3 d Printed Grips.

[spektr]

Looking for a bit of help. If you have a set of printed grips from PrecisionTargetPistolGrips.com, could you please let me know how they are holding up in service. My High Standard Supermatic is a candidate for an upgrade and the pricing VS Rinks has me intrigued. Thanks Scott

[Gwhite]

The team I help coach has several at this point, with a 2nd Tau-7 grip on order. The grip with the most use is an XXS for a Pardini PGP-75. It was put into service around the beginning of the year, and went to the Collegiate National Championships last March. We have another gal shooting it this year, and it's holding up just fine. We just put a second PGP-75 grip into service.

I've worked with Andrew Berryhill at PTPG on getting the frame fit right for several types of pistols, and I've never had any concerns about how sturdy they are. We actually have several wooden grips (Rinks, Nil Griffe, etc.) that have developed cracks where students have "gorilla'd" the mounting & palm shelf screws. We've even replaced a couple Benelli MP90S palm shelves with 3D printed ones of our own making. I would rate the 3D grips from PTPG as generally being more indestructible than wood.

Hands are oddly shaped squishy things, so getting a perfect fit may still take a little sanding, filing & puttying. If anything is really out of whack, Andrew will make it right.

[spektr]

Thanks for the quick feedback....;

[Chia]

Andrew Berryhill is a good guy to work with. If you're not mechanically inclined, he can still explain things in a way that is understandable, and will work to make sure you get the grip you need (he can even send you pictures and parts he needs measurements from by using auto CAD). We worked on my steyr evo 10 for a few weeks, and the resulting grip is absolutely fantastic. Well worth the money spent.

[Jon Math]

I had a set for a .38 revolver, they failed pretty quickly within a 100 rounds. Andy offered to replace them no questions asked; his service is outstanding, but I did not take him up on his offer. I’d be comfortable with them on a .22 or AP but my experience with light target loads in a heavy revolver would not leave me with a warm and fuzzy feeling concerning heavier calibers and 3D Grips.

[40xguy]

what is contact information for Andrew Berryhill? thank you.

[Chia]

Through the website. The gmail account under contacts is his.

[ric1911a1]

I received my new grips from Andrew today. I had him make a set for my Unique DES-69 .22lr target pistol. Just to be different, I had them done in red, white, and blue.

To get the shape and size I wanted, I sent him the grips from my Hammerli 208S. He duplicated their size and feel to the Unique frame almost perfectly. It will take very little to have them nicely functional, just a little relief around the safety cut out.

My photos seem to be too big for this format. If you would like to see them, send a PM with your email address.

I recommend his grips without reservation. He will work with you until you achieve the desired result.

Ric

[-TT-]

Another +1 for Andrew's service. He whipped up an upswept palmrest for my Benelli MP90S stock grips, working from photos and measurements. It needed one revision but the end result just needed some sanding/finishing to achieve exactly what I wanted. Photo attached, thanks Andrew!

[Gwhite]

I had a set for a .38 revolver, they failed pretty quickly within a 100 rounds. Andy offered to replace them no questions asked; his service is outstanding, but I did not take him up on his offer. I’d be comfortable with them on a .22 or AP but my experience with light target loads in a heavy revolver would not leave me with a warm and fuzzy feeling concerning heavier calibers and 3D Grips.

I just noticed this. The thing about 3D printing is that there is a huge range of variables. The grips are not solid inside. This saves weight & filament. Andrew can adjust:

The material: some are considerably stronger than others

The outer wall thickness: This can add strength over the entire model

The Infil percentage & structure: This controls how much material is used inside the grip. It's typically a honeycomb pattern, but you can select different different amounts of material, different patterns, and different angles to support the outer shell better against stresses if a weakness is found.

Printing orientation: The plastic used is typically at least as strong (if not stronger) than wood, but it does also have a grain as a result of the layering process. If there is a strength issue, it can often be dealt with by changing the orientation and as a result, the "grain" direction. Adjusting various printing parameters (speed, temperature, extrusion rate, etc.) can also affect how well each layer bonds to the next.

Although it gets a bit more complicated, you can also play games in the printing software to apply different amounts of infil and wall thickness to various sections of the model.

I have worked with Andrew on over a half dozen grips of various sorts for the team I help coach, and have a 3D printer of my own to use for other projects. I would nave no concerns asking him to make grips for a .44 magnum revolver, with the understanding that it might take one of two iterations to get it sorted out properly.

[-TT-]

The material: some are considerably stronger than others

I should perhaps add that we chose his "wood composite" option for my palm shelf, in "walnut" (his darkest) color. It is quite strong and after sanding with 120 grit has an ideal texture for my goal. I was able to finish it lightly with stain and a danish oil. The color is a bit different from the grip, but came out rather attractively contrasting.

Here's a second angle that shows the material's wood-like appearance a little better: