Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963
Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
Has anyone added a accessory rail to the fore- stock of a savage mark 1 or 2 composite stock?
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
JPK ... not quite the same thing, but our club has some Izmash CM-2's where they had a non-standard rail in their wood stocks.
I ordered rails from Daisy that they use on their sporters and just routed out the channel to fit. Had to shorten the rail about 2".
My hack job would probably cause the craftsman in you to laugh, but as long as there is enough material to either screw or glue in a rail it should not be that hard. next time you are down, I could bring one and let you see it.
I ordered rails from Daisy that they use on their sporters and just routed out the channel to fit. Had to shorten the rail about 2".
My hack job would probably cause the craftsman in you to laugh, but as long as there is enough material to either screw or glue in a rail it should not be that hard. next time you are down, I could bring one and let you see it.
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
Most of what I've seen is the conversion to a wooden stock and then the rail attached. similar to what Joel did the with CM-2 (we just grind the sling adapter to fit the CM-2 rail though) Theres quite a few after market wood stock and laminates for savage rimfire rifles but they get spendy. I had myself and a few others try to figure out how we could do it to the synthetic and no one was truly convinced it would be tight. So we made do with the nylon sling with the pin attachment on the stock, in hindsight it actually ended up maybe one of the better things we did before jumping up to precision rifles.
GS
GS
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
Ooops I meant synthetic stock.
Yeah I managed to add a l pin a little lower on the fore stock which helps with a sling, but I thought If I could some how mount a rail that would open up a way to mount
a hand block, hand stop... There is just not a lot of material there.
Yeah I managed to add a l pin a little lower on the fore stock which helps with a sling, but I thought If I could some how mount a rail that would open up a way to mount
a hand block, hand stop... There is just not a lot of material there.
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
And not only that there is not a lot of material there. I don't think any adhesive really sticks to that synthetic material.
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
It's nice to be pretty, but I guess I look at our club guns as starters to get the kids excited. As long as the kids shoot well, the guns can be a little ugly. Some even like them that way!
If you routed out for the rail, would there be any material left? Maybe 1/8 rivets?
If you routed out for the rail, would there be any material left? Maybe 1/8 rivets?
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
I don't know I'll have to get a measurement. The places that get screws: action screws, sling pin... there is a build up or a synthetic block that the screw goes into. So I think it is pretty thin. Just though i post to see if anyone has figured a way.
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
Completely understand, racked my brain on it for awhile as well. Would love to hear a easy solution. I like the idea of just drilling and moving the pin back, probably a good work around. Those pins arent the best though, I had one youth crank on his sling and pull the pin out of the stock (imagine that at a state competition!) Even though the hand placement isnt ideal with relation to the stop/pin the sling can still get pretty tight and the position pretty solid. I guess it depends on what the class requirements are, the distance, and whats being shot, A-17, A-36, etc. Good luck and let us know!
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
when I moved the pin lower i placed and glued a wood -block on the inside of the stock, pre drilled and screwed the pin in. Has worked real good.
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
I added rails to seven Savage Mk I rifles used by 4H 3-Position juniors & some seniors. Club's low funds & high participation means our 4 Annies & 3 CM2s are not enough. There are two places on the plastic stock with a sort of thicker piller inside that will take a narrow screw near trigger,I think needs bolt/nut farther out forearm, but either must predrill. Buy correct aluminum rail $14 ChampChoice or ChampShooters' verify rail size,trim length. Drill and countersink rail to match the pillar locations. But first thing is to take cheap $70 power hand planer to underside of stock to make flat surface for rail. I did not use glue, just screws, but adhesive added to screws would be okay. Careful with power hand planer it is extremely dangerous tool, focus attention & no kids allowed. Also use a bag, the planed plastic shoots out ten feet or more. only need to plane off 1/8 inch or so. I will sell my Makita planer but shipping too expensive & the Ryobi at Home Depot is cheaper & better because of its catch bag. Sorry spelling damaged keyboard only one hand rt now.. Yes the rail stands proud of the stock but still works great for rail accessories, kids love having a rail esp. to add block or riser for Standing position which can be made cheap using block of wood, [router a channel & add rail mount hardware available at CC], rail can always be removed if not glued. ps I'm not a woodworker nor especially handy.
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
Well sounds pretty good. Are you able to post a couple photos of the work? It's seems to me that since the rail is just sitting on top with only 2 screws it might be flimsy? the rail is not real stout and in other installation there are several screws in the mount.
When the kids tighten up a sling it doesn't bow out in the middle? Please send photos if you can.
Thanks
When the kids tighten up a sling it doesn't bow out in the middle? Please send photos if you can.
Thanks
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
This is all from memory of a project I did over two years ago. I am no longer the coach sad to say due to health reasons, so I no longer have the rifles, and the season does not start again til October where I could get a photo. But no, it is not a flimsy construction, the rails are well secured to the stock, no gaps, no bending, no matter the sling or handstop pressure, though a glove is indicated since the rail stands proud of the stock. Two screws secure the rail well, but I think planing the stock flat beforehand was the secret to making this work - flat meaning at least the width of the rail is flat, actually about twice the width of the rail is flat due to the stock's profile. I tried using sandpaper then a hand plane but they were too difficult to use to actually make any progress. I finally had to buy a power hand planer. Unfortunately I went for the $149 Makita when the $69 Ryobi was probably a better choice for a small project of limited duration.
