Match Air Pistols
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Match Air Pistols
What is the best match air pistol for a person with short fingers
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I have a short index finger in my shooting hand, coupled with a muscular (thick) hand, so this was always my worst bruden shooting pistol.
I did choose the LP10 two years ago remembering my old LP1C: that is, even if I have to settle the trigger blade in its rearmost position, the adjustments (v.g. rotating) than can be made in grip position allow me to have a normal reach.
Also there is a lot of wood that can be shaven off the part that touches the web of the hand.
Haven't tried the Walther, though, but I found the Steyr vastly superior in that count when compared against the M162 or the FWB44.
I did choose the LP10 two years ago remembering my old LP1C: that is, even if I have to settle the trigger blade in its rearmost position, the adjustments (v.g. rotating) than can be made in grip position allow me to have a normal reach.
Also there is a lot of wood that can be shaven off the part that touches the web of the hand.
Haven't tried the Walther, though, but I found the Steyr vastly superior in that count when compared against the M162 or the FWB44.
I think this is the key piece of advice.renzo wrote:Also there is a lot of wood that can be shaven off the part that touches the web of the hand.
Whatever pistol you settle for, you will have to be brave and attack the grip with a Dremel in that area, there is usually plenty of wood. Do it with the grip removed and keep going till you just break through on the corners (like a 1mm hole).
Back in time, I had succesively the FWB's models 2, 10 and 20. With all of them it was the same situation: to reach the trigger blade adequatelly I had to tilt it 45º to the right, out of the line of the triggerguard.
So, when EVERYTHING was OK in the shot release, it was alright; but anytime I fouled up even lightly the breaking process, the 8's began to appear with disgusting frequency.
I then (1993) bought the LP1C and could overcome this "shortage" (never better applied) of trigger reach. Afterwards, I quit competing and sold the pistol.
Some years ago I got the itch again and started training with my old Model 10, borrowed from its present owner but with my old Morini grips I had kept for myself, tailored to my taste, and found the old burden resurfacing, so after trying a friend's FWB 44 (with my grips) and another's M162EI, I grab an opportunity for a VERY much reduced in price new LP10 mechanical one buddy had bought for himself in Europe and never used after discovering he didn't like training that much.
So far, that's all I can say about it (Hi, Forrest). I know some experiences are truly intransferable, and most probably the particular suitability of the ergonomics of "X" pistol to "Y" person is one of them.
So, when EVERYTHING was OK in the shot release, it was alright; but anytime I fouled up even lightly the breaking process, the 8's began to appear with disgusting frequency.
I then (1993) bought the LP1C and could overcome this "shortage" (never better applied) of trigger reach. Afterwards, I quit competing and sold the pistol.
Some years ago I got the itch again and started training with my old Model 10, borrowed from its present owner but with my old Morini grips I had kept for myself, tailored to my taste, and found the old burden resurfacing, so after trying a friend's FWB 44 (with my grips) and another's M162EI, I grab an opportunity for a VERY much reduced in price new LP10 mechanical one buddy had bought for himself in Europe and never used after discovering he didn't like training that much.
So far, that's all I can say about it (Hi, Forrest). I know some experiences are truly intransferable, and most probably the particular suitability of the ergonomics of "X" pistol to "Y" person is one of them.
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Trigger finger
I feel your pain Richard. Arthritis has caused my trigger finger to arch at the middle joint and the first joint is locked up. I have three air pistols that I use and trigger reach is not a problem for me. An FWBC55 also a FWB65 and from the past a Crossman Skanaker. The adjustments on the C55 and the Skanaker are very flexible. For some reason the FWB65 grips just fit my hand well. Good luck on your search.
My limited experience is the Pardini K58 fit my small hand better than the Styer LP10 that I tried or my Walther CPM-1.
On the LP10, I don't remember what size the grip of the Styer was, or how much wood is available to carve into.
On the CPM-1, the back of the grip where the web of the thumb goes has been carved as deep as it can be, and I just barely reach the trigger. I do not know if the later Walthers are also similarly sized. The Germans seem to be much larger than me.
On the LP10, I don't remember what size the grip of the Styer was, or how much wood is available to carve into.
On the CPM-1, the back of the grip where the web of the thumb goes has been carved as deep as it can be, and I just barely reach the trigger. I do not know if the later Walthers are also similarly sized. The Germans seem to be much larger than me.
