Just 3 or 4 shots with the new Pardini K12.
1) Balance and weight are more or less the same of the old K10.
2) The trigger is new and very, very, very clean, and dry. It seems extremely easy both to control and to break the shot. So, the trigger is not similar to the trigger of the LP10 which - IMO - is not so easy.
3) The absorber seems to work properly. (But I think I've felt a little vibration just after each shot).
3) The trigger blade has a different angle, but I did not realize that!
K12
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Here are Pardini's official images of the K10 and the K12, cropped to compare the trigger angles in relation to their grips and frames. It doesn't seem that they have updated the trigger to allow for lateral, or roll adjustment, though this is easily done by trimming one side of the trigger post tip nearest to the base plate, allowing the shooter to adjust angle to be perpendicular to the finger. Seems odd to me, as I've modified mine this way and find it much more comfortable and that it eliminated any lateral push/pull tendencies once I found the correct angle.
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Re: K12
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4) There is no backlash and overtravel when the shot breaks. (But that is old news, since the K2, the K10 also have no backlash).
5) I've got the impression that surfaces are well polished and - possibly - more resistant to rust etc. This was a problem with the K2 and the K10, as far as I know.
6) Unfortunately the pressure gauge is the same of K10. I do not like it because sometimes it does not work properly. The old one (K2) was much better IMO.
4) There is no backlash and overtravel when the shot breaks. (But that is old news, since the K2, the K10 also have no backlash).
5) I've got the impression that surfaces are well polished and - possibly - more resistant to rust etc. This was a problem with the K2 and the K10, as far as I know.
6) Unfortunately the pressure gauge is the same of K10. I do not like it because sometimes it does not work properly. The old one (K2) was much better IMO.
Yeah, the inaccuracy of the gauges on my K10 cylinders is a bit annoying, saying 250 when the manometer of my FX/Gehmann pump says just 210 and not really going up much when the pump says 230.
Since you've mentioned the trigger angle thing and I responded comparing them and mentioned my roll angle modification, I might as well show how that works here. Not intending to hijack the thread; it seems topical, and my hope is that somewhat at Pardini takes note and might offer a more adjustable trigger mount in future.
Here's what I did to enable the lateral slant/roll of the trigger to be adjustable. I also mounted the base rod using the rear threaded hole in the base plate, an option not mentioned in the manual but fairly obviously allowing more forward locating of the trigger for those with longer fingers. Also an animation showing how the trigger meets my finger at a right angle with this modification.
The rearward location of the base rod allows the trigger to go about 4mm further forward than the stock location. I've also cut down the trigger mounting post a few millimetres, cut off the same amount from the upper trigger shoe, and counter-bored the upper part of the threaded hole in the trigger shoe to allow moving it about 3mm closer to the barrel line. Might make a new shoe sometime with a more angled threaded hole like that of the K12, as it seems a good idea to prevent the finger pulling so much at the base of the trigger as it does now, more of a centred pull.
Since you've mentioned the trigger angle thing and I responded comparing them and mentioned my roll angle modification, I might as well show how that works here. Not intending to hijack the thread; it seems topical, and my hope is that somewhat at Pardini takes note and might offer a more adjustable trigger mount in future.
Here's what I did to enable the lateral slant/roll of the trigger to be adjustable. I also mounted the base rod using the rear threaded hole in the base plate, an option not mentioned in the manual but fairly obviously allowing more forward locating of the trigger for those with longer fingers. Also an animation showing how the trigger meets my finger at a right angle with this modification.
The rearward location of the base rod allows the trigger to go about 4mm further forward than the stock location. I've also cut down the trigger mounting post a few millimetres, cut off the same amount from the upper trigger shoe, and counter-bored the upper part of the threaded hole in the trigger shoe to allow moving it about 3mm closer to the barrel line. Might make a new shoe sometime with a more angled threaded hole like that of the K12, as it seems a good idea to prevent the finger pulling so much at the base of the trigger as it does now, more of a centred pull.