I need only concern myself with the adjustment of the sear.

[Pirsqard]

FWIW, I seem to recall the Anschutz manual giving nearly identical instructions for this as well -- adjust 1/4 turn from where it triggers. Not to say the triggers are the same, or result in the same level of 'crispness', but just that it appears to be a standard procedure.

marky-d

Thank you!