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Dumb question, did you adjust triggers all the way back, as far as they can be, or did you try the way they were?Richard Carter wrote:Hi All
I've tried a number of air pistols over the last few days and my index finger will not let me reach the trigger as it shorter than normal.
So I've started to shoot with my middle finger it's a bit awkward but I'll get use to it.
I have the same problem and owned few air pistols.
Morini 162 EI is the only pistol that has some room to go when adjusted for my finger. Next in line is Walther CMP-1 - all the way back.
Pardini (all), Hammerli 480 K, Steyr lp2 were not perfect, but acceptable.
Steyr lp 10 and all FWB out of my reach. Adjusting trigger shoe at an angle in order to reach the trigger is very bad idea, as you are going to be putting pressure to the side of the trigger.
Last edited by LesJ on Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- John Marchant
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It may be possible to use the trigger shoe arrangement marketed by Mannel Vario Star http://www.maennel.at/shop/index.php?ca ... 2ec39e7cab as this can be offset for shorter trigger fingers. You would need to check that it will fit your pistol.
It may not be the ideal solution but at least the trigger pull would be parallel to the barrel with less chance of creating a vector force on the trigger.
It may not be the ideal solution but at least the trigger pull would be parallel to the barrel with less chance of creating a vector force on the trigger.
Another idea, for the LP10.
Warren Potter and I traded emails about this. To shorten the trigger reach on a LP10, even w the trigger blade in the rearmost position, you could put a LP1 trigger blade on a LP10. This will shorten the trigger reach, but you give up the adjustable LP10 trigger blade. It is the bulk of the adjustable trigger blade that lengthens the trigger reach.
Les
Did you mean CPM-1?
My CPM-1 has the LONGEST trigger reach of the APs that I have tried. I even tried to use it w the trigger shoe removed. That worked OK, but in the cold winters, the metal bar sucked the heat out of my finger, making my finger numb from the cold. So the plastic trigger shoe went back on. But I filed the shoe thinner to shorten the reach by a couple milimeters.
Warren Potter and I traded emails about this. To shorten the trigger reach on a LP10, even w the trigger blade in the rearmost position, you could put a LP1 trigger blade on a LP10. This will shorten the trigger reach, but you give up the adjustable LP10 trigger blade. It is the bulk of the adjustable trigger blade that lengthens the trigger reach.
Les
Did you mean CPM-1?
My CPM-1 has the LONGEST trigger reach of the APs that I have tried. I even tried to use it w the trigger shoe removed. That worked OK, but in the cold winters, the metal bar sucked the heat out of my finger, making my finger numb from the cold. So the plastic trigger shoe went back on. But I filed the shoe thinner to shorten the reach by a couple milimeters.
Yes, my CPM-1(sorry) is the second shortest trigger reach of all I owned.GaryN wrote:Another idea, for the LP10.
Warren Potter and I traded emails about this. To shorten the trigger reach on a LP10, even w the trigger blade in the rearmost position, you could put a LP1 trigger blade on a LP10. This will shorten the trigger reach, but you give up the adjustable LP10 trigger blade. It is the bulk of the adjustable trigger blade that lengthens the trigger reach.
Les
Did you mean CPM-1?
My CPM-1 has the LONGEST trigger reach of the APs that I have tried. I even tried to use it w the trigger shoe removed. That worked OK, but in the cold winters, the metal bar sucked the heat out of my finger, making my finger numb from the cold. So the plastic trigger shoe went back on. But I filed the shoe thinner to shorten the reach by a couple milimeters.
I wonder if the CPM-1 trigger was redesigned, as some other things were.
Richard,
The most common problem for not able to reach the trigger is improper grip structure. The most likely culprit is the back side of the grip. If it is a "U", especially a wide "U", you are wasting a lot of grip finger reach.
Just dremel that U into a V, albeit a comfortable V, that should solve most of your finger reach problem.
I personally like a narrow V. I feel a narrow V gives me most finger reach, at the same time enhance my straight front-back grip firmness.
As for air pistol, any quality air pistol will serve you well.
The most common problem for not able to reach the trigger is improper grip structure. The most likely culprit is the back side of the grip. If it is a "U", especially a wide "U", you are wasting a lot of grip finger reach.
Just dremel that U into a V, albeit a comfortable V, that should solve most of your finger reach problem.
I personally like a narrow V. I feel a narrow V gives me most finger reach, at the same time enhance my straight front-back grip firmness.
As for air pistol, any quality air pistol will serve you well.
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- Posts: 8
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- Location: England