I've read all the post regarding getting it calibrated here.
I have the USB model and tried moving the sensor on the barrel, forwared, back, side.
Stepped off Im a good 11 yards. But when I shoot the calibration shot is usually says 9.5meters. ???
I have hardwood floors and tried rug in front of target and rifle..Nothing.
I shoot my calibration shot, hits inside inner circle but at top, Shoot sighter, usually in the eight ring, but sometimes as far off as the 3 ring. Wherever it is I drag it to the center and shoot another sighter. Usually never gets any closer than the 8 ring. My shots are hitting where they are tracing, but not going when I'm hard on the 10 ring.
Any Thoughts?
Tenring
Cant get the Scatt to Calibrate either???
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
Cant get the Scatt to Calibrate either???
Last edited by tenring on Sun Jan 08, 2012 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I have some trouble with this as well and would also like help with this problem; except when i shoot my calibration shot, its above and just outside the inner ring and am having trouble trying to get it any lower. Im shooting at 10m and i know that i mounted it correctly. Also, i shoot at night so i know there cant be any IR interference from sunlight.
9.5 meters is 10.4 yards, probably exactly what you have set up.
The calibration shot somewhere in the inner ring will not determine that your first tracing shot is centered. Just drag to center, but only if you think you have released a good shot. Shoot several shots and see where you are shooting and if you have settled in.
If you can't get the calibration shot to place somewhere in the inner ring, you will need to check your mounting, make sure it is not on a tapered section of the barrel.
Dennis L
The calibration shot somewhere in the inner ring will not determine that your first tracing shot is centered. Just drag to center, but only if you think you have released a good shot. Shoot several shots and see where you are shooting and if you have settled in.
If you can't get the calibration shot to place somewhere in the inner ring, you will need to check your mounting, make sure it is not on a tapered section of the barrel.
Dennis L
Wow how time go's by messing with this thing. I tinkered with it for 2-3 hours this afternoon and got nowhere and now another hour this evening. I got somewhere this time.
Maybe I'm learning just how sensitive this thing is?
This test session I tested around 16-18 ft. The calibration shot is closer to the middle this time. Not sure if it really matters though as I think it's just super sensitive.
I did..... as suggested..... shooting several shots before I dragged the shot to the center. In earlier test I'd drag and it would overshoot. This time I'd drag the shot about halfway and shoot five more and see what happened and readjust from there. I started holding the 10 ring 85-100% and shots were all holding the ten. Its amazing just how sensitive it is. Hopefully that's all it is........User unfamiliarity.
I think it is just very sensitive.
As for lights. We have those new floresent ??? light bulbs.
tenring
Maybe I'm learning just how sensitive this thing is?
This test session I tested around 16-18 ft. The calibration shot is closer to the middle this time. Not sure if it really matters though as I think it's just super sensitive.
I did..... as suggested..... shooting several shots before I dragged the shot to the center. In earlier test I'd drag and it would overshoot. This time I'd drag the shot about halfway and shoot five more and see what happened and readjust from there. I started holding the 10 ring 85-100% and shots were all holding the ten. Its amazing just how sensitive it is. Hopefully that's all it is........User unfamiliarity.
I think it is just very sensitive.
As for lights. We have those new floresent ??? light bulbs.
tenring
One shot is all the system requires. When you have a good shot you accept it and carry on. RIKA uses a different system, it produces the group centre for last 5 shots and allows you to centre it. I cannot recall what NOPTEL does.out of curiosity, how many shots are you suppose to take while in the "calibration mode" screen?
Rutty
You don't have to be in the inner ring for calibration.the outer ring is fine.
After you are through with that,just drug the bullet once to the center and than use your sight clicks like you would use it in normal shooting.
The Scatt is not so sensitive. Try to shoot from 9-11 meters. A very good prone shooter should be able to hold inside the x ring.
Scatt is the best training tool I know.
Guy.
After you are through with that,just drug the bullet once to the center and than use your sight clicks like you would use it in normal shooting.
The Scatt is not so sensitive. Try to shoot from 9-11 meters. A very good prone shooter should be able to hold inside the x ring.
Scatt is the best training tool I know.
Guy.
My findings after having spent all Christmas training with SCATT at home, dry firing at 6m:
Like Rutty says: if I shoot one good calibration shot (usually high in the inner ring) then the first sighting shot will be close to the bull. AS far as I can tell, it's only the last shot that counts for calibration.
Initially I tried one thickness of electrical tape under the front half of the sensor mounting to shim it to the center of the target but it wasn't really required once I got it all sorted out.
It seems very sensitive to cant and in the opposite direction to what I would expect - canting very hard to the left will put the shot out to the right, not canting enough will put it out to the left... Check that bubble.
To get the target scaled correctly the distance to the target should be measured from the rearsight (or the elbow) rather than the sensor, especially if you're shooting at shorter distances like under 5m as I was initially trying to do... When it came to live firing the aiming mark was HUGE in the foresight.
Setting the F-coefficient makes a big difference - the default setting of 75 will throw shots out of the hold pattern if there's rapid movement from pulse or trigger at the point of release.
Setting it to zero will show how good your basic aim is.
On both my rifles there is a tendency for the speed graph to show a rapid movement right after the shot is released - I don't know if it's me or something inherent in the rifle though.
Guy's suggestion about using the rifle sights to fine tune the point of aim is a good one - but when you can see the hold trace and see the shot hole and the difference between the two, which would you use to base your adjustment on?
Using SCATT I want to center the hold trace - if I went with the shot hole, I'd be making all sorts of sighting errors... Just like in real life.!
It is a fantastic training tool.
Like Rutty says: if I shoot one good calibration shot (usually high in the inner ring) then the first sighting shot will be close to the bull. AS far as I can tell, it's only the last shot that counts for calibration.
