Exceptionally the owner asked me to test it again today. I just got back from the range. The trigger is now totally frozen. We took it apart and a small black resetting spring fell off out of nowhere.
i took also apart the recoiling/damping system. The rod w/the blue O-ring was STUCK. I removed the blue O-ring and it now moves freely. I also put a tad of silicon grease from the white tube.
We now need to find out where the resetting spring goes.
More tomorrow as we will meet again to try fix the frozen trigger and I will bring the camera for some pics as well.
Walther SSP trigger not resetting
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The rod with the o-ring was a source of many of the early problems, it needs to be lubed and clean well and frequently. This info came directly from Walther sports service. It is the reason they removed the print from later models.
Last edited by Richard H on Fri Aug 26, 2011 6:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Not 82 but 77
Just back from the range and realized that the trigger resetting spring was not #82 but #77 -- Zugfeder Part # 2701049 (pictured next to my left thumb)
It connects the sear with the resetting bar (not shown).
I put everything back (with considerable help from another pair of hands), but the trigger is now completely inoperative.
It connects the sear with the resetting bar (not shown).
I put everything back (with considerable help from another pair of hands), but the trigger is now completely inoperative.
I bought a second-hand SSP and the damping rod with the O ring was a bit damaged. I ordered a spare part and I got the new design without the O ring. Both worked well for me and I didn't have problems with the original either but this seems to be really problem-free. I use the smaller orifice as it causes more damping. I suppose that the 1mm orifice should be used only in the case that you have problems with reloading function. Otherwise it will only cause more recoil that probably no one wants. I shoot SK Standard Plus as well as some Eleys and had no problems with any of those. I would avoid HV cartridges as SSP has a very light slide and there is no good reason to shoot that powerful ammo. The gun is completely reliable but it needs maintenance. I clean it every 4-500 rounds. I enjoy taking care of my gun so the cleaning takes me about an hour but it can probably be done much faster. As a Walther representative told me: "GSP is like a Russian tank and the SSP is more like a Ferrari."
The trigger is not as complicated as it seems. It is not true that the settings depend on each other. There are only two of them - first stage travel screw must be moved with that screw in front of the trigger. All the others are independent. Well, if you set the trigger stop in a way that you don't even reach the second stage, than they depend on each other but otherwise not.
Also, if you want your SSP to be reliable, be careful about loading the cartridges into the magazine. This is a double stack magazine which is not usual with .22LR pistols. However, it needs no special way of loading. Just let the cartridges freely fall there, then shake it and release the spring button, they will usually stack-up properly. Just check.
Btw. I must say that the spare parts from Walther are extremely cheap. I wondered what they will cost as it is quite a special thing and could cost a fortune. I needed some screws and springs for the trigger system as well as the recoil-damping rod and each of the pieces cost just several bugs. Along with that, the staff at Walther were very helpful replying to my emails with various questions. They even sent me some documents and leaflets by post.
The trigger is not as complicated as it seems. It is not true that the settings depend on each other. There are only two of them - first stage travel screw must be moved with that screw in front of the trigger. All the others are independent. Well, if you set the trigger stop in a way that you don't even reach the second stage, than they depend on each other but otherwise not.
Also, if you want your SSP to be reliable, be careful about loading the cartridges into the magazine. This is a double stack magazine which is not usual with .22LR pistols. However, it needs no special way of loading. Just let the cartridges freely fall there, then shake it and release the spring button, they will usually stack-up properly. Just check.
Btw. I must say that the spare parts from Walther are extremely cheap. I wondered what they will cost as it is quite a special thing and could cost a fortune. I needed some screws and springs for the trigger system as well as the recoil-damping rod and each of the pieces cost just several bugs. Along with that, the staff at Walther were very helpful replying to my emails with various questions. They even sent me some documents and leaflets by post.
Thank you for your remarks.
On a second attempt I managed to get the trigger to fire by adjusting (read: turning right and left until the trigger got unstuck), the grub/Allen screw found under the SSP in front of the trigger guard.
Still, misfires and FTE's abound.
It is impossible to shoot sixty rounds (a match), without several stoppages -- which disqualify the shooter after the second one.
I tried all possible combinations on the damping rods. With and without the O-ring, but without the SSP jams more often, not less.
Question: is the new damping rod re-designed? Or, the factory uses the same one but w/out the O-ring?
On a second attempt I managed to get the trigger to fire by adjusting (read: turning right and left until the trigger got unstuck), the grub/Allen screw found under the SSP in front of the trigger guard.
Still, misfires and FTE's abound.
It is impossible to shoot sixty rounds (a match), without several stoppages -- which disqualify the shooter after the second one.
I tried all possible combinations on the damping rods. With and without the O-ring, but without the SSP jams more often, not less.
Question: is the new damping rod re-designed? Or, the factory uses the same one but w/out the O-ring?
It is redesigned completely. No groove for the O ring. When I opened the package, I looked at it and wondered what they sent me because it didn't look like any of the two rods in my SSP.
In one of the SSP leaflets, there was a guide how to set the trigger to the original factory setting. I must say that it didn't work for me but try it, you may be luckier. If you take out the trigger, look at it and the pictures and find out how it works and what setting relies on which screw, you should be able to set at to your needs. It's not that difficult. An if it is the dampening rod that causes the problems, try to order the new one. It costs something like 15 dollars, so nothing compared to the price of the gun. I must say that I have no problem with reliability of my SSP so if your gun isn't somehow badly damaged, you should be able to make it work fine as well.
In one of the SSP leaflets, there was a guide how to set the trigger to the original factory setting. I must say that it didn't work for me but try it, you may be luckier. If you take out the trigger, look at it and the pictures and find out how it works and what setting relies on which screw, you should be able to set at to your needs. It's not that difficult. An if it is the dampening rod that causes the problems, try to order the new one. It costs something like 15 dollars, so nothing compared to the price of the gun. I must say that I have no problem with reliability of my SSP so if your gun isn't somehow badly damaged, you should be able to make it work fine as well.
Thank you RichardH.
I have taken the SSP apart so many times by now, that I know it better than the back of my hand.
The rods are straight and not damaged and the ports are clean. The pistol is spic-a-span with a bit of RemOil and a touch of PTFP Teflon. The orifices are clean and the theory behind their use is clear.
I am beginning to think that there is a problem w/the placement of the bbl in this particular batch of 01XXX SSPs. The firing pin with the red dot/indicator seems to slam on the chamber's lower "lip", as if the bbl has been wrongly positioned a millimeter too far at the rear.
I am considering asking Walther's Sports Dept. to explain this possible issue to me, before I start ordering spares. I have even considered removing the bbl and re-positioning it a bit forward. In my view this will allow the firing pit to complete the reloading-firing cycle, which now is short-cycling.
I have taken the SSP apart so many times by now, that I know it better than the back of my hand.
The rods are straight and not damaged and the ports are clean. The pistol is spic-a-span with a bit of RemOil and a touch of PTFP Teflon. The orifices are clean and the theory behind their use is clear.
I am beginning to think that there is a problem w/the placement of the bbl in this particular batch of 01XXX SSPs. The firing pin with the red dot/indicator seems to slam on the chamber's lower "lip", as if the bbl has been wrongly positioned a millimeter too far at the rear.
I am considering asking Walther's Sports Dept. to explain this possible issue to me, before I start ordering spares. I have even considered removing the bbl and re-positioning it a bit forward. In my view this will allow the firing pit to complete the reloading-firing cycle, which now is short-cycling.