Walther KSP200
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Walther KSP200
Hi all,
I've just bought a used KSP200 and was wondering if anyone has any tips , tricks , ideas etc on the best way to dis-assemble & re-assemble the pistol as the instruction book is sketchy at best.
Thanks in advance,
Dino
I've just bought a used KSP200 and was wondering if anyone has any tips , tricks , ideas etc on the best way to dis-assemble & re-assemble the pistol as the instruction book is sketchy at best.
Thanks in advance,
Dino
I can help with the pics of the grips/frame. I can send a DXF, Parasolid etc if required.
My photobucket acct seems to have died, I'll have to make another to post some pics.
Dismantling.
Press the button on the underside of the barrel at the front and slide the lower frame shroud forwards off the gun.
Pull the slide to the rear and hold it there.
At the same time pull the upper shroud rearwards slightly, disengage the front (by the foresight) and lift the front up then the whole thing up and forwards - there is a knack to this.
Hold the spring compressed under the slide with thumb and forefinger, let the slide go forward a bit - as it does so the front should drop down below the barrel and the back lift up over the breach area - the spring can very easily fly off doing this.
The slide can then be slid off over the front sight block.
Release the spring and the guide tube and you're done - assuming its not already embedden in your eye.
Reassembly is the reverse, be careful refitting the lower shroud - miss the slot and it will jam solid, also the recoil spring can launch itself into orbit.
Its worth trialling the process without the spring first.
Maybe I'll do a youtube vid.....
In the meantime attached is a drawing I did for Marshal grips.
My photobucket acct seems to have died, I'll have to make another to post some pics.
Dismantling.
Press the button on the underside of the barrel at the front and slide the lower frame shroud forwards off the gun.
Pull the slide to the rear and hold it there.
At the same time pull the upper shroud rearwards slightly, disengage the front (by the foresight) and lift the front up then the whole thing up and forwards - there is a knack to this.
Hold the spring compressed under the slide with thumb and forefinger, let the slide go forward a bit - as it does so the front should drop down below the barrel and the back lift up over the breach area - the spring can very easily fly off doing this.
The slide can then be slid off over the front sight block.
Release the spring and the guide tube and you're done - assuming its not already embedden in your eye.
Reassembly is the reverse, be careful refitting the lower shroud - miss the slot and it will jam solid, also the recoil spring can launch itself into orbit.
Its worth trialling the process without the spring first.
Maybe I'll do a youtube vid.....
In the meantime attached is a drawing I did for Marshal grips.
- Attachments
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- IZH 35-2.pdf
- Izh35 Frame and Grips
- (17.82 KiB) Downloaded 300 times
Last edited by JamesH on Mon May 17, 2010 9:23 am, edited 2 times in total.
Probably the old EAA manual explains it best.
I have the whole manual but its 3MB so just attached the relevant page.
I have the whole manual but its 3MB so just attached the relevant page.
- Attachments
-
- eaa_izh35m p10.pdf
- (261.72 KiB) Downloaded 209 times
Walther KSP200
Thanks JamesH - all that should be in the Walther instruction manual - it has answered the riddle of the top shroud.
regards
Dino
p.s. great pics too - I was going to get the camera out but you beat me to it.
regards
Dino
p.s. great pics too - I was going to get the camera out but you beat me to it.
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- Posts: 321
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 3:33 am
- Location: New Zealand
Walther KSP200
" Yeah , I know that ! " in the voice of Andy from Little Britain.
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- Posts: 321
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 3:33 am
- Location: New Zealand
Walther added a nice laminated grip, a slide hold-open button to the right side of the slide and improved the finish generally.
I've seen one with an enormous 'bump' added to the trigger bar / disconnector, so it was displaced massively downwards when the slide was out of battery. It looked like a factory mod, but may not have been. My IZH doesn't have this 'feature', but functions perfectly, nevertheless.
I've seen one with an enormous 'bump' added to the trigger bar / disconnector, so it was displaced massively downwards when the slide was out of battery. It looked like a factory mod, but may not have been. My IZH doesn't have this 'feature', but functions perfectly, nevertheless.
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- Posts: 321
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 3:33 am
- Location: New Zealand
Gidday cobber!
Perhaps you might experiment with the amount of sear engagement. I really can't fault my un-tarted Russian trigger, once the sear engagement was reduced to a reliable minimum (screw pointing up and back, on left of frame). Also, the grip safety bits were removed (from memory, already done by Walther).
Perhaps you might experiment with the amount of sear engagement. I really can't fault my un-tarted Russian trigger, once the sear engagement was reduced to a reliable minimum (screw pointing up and back, on left of frame). Also, the grip safety bits were removed (from memory, already done by Walther).