Initially I tried one thickness of electrical tape under the front half of the sensor mounting to shim it to the center of the target but it wasn't really required once I got it all sorted out.
It seems very sensitive to cant and in the opposite direction to what I would expect - canting very hard to the left will put the shot out to the right, not canting enough will put it out to the left... Check that bubble.
To get the target scaled correctly the distance to the target should be measured from the rearsight (or the elbow) rather than the sensor, especially if you're shooting at shorter distances like under 5m as I was initially trying to do... When it came to live firing the aiming mark was HUGE in the foresight.
Setting the F-coefficient makes a big difference - the default setting of 75 will throw shots out of the hold pattern if there's rapid movement from pulse or trigger at the point of release.
Setting it to zero will show how good your basic aim is.
On both my rifles there is a tendency for the speed graph to show a rapid movement right after the shot is released - I don't know if it's me or something inherent in the rifle though.
Guy's suggestion about using the rifle sights to fine tune the point of aim is a good one - but when you can see the hold trace and see the shot hole and the difference between the two, which would you use to base your adjustment on?
Using SCATT I want to center the hold trace - if I went with the shot hole, I'd be making all sorts of sighting errors... Just like in real life.!
It is a fantastic training tool.
Dear friends,
I'm using the Scatt for more than 10 years.
When you use it at 10meters as it should ne used,the device is not sensitive to cant! The F coefficient should be on 35 for small bore and 45 for air rifle.
It's to easy to make great triggering with the coefficient at 0.if the speed graph shows you that there is increase in speed at the moment of shot,it means that the rifle movement accelerates at that critical moment.work on your triggering.the best shooters tend to lower the velocity of movement towards the shot brake. Try to listen to your heart beat and make the shot when the pulse goes down!it takes a lot of training to do it,although many goodshooters are doing it unconsously.a good shot will be when the yellow line(last second)is inside the shot.that means you had a good hold and good triggering. For prone the L (speed of movement) should be under 40 for a good shooter,and for air rifle under 13.
Hope it was helpful,
Guy.
I'm using the Scatt for more than 10 years.
When you use it at 10meters as it should ne used,the device is not sensitive to cant! The F coefficient should be on 35 for small bore and 45 for air rifle.
It's to easy to make great triggering with the coefficient at 0.if the speed graph shows you that there is increase in speed at the moment of shot,it means that the rifle movement accelerates at that critical moment.work on your triggering.the best shooters tend to lower the velocity of movement towards the shot brake. Try to listen to your heart beat and make the shot when the pulse goes down!it takes a lot of training to do it,although many goodshooters are doing it unconsously.a good shot will be when the yellow line(last second)is inside the shot.that means you had a good hold and good triggering. For prone the L (speed of movement) should be under 40 for a good shooter,and for air rifle under 13.
Hope it was helpful,
Guy.
Ken,
I think that the jump in speed just after the moment of shot is related to the movement of the firing pin. If you are not using a fired case to absorb some of the energy released try that and see if the jump goes away.
The top speed graph is averaged over all the shots and you can see a little hump in the center. This is indicative of the pulse movement induced in the gun (~1 Hz). The bottom graph is the selected shot. The "fine structure" is the muscle tension movements (~10 Hz). You probably can improve both a little by properly adjusting the sling and being truly relaxed. However, there is a limit as long as you are alive.
Without seeing the trace for that particular shot that is about as much as I can say.
Marcus
I think that the jump in speed just after the moment of shot is related to the movement of the firing pin. If you are not using a fired case to absorb some of the energy released try that and see if the jump goes away.
The top speed graph is averaged over all the shots and you can see a little hump in the center. This is indicative of the pulse movement induced in the gun (~1 Hz). The bottom graph is the selected shot. The "fine structure" is the muscle tension movements (~10 Hz). You probably can improve both a little by properly adjusting the sling and being truly relaxed. However, there is a limit as long as you are alive.
Without seeing the trace for that particular shot that is about as much as I can say.
Marcus
I'm really liking this machine. Especially how it sounds it should work. But I just wish I could get it to be consistent for me. I still don't feel like Its working right.
I shoot a calibration shot in the circle, shoot three sighters to see if they are consistently in the same area. If so, I'll drag to the center.
After that my shots are still in the 8 ring sometimes touching the ten. I then make some sight adjustments and that gets me closer. If I cant just a hair it's off the paper. Not all the time, but sometimes. That confuses the heck out of me.?? Why?
If I take a break and set the rifle down or move the handstop. I'm off paper and have to recalibrate. Confused again...Why
I now have no hair!
tenring
I shoot a calibration shot in the circle, shoot three sighters to see if they are consistently in the same area. If so, I'll drag to the center.
After that my shots are still in the 8 ring sometimes touching the ten. I then make some sight adjustments and that gets me closer. If I cant just a hair it's off the paper. Not all the time, but sometimes. That confuses the heck out of me.?? Why?
If I take a break and set the rifle down or move the handstop. I'm off paper and have to recalibrate. Confused again...Why
I now have no hair!
tenring
Yes prone on hard laminate satin finish floor. I'm shooting down a hallway. First part of flooring is tile in the kitchen. No windows. Target is over a return air duct so it would only be a cool air flow.
I did a test though with it on a rest and got consistent results. easily stayed in ten ring. Its only when I move around stop look over at the scatt and start shooting again that is go's way off and I have to recalibrate or resight. I never get past shooting sighters to shoot a match and start collecting data.
tenring
I did a test though with it on a rest and got consistent results. easily stayed in ten ring. Its only when I move around stop look over at the scatt and start shooting again that is go's way off and I have to recalibrate or resight. I never get past shooting sighters to shoot a match and start collecting data.
tenring