fwb 65 help/suggestions--binding recoil rods/sled

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melchloboo
Posts: 209
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:24 pm

fwb 65 help/suggestions--binding recoil rods/sled

Post by melchloboo »

I'm having a problem with a 65 of unknown history. Basically, I shot a few times and did not think that it was recoiling completely.

I have the upper off and examined the sled that is on the underside of the pistol, up front near the loading port. I mean the part that rides along the two silver rods.

Basically, the sled/rods are binding under weight. When I hold the assembly upside down, the sled slides smoothly. But right side up, with the weight of the pistol on the sled, the sled binds halfway along the rods. I think this is happening while shooting.

The slide is supposed to advance all the way forward along the rods...right?

I took the rods and sled out and examined them. They seem fine, but interestingly one of the rods won't fit in one of the holes in the sled...like each rod was custom fit...very tight. I think that is the rod that is binding in its hole in the sled.

I tried different lubes, but I don't think that's the problem.

I am thinking to use some lapping compound on these rods and the sled to get them running smoothly...does this make sense?
RB6
Posts: 83
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 4:12 pm

Post by RB6 »

Immediatlely after the shot is fired the sledge will recoil/move fully to the rear ,then if you tilt the pistol toward the ground the sledge will slide forward fully and lock. At that point the sledge will not move forward or backward, the sledge is locked. When you fire again, the trigger trips the pawl to allow the sledge to unlock and slide back again. Then when the pistol tilts forward the sledge slides forward and the recoil pawl is in the locked position again

That's how the recoil sledge works , you might re-examine the faults of what you think is happening in the cycle. You mention that the forward recoil guide doesn't move the full range of motion, then you mention that one of the rods won't fit in the guide hole. I don't know what you mean.
The front and rear recoil guides and rods are hardened steel with a precision fit. I would not do any lapping at all, you will be increasing the tolerance to a level that will simply make for a loose gun

Try to study the operation of the firing and the function of the recoil sledge . Perhaps someone has lost some parts. The rear recoil guide with the single rod is fitted with small thin shims in the front and rear of the rear guide to properly position the guide to the recoil pawl for locking and unlocking of the sledge. If the rear guide is incorrectly positioned/adjusted the sledge will not lock and unlock for proper fuction

A thorough understanding of the recoil sledge operation is necessary in order to function any adjusments or repairs . Lapping of parts will likely compromise the critical overall operation of the pistol
Last edited by RB6 on Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
melchloboo
Posts: 209
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:24 pm

Post by melchloboo »

I understand, the sledge as you call it rides on 3 silver rails--two in front and one in back.

With the lower removed, I am just talking about the upside-down T that rides along the two front rails. That upside-down T is binding sometimes instead of riding smoothly along those rails.

I took off the c-clips that hold the rails in, then drifted the rails out to examine/clean them. So then I tried the upside-down T on the rails, outside of the pistol. And first I found that the holes for the rails are not the same. One of the holes in the upside-down T is tighter, and although the rails look the same, only one of the rails actually fits. So not only is the hole tighter, but the rail is a little thinner.

I think it is actually that side that is binding a little... When I have the rails outside of the gun and just play with the upside-down T, it is the side with the tighter hole that is not sliding smoothly under a little weight.

I guess the question is how smoothly it should be, I would think like glass, or maybe some friction, but not so much that it sometimes binds.


I would also add that the gun did not appear to be shot much. Could it just be that it needs to be "broken in" with a few thousand shots?
melchloboo
Posts: 209
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:24 pm

Post by melchloboo »

When I put in new spring, seals and chamber bumper, everything is fine, recoil mechanism is now glass smooth.

I think the problem may have been just that the rods needed a drop of CLP, or that the missing chamber bumper was an issue. Could also have been the screws that hold upper to lower, maybe they weren't in proper alignment.

I love the gun again!
GaryN
Posts: 637
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 4:57 pm
Location: California

Post by GaryN »

More likely the lube on the rails were dry and possibly dirty. The new lube softened the hardened lubed/dust to allow the sledge to slide. You might want to use a Q-tip and clean the inside of the holes in the sledge, then reclean and lube the rails. This is to remove any old lube/dust that had be loosened.
melchloboo
Posts: 209
Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:24 pm

Post by melchloboo »

Yes, I did that too. There was a little bit of dried lube in there too.
GaryN
Posts: 637
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 4:57 pm
Location: California

Post by GaryN »

Similar thing happened to my FWB-300...except worse. The sledge did not move, so the rifle recoiled. Cleaned and relubed the rails and it is recoilless again.
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