Reduced Target

A place to discuss non-discipline specific items, such as mental training, ammo needs, and issues regarding ISSF, USAS, and NRA

If you wish to make a donation to this forum's operation , it would be greatly appreciated.
https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/targettalk?yours=true

Moderators: pilkguns, m1963, David Levene, Spencer, Richard H

Post Reply
User avatar
conradin
Posts: 1999
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:18 am
Location: Basement.

Reduced Target

Post by conradin »

I have been meant to ask this for a long time.

My garage is under renovation, so I lost my 10M lane. I set up a lane inside my apartment, around 6.5M to be comfortable, 7.5M barely OK.
The hall way is 8.5M maximum.

I use SCATT to print out a reduced 10M AP target for 6,5M. It totally did not work. A pellet went through the target and scored at least three rings. I used the toughest grade of paper, it is not the target paper. I then adjust it to use 7M, better, but still not helpful.

Eventually I gave up and print the 10mAP into a reduced 8M target, and shot somewhere around 7M. It is much better but it is still not perfect. A pellet occupies two rings, but at least it is clean.

Finally it is very hard for me to judge whether I shot a one ring or totally off, alternatively a 7 ring instead of white. Finally I have no way of telling if I hit the X.

So I am wondering if using SCATT to make reduced target is totally pointless, and the only use of it is for either you have the entire SCATT set, or use it for dry fire. I can see if you shoot 9M with a 10M reduced to 9M target will be OK, but at 8M it is already not effective.
Last edited by conradin on Sun Feb 23, 2014 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
dronning
Posts: 557
Joined: Wed Feb 13, 2013 8:56 pm
Location: MInnesota

Post by dronning »

I have used the SCATT to print reduced size targets with great success. I print on the back side of a an official Kruger printed target. Very clean holes.

There is a point where the target gets so small it is worthless.

When I ran out of Kruger targets I switched to heavy paper with a backer behind it made of cardboard. The backer is important to get clean holes it helps prevent ripping or tear out. They won't be as clean as the Kruger targets which are made with short fiber paper.

When the targets get too small they become single shot targets. You have to go through a process of putting multiple bullseyes on one page. I print to a file then cut and paste and put as many bulls on one page as I can and still get a good clean sight picture on the one I am shooting at.

Remember you score the inside ring even if the pellet goes across multiple rings. You hit the X if your pellet went over center.
Certified Safety Instructor: Rifle & Pistol
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
~ Ben Franklin
remmy223
Posts: 123
Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2011 4:39 pm
Location: East Midlands England.

Post by remmy223 »

Why are you even thinking about score when training? ?? Process is more important.
User avatar
conradin
Posts: 1999
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:18 am
Location: Basement.

Post by conradin »

remmy223 wrote:Why are you even thinking about score when training? ?? Process is more important.
I use the rings merely for the sake of pointing put the problem. I can use grouping also. But the point is, it seemed to me, at least before the previous advice, the reduced target is useless. I may as well , as advised, aim dead center at all times.
User avatar
DLS
Posts: 179
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 8:42 pm
Location: Pacific Northwest

Post by DLS »

I would suggest that when training, one doesn't want to stray from actual match conditions to the fullest extent possible. so when shooting a reduced distance, one should ensure that the target black is the same relative size as the regulation black when shooting the regulation distance. You already give up some training value by the reduces distance, you don't want to give up anymore than is necessary.

I use the Ian Pellant software to print 6m targets both for rifle and pistol, and shoot them in my living room. I print them on cardstock and back the target with a piece of scrap cardboard an the resulting shot holes are quite nice, there is little tearing and the edges are for the most part crisp.

Even using standard printer paper the holes are not too bad when backed by a cardboard sheet. I happen to have access a lot of cardboard blotters that back up letter size "legal pads" so I don't have to do any cutting, but when those are scarce a minute with a box cutter and I have a couple of months supply. You don't have to be precise in your cuts for these sacrificial sheets.

Why does it matter that the pellet crosses several rings? On the 6m rifle target it's even worse! You are interested in the scoring side of the hole, not how many rings are covered by that hole. I'll grant you, a magnifying glass is helpful, or mandatory with eyes like mine, but I still can score pretty accurately.

I agree that keeping score is important, even on practice targets. It gives the shooter one more reference point as to tracking progress. I also track group size and the number of flyers that fall outside of a predetermined scoring ring. As I get better I choose a closer and closer ring.

I hope this helps
User avatar
conradin
Posts: 1999
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:18 am
Location: Basement.

Post by conradin »

Sorry to not elaborate, I did use the best paper for the target, the paper stock is as hard as the standard Edelmann, plus I use the same yellow beige color. I have an industrial printer so I can print as many as I want.
Post Reply