I first thought to Bondo the interior of the stock then router a channel for the rail to make it flush, but when I noticed the two areas which would accept screws I then developed the method of planing - screw location - drilling and countersink and screw attachment of the rail. (and like I said I think one of them was a bolt/nut but can't remember now).
I may have added blue Loctite to the screws, that would be a good idea. I had a practice stock to work with but it was from a Mk II not a Mk I and the forearm profile is more narrow on the Mk II. I modified one Mk II during the project, but it was so long ago I can't remember the outcome of one rifle, except I recall the entire project came out well and the students have shot with them 2 1/2 seasons so far.
Planing: remember how dangerous that rotating blade is; be sure to secure the stock to a stable foundation and make some practice passes with the planer power off. I used a 2x4 for practice. 2 or 3 or 4 easy, long passes that take off a tiny amount each pass are what worked for me. Important: If the hand planer is allowed to stop and tilt forward when it reaches the end of the object while the blade is rotating it can and will dig a cylindrical dip. I had to use a long confident forward motion of the hand power planer with a smooth lift at the end, going from barrel end toward the trigger guard. For me, it was easy to eyeball close enough to the correct 90 degree planer angle to the stock centerline; others might need to make some sort of guide.
As for other projects, I also filed down a couple of Annie-standard handstops to fit the non-standard rail found on CM2 rifles, and oddly enough it was easier to chisel the stock wood wider and insert a length of the proper Annie rail into it that it was to file down two different accessories. But in the end the project did not have a finished look, since I did not have a power router I had to use chisels and such. I should have bought a router and learned to use it, or possibly a table saw, but I only had 3 CM2s to change rails on.
Just remember to buy the rail sections that fit your accessories. I bought the wrong type once even though there are only two types available. The rail needs some length cut off to fit the Mk I stock forearms - don't cut off the entry end. Also remember to position the entry end of the rail at the barrel end; that makes changing accessories easier, they slide out forward, and slide in toward the butt.
The main reason for the rail addition was the large difference in size of the student users of the rifles - some were 8-9 years old (and some of them did not use a sling yet), other users were mature young men and women age 16 and up. A rail allowed each student to position their sling and hand stop and riser at the point that fit their body best.
The Mk I Savages will shoot 1 MOA, guaranteed by Savage. I had one that did not shoot that well, from a rest, so I sent it back to Savage and they returned it with no comments except a fired 5-round target which they noted measured .74 MOA, shot at 100 yards using the old top line US-made Federal 711(?) std velocity target ammo. 1 MOA at 50 yards is a half inch group; at 50 feet it is a 1/6 inch group, so the rifle action and barrel is capable of a very good score on a 3-Position target.
gotta go, will ttry to answer questions.
I first thought to Bondo the interior of the stock then router a channel for the rail to make it flush, but when I noticed the two areas which would accept screws I then developed the method of planing - screw location - drilling and countersink and screw attachment of the rail. (and like I said I think one of them was a bolt/nut but can't remember now).
I may have added blue Loctite to the screws, that would be a good idea. I had a practice stock to work with but it was from a Mk II not a Mk I and the forearm profile is more narrow on the Mk II. I modified one Mk II during the project, but it was so long ago I can't remember the outcome of one rifle, except I recall the entire project came out well and the students have shot with them 2 1/2 seasons so far.
Planing: remember how dangerous that rotating blade is; be sure to secure the stock to a stable foundation and make some practice passes with the planer power off. I used a 2x4 for practice. 2 or 3 or 4 easy, long passes that take off a tiny amount each pass are what worked for me. Important: If the hand planer is allowed to stop and tilt forward when it reaches the end of the object while the blade is rotating it can and will dig a cylindrical dip. I had to use a long confident forward motion of the hand power planer with a smooth lift at the end, going from barrel end toward the trigger guard. For me, it was easy to eyeball close enough to the correct 90 degree planer angle to the stock centerline; others might need to make some sort of guide.
As for other projects, I also filed down a couple of Annie-standard handstops to fit the non-standard rail found on CM2 rifles, and oddly enough it was easier to chisel the stock wood wider and insert a length of the proper Annie rail into it that it was to file down two different accessories. But in the end the project did not have a finished look, since I did not have a power router I had to use chisels and such. I should have bought a router and learned to use it, or possibly a table saw, but I only had 3 CM2s to change rails on.
Just remember to buy the rail sections that fit your accessories. I bought the wrong type once even though there are only two types available. The rail needs some length cut off to fit the Mk I stock forearms - don't cut off the entry end. Also remember to position the entry end of the rail at the barrel end; that makes changing accessories easier, they slide out forward, and slide in toward the butt.
The main reason for the rail addition was the large difference in size of the student users of the rifles - some were 8-9 years old (and some of them did not use a sling yet), other users were mature young men and women age 16 and up. A rail allowed each student to position their sling and hand stop and riser at the point that fit their body best.
The Mk I Savages will shoot 1 MOA, guaranteed by Savage. I had one that did not shoot that well, from a rest, so I sent it back to Savage and they returned it with no comments except a fired 5-round target which they noted measured .74 MOA, shot at 100 yards using the old top line US-made Federal 711(?) std velocity target ammo. 1 MOA at 50 yards is a half inch group; at 50 feet it is a 1/6 inch group, so the rifle action and barrel is capable of a very good score on a 3-Position target.
gotta go, will ttry to answer questions.
Re: Adding accessory rail to Savage mark 1or 2?
OK thanks so much for the info. I think it is worth a try.