Morini 162EI problem

ken4all · Post by **ken4all** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 2:38 pm

Yesterday during a match I noticed that the loading lever became harder to pull backwards, until it became too hard and I had to stop my match.
It goes smooth the first third of the distance afterwards it seems to block, although with enough force I can still cock it.
The gun is no 2 years old.
Of course I could send it to a gunsmith but I have another match in a few days.
Might be nice if I could solve it myself.

Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks,
K.

RandomShotz · Post by **RandomShotz** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 3:54 pm

I'm guessing that the point at which the loading lever becomes hard to move is the point at which the bolt engages the striker. I had a problem like this when I bought a used Morini CM162.

First, try cleaning the gun. Oils tend to become more viscous over time as the more volatile components evaporate and if dust or dirt gets into it, you end up with an abrasive sludge. The Morini comes apart and goes back together easily. The Pilkguns 10P files has a good exploded drawing if you don't have your manual. As a cleaner, I've used WD-40, Hoppe's #9 or Kroil but none of them is adequate as a lubricant. Once everything is clean and dry, I like to use a light application of Break-Free CLP but YMMV.

Roger

Bob-Riegl · Post by **Bob-Riegl** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:23 pm

Hope I don't sound like a simpleton---mine locks up on me when the pressure is too low??????? "Doc

RandomShotz · Post by **RandomShotz** » Mon Nov 14, 2011 9:11 pm

Yeah, there's a latch on the left side of the frame that won't permit the loading lever to move at all when the remaining pressure in the cylinder is too low - keeps you from throwing bricks. What ken4all described was a lever that moved from the starting point and suddenly became stiff.

I should add that if the problem is a dirty mechanism, it is possible to do permanent damage to the frame if you continue to force the lever. The pin on the side of the bolt which engages the lever can scrape the anodizing off of the slot it rides in. The aluminum under the anodized surface is softer, and will start to erode quickly.

Roger

yana · Post by **yana** » Tue Nov 15, 2011 1:34 pm

Probably low on air..you never had this before??? Its in the manual..
It blocks at 80 or 90bar iirc. Just fill it up. You dont fill it up before a match?

ken4all · Post by **ken4all** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 3:22 am

Nothing to do with the pressure, it was indeed the lever getting rougher half way.
Yesterday I disassembled the pistol and couldn't find anything wrong.
I had to stop at the bolt and striker, don't know how to remove them, any ideas?
After assembling it worked fine. Had a practice yesterday of 80 shots without any problems.

RandomShotz · Post by **RandomShotz** » Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:22 am

Glad to hear it's working smoothly again.

In order to get to the striker and the bolt you need to remove the plate from the back of the frame. Remove the torx head screw, part number 16078. (I'm working from the diagram on Pilkguns 10P files) and the plate come off. There is a little pressure from the striker spring, but only a little - nothing is going to come flying out when you take it apart. Don't mess with the little screw above it, 16077 - that one controls pellet velocity. If you want to free the bolt, you have to push the pin out from the right side of the frame - it isn't very tight on mine so it drifts out easily. But if you just take back plate off, the striker and spring can drop out. When you put the striker back, release the sear by pushing the solenoid plate up which will allow the striker to fall all the way to the rest position. The solenoid plate is part number 162088T2 and it looks like a disk just below the solenoid. It sounds way more complicated than it is - the process is obvious if you have the gun and diagrams in front of you.

However, if the pistol is working after disassembly and reassembly as far as you took it, perhaps the problem was just that the screw from the loading lever came loose and the lever was allowed to wobble and bind up. You might want to try a drop of low strength Lock-Tite on that screw if it happens again.

Good luck in the match!

Roger

ken4all · Post by **ken4all** » Wed Nov 23, 2011 4:51 am

The screw from the lever was not loose, it was even hard to get loose.

I got the striker and bolt out, cleaned everything and put new teflon fat on.
All works very smooth now.

I payd attention to not touch that little screw that controls pellet velocity but yesterday at practice I noticed a different sound from the first shot.
Pellet velocity is lower, it took a few shots to get used to, but now... what a pleasure to shoot.

I will try to measure the speed later on, it was at 155 m/s before.

Thanks for the help RandomShotz