I have read a post by "Warren" which is nearly nine years old now, so rather than ressurecting the post this is what he wrote bwith regard to the AERON Chameleon:
The Chameleon was developed directly from the 5-shot B96. This is why it cocks itself automatically. The trigger is a long roll typical of many Euro semi autos, the theory being you keep the finger moving smoothly, and timed and rapid fire is a lot more successful. Of course some people find being positive on trigger release and NOT stopping more difficult in slow fire. Basically, if you adopt a stop/start approach with a roll trigger the results won't be very good. On the other hand, driving the trigger, and "steering" the front sight with the trigger movement, resulting in a quicker release, can work spectacularly well.
Now, I have a Chameleon and I love it. I came accross this post because I am looking to adjust the trigger. I have exactly the same issue, the terrific long travel of the first stage. But I also have the result that Warren alludes to - I can be really good with this gun on a good day. I am definately going to experiment with reducing the travel but does anyone have any pointers for shooting with this style of trigger?
As I have said, I like the gun and wish to improve with it and for the sake of completeness I have it's bigger brother the B96 which is really a lot of gun for a very modest amount of money. Fun to shoot.
Trigger Adjustments
In order to gain access to the adjusting screws the trigger guard must first be removed. This is held in place by the counter weight bar. To unscrew this, place the appropriate sized allen key in the counter weight and use it as leverage to unscrew the bar.
The three adjusting screws from front to rear are as follows:
1. Trigger weight.
2. Trigger stop.
3. Front trigger stop (adjusts takeup travel).
Tank wrote:I have read a post by "Warren" which is nearly nine years old now, so rather than ressurecting the post this is what he wrote bwith regard to the AERON Chameleon:
The Chameleon was developed directly from the 5-shot B96. This is why it cocks itself automatically. The trigger is a long roll typical of many Euro semi autos, the theory being you keep the finger moving smoothly, and timed and rapid fire is a lot more successful. Of course some people find being positive on trigger release and NOT stopping more difficult in slow fire. Basically, if you adopt a stop/start approach with a roll trigger the results won't be very good. On the other hand, driving the trigger, and "steering" the front sight with the trigger movement, resulting in a quicker release, can work spectacularly well.
Now, I have a Chameleon and I love it. I came accross this post because I am looking to adjust the trigger. I have exactly the same issue, the terrific long travel of the first stage. But I also have the result that Warren alludes to - I can be really good with this gun on a good day. I am definately going to experiment with reducing the travel but does anyone have any pointers for shooting with this style of trigger?
As I have said, I like the gun and wish to improve with it and for the sake of completeness I have it's bigger brother the B96 which is really a lot of gun for a very modest amount of money. Fun to shoot.
This article contains the essential elements of using a roll trigger. You need to learn to be very aggressive with the roll, as stopping and starting your pull again, leads to disaster.
In slow fire, is is easy to develop a hesitation error, and the best drill I have found is to practice slow fire with turning targets, and only allow yourself enough time with the target facing to get the shot off quickly and smoothly. I would suggest no more than six to eight seconds if you start at the ready position, less if you start with the gun up, as the target turns.
Isabel1130 wrote:
This article contains the essential elements of using a roll trigger. You need to learn to be very aggressive with the roll, as stopping and starting your pull again, leads to disaster.
In slow fire, is is easy to develop a hesitation error, and the best drill I have found is to practice slow fire with turning targets, and only allow yourself enough time with the target facing to get the shot off quickly and smoothly. I would suggest no more than six to eight seconds if you start at the ready position, less if you start with the gun up, as the target turns.
This is an excellent idea, time limit the shot so I have to get it over with. This is the sort of advice I am looking for really.
Many years agon when I started out shooting I read all of the articles I could about actually taking the shot. I was "misled" by an article that said "some of the best marksmen have the perfect touch to squeeze the trigger just as it should be". Thus followed many (wasted) months trying to "squeeze" the trigger. If the author had gone into detail I may not have been in a blind alley for so long. On the bright side - it now makes me look at advice from as many different angles of interpretation I can think of!
I will try taking the shot quickly and report back.
Isabel1130 wrote:
This article contains the essential elements of using a roll trigger. You need to learn to be very aggressive with the roll, as stopping and starting your pull again, leads to disaster.
In slow fire, is is easy to develop a hesitation error, and the best drill I have found is to practice slow fire with turning targets, and only allow yourself enough time with the target facing to get the shot off quickly and smoothly. I would suggest no more than six to eight seconds if you start at the ready position, less if you start with the gun up, as the target turns.
This is an excellent idea, time limit the shot so I have to get it over with. This is the sort of advice I am looking for really.
Many years agon when I started out shooting I read all of the articles I could about actually taking the shot. I was "misled" by an article that said "some of the best marksmen have the perfect touch to squeeze the trigger just as it should be". Thus followed many (wasted) months trying to "squeeze" the trigger. If the author had gone into detail I may not have been in a blind alley for so long. On the bright side - it now makes me look at advice from as many different angles of interpretation I can think of!
I will try taking the shot quickly and report back.
I think you will also find with a roll trigger, you may need to use a lot of trigger finger to get a smooth steady pull with no hesitation. Try thinking about curling the tip of your trigger finger back towards the grip. Some experimentation will tell you where your finger needs to be to get the smooth quick motion you need for a roll trigger. I suggest that you place the first joint of your trigger finger in the middle of the trigger and adjust from there.
Brian Zins explained this to me at his clinic four years ago, but it took me a long time to understand the "why" of what he is saying.
Wow this fits with what I have been trying to achieve in trigger control. I happen to have the B98 5 shot and had almost stopped using it for practice because of the longer trigger.
After a couple of recent matches with typically 8 acceptable grouped shots on target and 2 undesired flyers. I am finally getting that my trigger is not smooth and continuous. Happened to shoot the B96 over the past 2 days and really started to focus on smooth continuous pull and not waiting. Well last nights targets were remarkable (for me anyway). I think I am getting it. Now transferring that feel to pardini sp and GT 45 is my next challenge.
Thought it was neat to see the above notes fit exactly what I was working through.