Question about ejector in Sig Hammerli P 240
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Question about ejector in Sig Hammerli P 240
I recently bought Sig Hammerli P 240, caliber 38 special WC. The gun is in a mint condition and very tight, only ejector moves, when I touch it. And that is my question. Is it supposed to be like that, or is there something lose?
I have Sig P 210 and ejector is different there. Please, if you've got P 240, let me know if my pistol is OK or something is wrong ( so I can sleep at night). Thanks.
I have Sig P 210 and ejector is different there. Please, if you've got P 240, let me know if my pistol is OK or something is wrong ( so I can sleep at night). Thanks.
Hammerli P240
In my 240 the ejector isn't hard fixed either. There is a little 'play' on it.
It never did any harm, so I guess it is intended.
Just a word of caution, if you are new to the P240. When using reloads pay attention to the charge and to the bullet diameter. The P240 got a bad name for breaking, mostly because of too hot loads. Hammerli sent out a warning to use only Norma 38Spec.
Enjoy your gun.
Guy
It never did any harm, so I guess it is intended.
Just a word of caution, if you are new to the P240. When using reloads pay attention to the charge and to the bullet diameter. The P240 got a bad name for breaking, mostly because of too hot loads. Hammerli sent out a warning to use only Norma 38Spec.
Enjoy your gun.
Guy
Sounds strange to me. On my 240, the ejector doesn't move at all by itself, I need to open the slide and push with a hard tool from the inside to see that it works at all. Seems similar in design to my P210, though, so you may have a different version of the 240?
The word herearound is that the barrel problem with the .38 240 were cheap HBWC bullets, and only secondarily hot loads. Hammerli people who were around at the time say that the hollow base would get ripped off the bullet and get stuck in the barrel, causing it to burst when the next bullet arrives there. Of course, hot loads increase the risk of ripping the bullet apart. My one shoots like a dream - if I could handle the grip angle, I'd shoot it all year long :-)
The word herearound is that the barrel problem with the .38 240 were cheap HBWC bullets, and only secondarily hot loads. Hammerli people who were around at the time say that the hollow base would get ripped off the bullet and get stuck in the barrel, causing it to burst when the next bullet arrives there. Of course, hot loads increase the risk of ripping the bullet apart. My one shoots like a dream - if I could handle the grip angle, I'd shoot it all year long :-)
Hammerli P240
Thycho has probably a good point. Guns are tested to withstand occasional hot loads and I guess it is hard to blow up a locked breech barrel.
I’ve swagged my bore and it appears to have a diameter of .354 inch. Compared to other .38 barrels that is rather tight. The best results I had, was with a 2.45 gr. Vectra (fasr burning powder comparable to Bull-Eye) charge behind a cast bullet. It held the inner ten at 25 m from a ransom rest.
I stopped using it because of the burden of casting bullets, better to spend my time training. And the fact that it is a pretty heavy gun. But it sure is fun shooting it!
Guy
I’ve swagged my bore and it appears to have a diameter of .354 inch. Compared to other .38 barrels that is rather tight. The best results I had, was with a 2.45 gr. Vectra (fasr burning powder comparable to Bull-Eye) charge behind a cast bullet. It held the inner ten at 25 m from a ransom rest.
I stopped using it because of the burden of casting bullets, better to spend my time training. And the fact that it is a pretty heavy gun. But it sure is fun shooting it!
Guy
The origional p240 barrel is a 9mm barrel blank not a 38/357 barrel blank.
The bore diameter is .354/.355 (not .357/.358).
If using cast projectiles,size them .355/.356. If using HBWC use thick skirted projectiles and if possible .356 dia.
A couple of people are making after market .38 barrels to fit the P240 in a slightly heavier profile.
The bore diameter is .354/.355 (not .357/.358).
If using cast projectiles,size them .355/.356. If using HBWC use thick skirted projectiles and if possible .356 dia.
A couple of people are making after market .38 barrels to fit the P240 in a slightly heavier profile.
I'm about to order a batch of DEWC for my .38 P240s. What's the best weight - the normal 148 gr ?David M wrote:The origional p240 barrel is a 9mm barrel blank not a 38/357 barrel blank.
The bore diameter is .354/.355 (not .357/.358).
If using cast projectiles,size them .355/.356. If using HBWC use thick skirted projectiles and if possible .356 dia.
A couple of people are making after market .38 barrels to fit the P240 in a slightly heavier profile.
Also, who are making replacement P240 .38 barrels in Australia?
There are some original SIG-Hammerli new ones available in Europe - albeit at eye-watering prices...
I think 148 would be the normal weight, everybody I know uses them. As long as you don't blow up the barrel, you don't need a replacement - it's impossible to wear down a SIG barrel with lead bullets. A P210 even with FMJ will go way beyond 250'000. I seriously doubt that anyone on this planet is making new stuff for the P240. Might be cheaper to buy complete guns, they are not all that expensive around Europe. Perhaps somebody'll pick up that tool kit on egun and start producing new parts, but somehow I don't see that happening...
Tony Listner started making replacement barrels for the P240 some years ago, and they are now made by Ray Pulver (St Ives pistol club).
The profile is slightly thicker and suitable for service unrestricted.
Any wadcutter from 125g to 148g should be OK, if casting, size them .356 for a origional barrel. If you need extra magazines, remember that the S&W model 52 mags will also work in the P240.
The profile is slightly thicker and suitable for service unrestricted.
Any wadcutter from 125g to 148g should be OK, if casting, size them .356 for a origional barrel. If you need extra magazines, remember that the S&W model 52 mags will also work in the P240.
I went to a range today with my new P 240. It's very accurate, but after a few shots the empty shell stayed in the gun. I've pulled back the slide and shell was thrown out. It happend several times.
Before I went to shoot my gun, I've cleaned it and I put a little gun oil in the bore and barrel. Do you think, that could be causing the problem?
Before I went to shoot my gun, I've cleaned it and I put a little gun oil in the bore and barrel. Do you think, that could be causing the problem?