flolo wrote:But, if you have to angle the blade, isn't it the wrong gun for you in the first place?
Nope not at all - The very reason the manufacturer created the option is because no gun will fit "perfectly." Another fact to consider is that there are an extremely limited number of guns of this quality in the marketplace from which to choose. My guess is that like most of us, he must find a way to make what he already has work for him. He doesnt have the luxury of choosing another gun\equipment from a wide assortment as perhaps an Olympic competitor might.
Sure, he could start modifying the grip but he's already told us that wont work. Sure he could spend hundreds of dollars buying new grips with absolutely NO guarantee the expenditure will resolve the problem.
OR - he could simply start with the easiest choice by tweaking the angle of the blade at NO cost and see how it works.
Take a Dremel to the grip and see what you can do. I'm sure that any grip is rarely perfect unless the maker is customizing to your hand, not just a drawing or a size chart. Your trigger finger will move forward as material is removed from the back of the grip and also by reducing the width of the grip. Just work slowly and keep trying the fit so that the gun stays firmly in control and pointing the right way.
If you want to get the stippling effect, use a nail set or similar punch and a small mallet and tippy-tap away. A light once-over with 240 or 320 grit paper, a little linseed oil and you may finally have the custom grip you need.
The dogmatic insistence on the trigger blade being absolutely square to the bore is not only myopic, as Orionshooter has pointed out, but it's absurd from a purely physical point of view. Your trigger finger does not move absolutely square to the bore.
Take a open-minded look at your trigger finger motion while you are simulating holding your gun. You will see that the finger bends at 2 joints - not just one - and that the motion is quite complex. There is no doubt a single point during that motion when it is perpendicular to the bore of the simulated gun you are holding. But that's a single point, and the trigger - especially if 2-stage - travels a certain distance.
Maybe you can set the trigger reach so that the shot-break point coincides with the exact point in your trigger finger motion that is square to the bore, but all the trigger travel before and after that point will not be square to the bore. It's simple physics.
Manufacturers include the trigger blade rotational adjustment so that individual shooters can compensate for the peculiarities of their own trigger finger motion, so as to achieve the desired result: minimal movement of the gun during the triggering process. It's only the result that matters, not whether or not some conceptual taboo has been broken.
FredB wrote:..... but all the trigger travel before and after that point will not be square to the bore. It's simple physics.
....and, IMHO, irrelevant.
I couldn't care less what the angle is between my finger and trigger apart from at the point of trigger break. At that point I want the force on the trigger to be perpendicular to the bore; certainly horizontally if not vertically.
FredB wrote:..... but all the trigger travel before and after that point will not be square to the bore. It's simple physics.
....and, IMHO, irrelevant.
I couldn't care less what the angle is between my finger and trigger apart from at the point of trigger break. At that point I want the force on the trigger to be perpendicular to the bore; certainly horizontally if not vertically.
David,
Normally I would defer to your superior experience, but in this case I remain convinced that lateral forces on the trigger are significant even when they don't occur exactly at the point of trigger break. The motion at that point is one (admittedly most important) part of a larger motion that includes pre- and post-travel.
But let's put this a different way: do you agree with the prior posters that the trigger blade MUST be kept exactly perpendicular to the bore, regardless of any other consideration?
To me, grip is everything. This includes finger placement on the trigger blade throughout its travel or movement. As well as modifying the grip you need to consider making new trigger blades, and blade holders, which my be lower, higher and perhaps offset from centreline.
FredB wrote:But let's put this a different way: do you agree with the prior posters that the trigger blade MUST be kept exactly perpendicular to the bore, regardless of any other consideration?
Not particularly.
The important thing is that the force applied to the trigger at the moment of shot release should not disturb the sight alignment and should therefore be perpendicular to the bore.
Forces that would disturb the bore vertically are much more likely to be counteracted by the hold on the pistol than horizontal ones.
I do agree with them however that the position and angle of the trigger should be set so that the force is perpendicular to the bore even for a "lost concentration" shot.
Don't take this as advice, but an observation. And bear in mind that I'm not an AP shooter, but more inclined towards RF.
I could adjust my MG2E RF so that the first pad of my finger would sit perpendicular to the barrel right on the trigger. But at that point, when I exert pressure on the trigger, I slightly pull the gun to the right. I have instead moved the trigger slightly forward and angled it to the right, and find that in this position, the finger movement is more neutral. I am pulling straight back, it's just that the finger is slightly less bent.
Maybe it's just my joints that could be more flexible or something. But my finger just won't move the right way if the trigger is in the "correct" position. And when it's further forward, tilting it sideways allows the force to be exerted closer to the centerline than if the contact were between the finger and the edge of the trigger. Don't know whether it really makes a difference, but it certainly feels better against the finger.
I couldn't say that I solved my squeezing problem but I had a couple of triggers done that not only lessened the distance from the web of the hand to the face of the trigger blade but also modified it with a "skewed" face to accommodate the direction/angle of my trigger finger, thus giving me a much better feel as I squeeze. It somehow lessened the "torque" I was experiencing with the original trigger's curve. See links below. You might want to try this "fix".
