Toz 35 Modifications
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Hi folks !
I introduce myself briefly : Régis, french pistol shooter, with a Morini 162EI, and a TOZ 35 M , and i'm very impressed with the mods you've done to this pistol !
I find mine too heavy, and after having drilled the frame, I removed some pieces of steel, as shown at the beginning of this thread.
Here is the result :
But the loss of weight doesn't satisfy me (about 50 grammes), so I've began to make a side-lever, that I want to attach with screws, as on the modification made by Jsealc21.
But I have some questions, again ...
I've done sonme markings on the original lever, for the drilling for the attachmentscrews : do you think their position is right ?
Could you post a pic of the original lever, showing the position of the holes ?
Between the actual and the new lever, there will be a spacer :
And here is the new lever, made from a piece of 3 mm thick :
Do you think I've forgotten something ?
I introduce myself briefly : Régis, french pistol shooter, with a Morini 162EI, and a TOZ 35 M , and i'm very impressed with the mods you've done to this pistol !
I find mine too heavy, and after having drilled the frame, I removed some pieces of steel, as shown at the beginning of this thread.
Here is the result :
But the loss of weight doesn't satisfy me (about 50 grammes), so I've began to make a side-lever, that I want to attach with screws, as on the modification made by Jsealc21.
But I have some questions, again ...
I've done sonme markings on the original lever, for the drilling for the attachmentscrews : do you think their position is right ?
Could you post a pic of the original lever, showing the position of the holes ?
Between the actual and the new lever, there will be a spacer :
And here is the new lever, made from a piece of 3 mm thick :
Do you think I've forgotten something ?
Rather that 2 screws, I would use 1 screw (m4) and 2 pins (dia 2mm).
The first few I did I used just 2 screws and they can work loose, after I swithced to using 1 screw and 2 pins there was no problems with loosening or movement.
Drill and tap the screw hole in both parts, then assemble to check position. Once that's OK, drill and ream the pin holes while it's still assembled.
The first few I did I used just 2 screws and they can work loose, after I swithced to using 1 screw and 2 pins there was no problems with loosening or movement.
Drill and tap the screw hole in both parts, then assemble to check position. Once that's OK, drill and ream the pin holes while it's still assembled.
Yeah ! Great mod !
Its the first time I see this one.
I can see you use a springloaded ball to index the breech in closed&locked position.
It's the part of the modification that frightens me the most ...
I had thought I could use this device :
I would screw it through the new lever, after drilling and tappering (M5).
Its the first time I see this one.
I can see you use a springloaded ball to index the breech in closed&locked position.
It's the part of the modification that frightens me the most ...
I had thought I could use this device :
I would screw it through the new lever, after drilling and tappering (M5).
Where did you find those neat threaded detent pins?rem.44 wrote:Yeah ! Great mod !
Its the first time I see this one.
I can see you use a springloaded ball to index the breech in closed&locked position.
It's the part of the modification that frightens me the most ...
I had thought I could use this device :
I would screw it through the new lever, after drilling and tappering (M5).
In the US, Reid Supply has a good selection of such items. along with lots of other wonderful fiddly bits:lxvnrsw wrote:Where did you find those neat threaded detent pins?
http://www.reidsupply.com/products/tool ... -plungers/
I've dealt with them for years, and have been very happy with their service, stock & selection.
For Europe (and maybe the US), I found here :
http://www.otelo.fr/fr/catalogue/pousso ... acier.html
http://www.otelo.fr/fr/catalogue/pousso ... acier.html
- chuckjordan
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 11:00 pm
- Location: Central Virginia
Re: toz 35
May I ask which tool (the manufacturer) you used?agentr wrote:I went with the 11*. There is no protection for a flush cut crown. The reason I went with a crown cutter and not a lathe is that it VERY difficult to ensure your new crown will be perpendicular to the bore UNLESS you use the crown cutter. Furthermore, if you don't have a 35M, the front sight shroud is a pressed fit, and will be difficult to re-align if removed. The 11* cutter, cuts just inside the shroud, so you can cut it in place. This crown achieves groups under .34" at 50 meters. Your choice?
Re: toz 35
While you're awaiting a reply from "agentr", I'll mention the piloted cutters I use. The 3/4 x 11* is Brownell's #080-586-750WB [bottom] which is made by http://maford.com . The 1" diameter 90* facing cutter is Midway USA's #743874. It's made by http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.comchuckjordan wrote:....May I ask which tool (the manufacturer) you used?
toz 35
Chuck Jordan... I used the bottom tool from Brownells as posted by "zoned". I belive the manufacturer is Clymer but not sure. You can buy the tool from Brownells for about $75 IIRC. I rented the tool from
4-D reamer rentals for I think $30 and re-crowned three barrels with it. Be sure to order the "target" 22 cal pilot with the reamer. It has a tighter fit and will help to square up the cutter. Call 4-d and the guy there is very helpful. He sent me 3 different pilots to insure I got the best fit.
4-D reamer rentals for I think $30 and re-crowned three barrels with it. Be sure to order the "target" 22 cal pilot with the reamer. It has a tighter fit and will help to square up the cutter. Call 4-d and the guy there is very helpful. He sent me 3 different pilots to insure I got the best fit.
toz 35
Grips can be found all over the place but...be prepared to pay dearly.
Larry's guns out of Maine (larrysguns.com) has the grips most of the time in various conditions. Never seen his sell for less than $175 used. All the big mfg's make them for $300-$400. Nil grips, Morini, Fung...just do a search for "toz 35 grips for sale". You might get lucky and find some on this websites "buy and sell" forum for $150.
Larry's guns out of Maine (larrysguns.com) has the grips most of the time in various conditions. Never seen his sell for less than $175 used. All the big mfg's make them for $300-$400. Nil grips, Morini, Fung...just do a search for "toz 35 grips for sale". You might get lucky and find some on this websites "buy and sell" forum for $150.
Springer
Check egun.de
Here is some second hand inc Fore-end
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=3780566
Check egun.de
Here is some second hand inc Fore-end
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=3780566
That is exactly what I need however I am in the US and can't read a word of what is on there. I will see what I can do though.A74BEDLM wrote:Springer
Check egun.de
Here is some second hand inc Fore-end
http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=3780566
Thanks
Download Google Chrome and use as browser as automatic translation on it or goto www.egun.de and select american/english flag it will translate via Yahoo Babelfish.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:21 am
quelqu'un a des infos, des documents ou n'importe quoi qui pourrait m'informer sur comment on installe un levier d'armement sur un TOZ-35 sur le coté de l'arme (au lieu de le faire passé par la crosse en dessou) je sais que c'est possible. je veux pas le faire mais juste le savoir, pour comprendre un peu mieu le TOZ avec lequelle je tir quoi. merci
Il ya une entreprise en Allemagne appelé www.allermann.de qui permet de convertir votre Toz pour vous et s'adapter à un levier de chargement Steyr LP10 que le levier d'armement côté. Son environ € 400 à 500 selon si vous voulez une poignée Rink équipé ainsi en même temps que Centra Balance Bar.