IZH 35 trigger creep

Kirby01 · Post by **Kirby01** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:50 pm

Guys I have done all the research and I can't find a screw on this thing that seems to get rid of the creep. I have adjusted the first stage and the sear engagement, but I have a ton of creep. Any thoughts on how to fix? thanks Kirby

Kirby01 · Post by **Kirby01** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:56 pm

It is like regardless of how I adjust the trigger I never get a solid wall from the first stage to the second. Thanks again

j-team · Post by **j-team** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:08 pm

http://www.potfire.com.au/compend/spij35.htm

Too much sear engagement will feel creepy. Too little and it will double.

My experience with IZH35 was you can't get a 'break like a glass rod" type of trigger.

I had mine set up as a roll over and I think I shot better with it because of this.

Kirby01 · Post by **Kirby01** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:35 pm

I did notice that reducing sear engagement help, but it is a far cry from a 41 trigger. I have not test fired it to see if it is too light or not. Will see. Thanks Kirby

dlinden · Post by **dlinden** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:53 pm

This response comes under the "Let's get real" category. When the IZH35 was last imported to U.S. for sale, the pistols sold for $250-300. The cost for a target trigger alone for a match rifle costs that much or more. I don't know what type of wear your pistol has experienced, but mine breaks very pecisely without any creep and maintains adjustment.

Dennis

Kirby01 · Post by **Kirby01** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:57 pm

Well guys thanks for the tips, but I think I have decided to shoot to do some informal bench shooting. I have decided to sell it and it should be in the classifieds once moderator approves. Thanks guys...Kirby

JamesH · Post by **JamesH** » Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:27 am

I may be late, but there are two points to look for with the IJ35.

The sear is adjustable, just look through the left side at the latch sear and adjust the screw which points backwards.
Screw it in until it goes off, unscrew it 1/4 turn or so and thats it.

The trigger bar should have a sharp corner where it engages the sear bar, often they are rounded and serrated, giving the feel of a rough and draggy sear. File the corner sharp you're done.

The sears themselves are usually good, although I know people who have had them apart to convert to a rollover and they do need work done for that.