I am having problem adjusting my LP10 first stage trigger. The highest I can adjusted first stage is up to 325gm, I can not get it any higher. The cocking lever/ trigger locks above that weight. The first stage screw is completely sunk in above that weight.
I can adjust second stage to 250gm, to make first stage and second stage total of 525gm.
I want to adjust my first stage up to 450gm, how do I do that without locking up the trigger?
My LP10 first stage weight stuck at 325gm
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Tallahassee
Re: My LP10 first stage weight stuck at 325gm
I don't know what the max is but I don't quite see why you want it set so high. Typical ranges for 1st stage are between about 250 - 350g, anything more and it starts getting harder to tell where the 1st stage stop is. And in which case you might as well have a 1 stage trigger.Tallahassee wrote:I am having problem adjusting my LP10 first stage trigger. The highest I can adjusted first stage is up to 325gm, I can not get it any higher. The cocking lever/ trigger locks above that weight. The first stage screw is completely sunk in above that weight.
I can adjust second stage to 250gm, to make first stage and second stage total of 525gm.
I want to adjust my first stage up to 450gm, how do I do that without locking up the trigger?
Rob.
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Guest
Re: My LP10 first stage weight stuck at 325gm
This is a classic beginner mistake and leads to Chicken FingerT wrote:
I want to adjust my first stage up to 450gm, how do I do that without locking up the trigger?
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Tallahassee
I don't understand why a light second stage weight would cause chicken-finger?
If I apply continuous pressure from first stage through second stage, don't park there and snatch, why would a light second stage be a culprit for chicken-finger? There would also be a less kick from lower second stage weight.
Why would this be a beginner's mistake?
If I apply continuous pressure from first stage through second stage, don't park there and snatch, why would a light second stage be a culprit for chicken-finger? There would also be a less kick from lower second stage weight.
Why would this be a beginner's mistake?
Because the above mentionned reasoning is wrong: ligther second stage doesn't reduce the kick.Tallahassee wrote:I don't understand why a light second stage weight would cause chicken-finger?
If I apply continuous pressure from first stage through second stage, don't park there and snatch, why would a light second stage be a culprit for chicken-finger? There would also be a less kick from lower second stage weight.
Why would this be a beginner's mistake?
Same for free pistol, ultra low trigger weigth doesn't reduce the risk of kick.
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Tallahassee
Just got reply from Steyr.
There is a catch of 60 gm difference between 1st stage and 2nd stage pull for LP10. This is co-linked difference that would not go any lower. So if you set 500 total, that would be 440/60. If you set it at 530, that would be 470/60.
This 60 difference does not apply for the new LP10E, the difference could be much lower.
Steyr, however, recommend the difference to be set at a minimum of 80. Anything less would not be beneficial AT ALL according to Steyr.
There is a catch of 60 gm difference between 1st stage and 2nd stage pull for LP10. This is co-linked difference that would not go any lower. So if you set 500 total, that would be 440/60. If you set it at 530, that would be 470/60.
This 60 difference does not apply for the new LP10E, the difference could be much lower.
Steyr, however, recommend the difference to be set at a minimum of 80. Anything less would not be beneficial AT ALL according to Steyr.
That 60gm difference between the first and second stage explains why I haven't successfully been able to get rid of the second stage.
I tried to remove the second stage from my LP10 as a training aid for my Rapidfire shooting where I have set up my Pardini SP with a rolling trigger. Which is great for Rapidfire and Centrefire Rapidfire but can be a real mission when it comes to precision shooting.
The theory was to set up the LP10 with a rolling trigger, which it felt like for the first couple of months but then I started noticing the second stage again and haven't been able to get rid of it.
Having this virtual rolling trigger on the LP10 has been interesting and hasn't affected my air pistol shooting too much, it definitely makes you commit to the sight picture and continuous movement of the trigger and to trust your hold.
I tried to remove the second stage from my LP10 as a training aid for my Rapidfire shooting where I have set up my Pardini SP with a rolling trigger. Which is great for Rapidfire and Centrefire Rapidfire but can be a real mission when it comes to precision shooting.
The theory was to set up the LP10 with a rolling trigger, which it felt like for the first couple of months but then I started noticing the second stage again and haven't been able to get rid of it.
Having this virtual rolling trigger on the LP10 has been interesting and hasn't affected my air pistol shooting too much, it definitely makes you commit to the sight picture and continuous movement of the trigger and to trust your hold.