Hi,
I have taken up 10m match and purchased my first 10m rifle (Air Arms CZ/S200T). It is a basic one but is more accurate than i am at the moment. It is intended as a starter and to be fair to it its not too bad . However the sights sytem that AA provide is to be generous, poor. Im looking at a sights and im a bit unsure. I think i will need a riser as its a little bit low on the gun for comfort. If i was to put together the following:
http://www.edinkillie.co.uk/ecatalog/g ... Path=44_18 gehmann 590
http://www.edinkillie.co.uk/ecatalog/ge ... Path=44_45 gehment iris
http://www.edinkillie.co.uk/ecatalog/an ... Path=44_21 anschutz raisers(im unsure about these as there is 2 versions)
http://www.edinkillie.co.uk/ecatalog/ce ... Path=44_48 front tunnel
How would that sit? Can anyone suggest better for the same type of money?
Thanks
Andy
Advice on sighting system
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Advice on sighting system
Last edited by acrybb on Sat Nov 24, 2012 6:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ShootingSight
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I recommend adding a corrective lens.
The relaxed human eye will focus at infinity, while the perfect focal point for a shooter is about 2meters from you. This is so that you centralize your depth of field, so the front sight just fits in the near side of your depth of field, and the target (effectively at optical infinity) just fits in the far edge of the depth of field.
In order to achieve this, you can do it two ways:
First option is to shoot while holding the ciliary muscle in your eye under continual tension. The second option is to add a lens which shifts your relaxed focal point from infinity to 2 meters, so your ideal focus is achieved while the eye is fully relaxed.
Lens math indicates that for most rifles, this is a +0.50 diopter lens, added to any distance prescription needs you have.
There are several ways to do this, and the best method might vary depending on your individual needs. Shooting glasses is a possibility, a fixed lens insert in the rear sight is another, and adjustable focus rear iris is another, or you can do a combination of the above.
The relaxed human eye will focus at infinity, while the perfect focal point for a shooter is about 2meters from you. This is so that you centralize your depth of field, so the front sight just fits in the near side of your depth of field, and the target (effectively at optical infinity) just fits in the far edge of the depth of field.
In order to achieve this, you can do it two ways:
First option is to shoot while holding the ciliary muscle in your eye under continual tension. The second option is to add a lens which shifts your relaxed focal point from infinity to 2 meters, so your ideal focus is achieved while the eye is fully relaxed.
Lens math indicates that for most rifles, this is a +0.50 diopter lens, added to any distance prescription needs you have.
There are several ways to do this, and the best method might vary depending on your individual needs. Shooting glasses is a possibility, a fixed lens insert in the rear sight is another, and adjustable focus rear iris is another, or you can do a combination of the above.
The Gehmann rearsight isn't a bad choice. A friend uses one for 50m/100yds. The elevation and windage adjustments are spring loaded, so should be consistent. It's a bit bulky, so you can't see much around it (i.e. wind flag for 50m/100yd smallbore), but it's much cheaper than the slimline sights like the Centra Spy.
If the foresight that came with the rifle will take M18/18mm/standard Anschutz elements, I'd try a selection of metal or persepx elements before buying a Centra tunnel. Nothing wrong with centra products, but you may not need to buy one immediately (my opinion, others may disagree).
Anschutz make two versions of their raiser blocks for a reason. The blocks shown in the link are for rifles made since 1987, which have an 11mm dovetail foresight mounting. older rifles have a different size and height dovetail for the foresight tunnel, so need a separate block.
Tim
If the foresight that came with the rifle will take M18/18mm/standard Anschutz elements, I'd try a selection of metal or persepx elements before buying a Centra tunnel. Nothing wrong with centra products, but you may not need to buy one immediately (my opinion, others may disagree).
Anschutz make two versions of their raiser blocks for a reason. The blocks shown in the link are for rifles made since 1987, which have an 11mm dovetail foresight mounting. older rifles have a different size and height dovetail for the foresight tunnel, so need a separate block.
Tim
so the 11mm is the correct one i assume? My dovetails measurements across the top is 11mm.
I thought that correction lenses in the sights were not allowed? ok i had a proper read i understand what your talking about shooting sight. Can you show me on the website what i would be looking for and how to use them. My right eye is -1.0 so i assume therefore i would need a +1.5 correction lens?
I was thinking can you not get a cross-hair style insert for the front sight instead of the regular O shape so that you have a visible line for windage & elevation.
I suppose i could always line up my sights so that the right edge of the O lines to the edge of the target and then use the metal supports which hold the O to line up elevations
Thanks for the advice folks :)
Andy
I thought that correction lenses in the sights were not allowed? ok i had a proper read i understand what your talking about shooting sight. Can you show me on the website what i would be looking for and how to use them. My right eye is -1.0 so i assume therefore i would need a +1.5 correction lens?
I was thinking can you not get a cross-hair style insert for the front sight instead of the regular O shape so that you have a visible line for windage & elevation.
I suppose i could always line up my sights so that the right edge of the O lines to the edge of the target and then use the metal supports which hold the O to line up elevations
Thanks for the advice folks :)
Andy
Your maths is slightly out; -1.0 + 0.5 = -0.5.
There are foresight elements that are a crosshair, but I don't think anyone uses one for air or smallbore. What some folks use is a ring with crosshair supports. I'm not quite sure I understand your explanation of how you want to use the crosshair though. It sounds as if you intend to use these to aim, rather than the ring. The cross bars are realy there as an artificial horizon, to check the rifle is level. Use the ring to aim, by looking for an even band of light between the inside edge and the target.
There are foresight elements that are a crosshair, but I don't think anyone uses one for air or smallbore. What some folks use is a ring with crosshair supports. I'm not quite sure I understand your explanation of how you want to use the crosshair though. It sounds as if you intend to use these to aim, rather than the ring. The cross bars are realy there as an artificial horizon, to check the rifle is level. Use the ring to aim, by looking for an even band of light between the inside edge and the target.
thanks for the correction lol. I think you might be right my maths was out :) i was thinking if im -1.0 and put in a +1.5 i wouldnt need my specs. However i dont think thats right either. (not maths wise just correction wise)
Yes cross-hairs for aiming. I kinda struggle to get the even ring of light thats the problem. So i was looking for something i could use to line up on the bottom and side of the target circle so i had a solid reference point rather than a judgment.
Yes cross-hairs for aiming. I kinda struggle to get the even ring of light thats the problem. So i was looking for something i could use to line up on the bottom and side of the target circle so i had a solid reference point rather than a judgment.
acrybb,
How large (or small) of a front aperture are you using?
It may seem counter-productive, but too small an aperture can make it harder to discern proper centering of the bull. Try a large one and see if it helps.
Most use about 4.0 or 4.2 front aperture to begin with.
How large (or small) of a front aperture are you using?
It may seem counter-productive, but too small an aperture can make it harder to discern proper centering of the bull. Try a large one and see if it helps.
Most use about 4.0 or 4.2 front aperture to begin with.
Last edited by Pat McCoy on Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1 - There (hopefully) comes a 'eureka moment' when you realise that your inbuilt centering ability is far superior to any conscious attemptacrybb wrote:How so?
I have trouble trying to judge an even ring round the target so i would have thought having a solid visual reference would be a good thing?
Andy
2 - Plus, trying to align the sight to a specific part of the target means that you will consciously, or unconsciously, be focussing at/on the target