At some point I'll need to clean up the parts and replace the seals on my Pardini K58. I'm pretty handy but don't want to "learn on the job". I have a parts diagram. I saw that there were some older links online that explained the job, but they appear to be dead.
Also, I'm curious where a properly tuned K58 should be clocking on chrony?
Thanks
Pardini K58 - Replacing seals advice
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- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:52 pm
- Location: Chandler, AZ
The seals on my K58 went out a few months ago. I ordered a new set of seals from Larry's Guns. There are like 3 or 4 seals, and the package was expensive, maybe $26 (the exact number escapes me). I looked in to replacing the seals, and there are some online tutorials. However, the online tutorials don't show the replacement of the valve seals. They basically said leave the valve seal alone or have a professional replace it. Since that was the one that had gone bad, I just sent my gun and seals to our host, Pilkington, for replacement.
When the time comes, you should probably just send it to Pilkington. I would skip purchasing the seals. All but one are common airgun seals. I'm not sure about the final one.
Good luck!
-John
When the time comes, you should probably just send it to Pilkington. I would skip purchasing the seals. All but one are common airgun seals. I'm not sure about the final one.
Good luck!
-John
Hi Rover, I tried the JSB Green and I also liked them. Here's my question:Rover wrote:I chronographed my K58 with light pellets and the slowest were about 480fps and ran into the 490s with quicker ones.
I recommend RWS Basic or Hobby in that gun, but if you like spending money JSB Green has consistently been the most accurate pellet tested by me in any gun.
What headsize gave your pistols the best acccuracy in your various pistols?
I also like the RWS Basics, but we don't get a headsize choice with them.
Thanks for your response, because I'm ready to order a sleeve of JSB Greens..
Tony
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I guess I'll have to speak frankly: I don't give a shit about head size (it seems to be irrelevant). I go with the batch that shoots well. Pilk has said many times here that it was the lot number that counted and for pistol shooters it didn't matter. I agree.
I tested for pellet weight, too. Lighter pellets cut nicer holes and are at least as accurate as heavy one (more so in my testing). Don Nygord told me it didn't matter. Again, I agree.
For myself, I use the RWS Basic except when I'm using up pellets that, while they may be more accurate, are not enough more accurate to fool with (or to pay more for), but are left over from testing. Basically, I'm cheap and I don't feel I'm handicapping myself!
Many here feel better when using the more expensive stuff and that's fine, but sometimes real life kicks in.
I tested for pellet weight, too. Lighter pellets cut nicer holes and are at least as accurate as heavy one (more so in my testing). Don Nygord told me it didn't matter. Again, I agree.
For myself, I use the RWS Basic except when I'm using up pellets that, while they may be more accurate, are not enough more accurate to fool with (or to pay more for), but are left over from testing. Basically, I'm cheap and I don't feel I'm handicapping myself!
Many here feel better when using the more expensive stuff and that's fine, but sometimes real life kicks in.
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