So I just purchased a really nice Anschutz 2313 stock from a gentleman on this forum, and I knowingly purchased the stock with the understanding that I would need the 4980 Adapter Plate to marry up my son's 1907 barreled action to the 2313 stock. No issue there.
My question / concern is that there are two screws that are used to attach the adapter plate to the barreled action. These protrude about 3mm or so off of the bottom of the adapter plate. When you attempt to marry the stock up to the barreled action with adapter plate, the screw heads interfere with the fitment.
Either I need ~3mm longer bedding screws to attach the stock to the adapter plate, or the stock needs to be inletted to accommodate the screw heads. Given the fact the stock is cast aluminum, I'm not thrilled at all about the idea of inletting the already brittle stock.
Anyone ever used this adapter plate? Am I totally missing something? I couldn't find anything at all online. I thought it would just marry right up.
It's almost like they should have countersunk the screws that mount the plate to the barreled action.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Frank
Anschutz 4980 Adapter Plate - QUESTION
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
I am not intimately familiar with the adapter plate but I am with 2013's and the 1800/1900 54 actions.
First a question. Does the adapter plate have a recoil lug surface that engages the 1900's recoil lug slot?
Next, does the plate have recoil lug surfaces that bear against the stock's recoil lug ?
I assume yes to both questions. What I would do if this was my project is to bolt the bare adapter plate into the stock and look at the bottom of the stock and see if it would be possible to use longer fasteners to bolt all the way through the stock, through the plate and into the 1900 receiver.
If so I would clamp the stock into the milling machine with the plate bolted firmly in place [ and pushed rearward against the recoil surfaces while tightening the 4 screws] and drill holes all the way through the stock. Then acquire the correct length screws and bolt the action in place.
Plan B. Find short countersunk screws to replace the supplied screws.
Plan C. Mill reliefs into the alum stock so the bolt heads have adequate clearance.
As I said, if there is room of the bottom of the stock for bolt heads and the stock is solid metal where the new holes would be located then I would go with plan A. Basically you would be bolting the plate into the stock and never removing it. You might even bed it permanently into the stock. Any time you need to remove the action you loosen the 2 new longer screws. The longer screws are also superior for trying different torque settings to tune the rifle.
First a question. Does the adapter plate have a recoil lug surface that engages the 1900's recoil lug slot?
Next, does the plate have recoil lug surfaces that bear against the stock's recoil lug ?
I assume yes to both questions. What I would do if this was my project is to bolt the bare adapter plate into the stock and look at the bottom of the stock and see if it would be possible to use longer fasteners to bolt all the way through the stock, through the plate and into the 1900 receiver.
If so I would clamp the stock into the milling machine with the plate bolted firmly in place [ and pushed rearward against the recoil surfaces while tightening the 4 screws] and drill holes all the way through the stock. Then acquire the correct length screws and bolt the action in place.
Plan B. Find short countersunk screws to replace the supplied screws.
Plan C. Mill reliefs into the alum stock so the bolt heads have adequate clearance.
As I said, if there is room of the bottom of the stock for bolt heads and the stock is solid metal where the new holes would be located then I would go with plan A. Basically you would be bolting the plate into the stock and never removing it. You might even bed it permanently into the stock. Any time you need to remove the action you loosen the 2 new longer screws. The longer screws are also superior for trying different torque settings to tune the rifle.
Frank,
I have the same excate question, where I have a round 1907 with the adaptor plate. It just dosen't make sense that your entire action should just sit on two screws. I was able to tighten the 4 bedding screws into the adaptor plate and tighten to 5 newtons. However I am still considering taking the stock into a machinest and see if they can drill two counter sink holes that the 2 bedding screws can sit in so the adaptor sits flush in the 2213 stock.
Mike
I have the same excate question, where I have a round 1907 with the adaptor plate. It just dosen't make sense that your entire action should just sit on two screws. I was able to tighten the 4 bedding screws into the adaptor plate and tighten to 5 newtons. However I am still considering taking the stock into a machinest and see if they can drill two counter sink holes that the 2 bedding screws can sit in so the adaptor sits flush in the 2213 stock.
Mike
Relax! This isn't a big deal -- I faced the same problem and took the stock to a gunsmith who drilled two pockets for the round action screws to sit in so the adapter would fit properly in the stock. It only took a couple of hours and it worked great.
Pockets drilled:
Everything fits:
The write up is here.
One other point to keep in mind is that you'll need to relieve a small cut out at the back of the 2313 stock for the tang of the round Match 54 action as it's longer than the square action.
Jason
Pockets drilled:
Everything fits:
The write up is here.
One other point to keep in mind is that you'll need to relieve a small cut out at the back of the 2313 stock for the tang of the round Match 54 action as it's longer than the square action.
Jason