Revolver trigger job
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- Posts: 170
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Revolver trigger job
Has anyone out here done any work toward taking down a Smith & Wesson Model 14 trigger to 1000 grams and still keeping reliable primer strikes?
Just wound down the main spring set screw a tad on a practically unused 14-3 and best I could get was about 1350 with an occasional light hit ( could have been a case of hard primers).
Thanks!
Just wound down the main spring set screw a tad on a practically unused 14-3 and best I could get was about 1350 with an occasional light hit ( could have been a case of hard primers).
Thanks!
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- Posts: 209
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Most of us here in the U.S. use Federal brand primers on our tuned revolvers. Winchesters and Remington are sometimes OK. CCI are the hardest.
Also make sure your primers are seated correctly, nice and deep so that you don't loose energy by the pin pushing the primer deeper into the pocket.
Also, some say it is not a good idea to wind down the tension screw, rather, swap out the spring for a lighter one. Wolff sells several mainsprings that will work.
Also make sure your primers are seated correctly, nice and deep so that you don't loose energy by the pin pushing the primer deeper into the pocket.
Also, some say it is not a good idea to wind down the tension screw, rather, swap out the spring for a lighter one. Wolff sells several mainsprings that will work.
My brother, a former NY Police Academy armorer, responded to my question by saying "cut a few coils off the rebound spring":
"The rebound spring is easy to install as long as you have #1 a small screwdriver with the center of the blade ground down(so the spring doesn't slip off the blade) OR #2 sometimes I used a small Phillips(inserted INSIDE the spring opening). You have to compress the spring then passed the stud then press down the rebound slide.
The rebound spring has 17 coils---snip off 2 and see what happens. If you cut off too much the trigger is very slow to return to the forward position. My spring on my Combat Masterpiece was cut to 13 coils and worked fine but was a little scary for other shooters (TOO LIGHT).
You can also stone the rebound slide with a fine stone (I would have to look up how many strokes are suggested)."
Have fun!
"The rebound spring is easy to install as long as you have #1 a small screwdriver with the center of the blade ground down(so the spring doesn't slip off the blade) OR #2 sometimes I used a small Phillips(inserted INSIDE the spring opening). You have to compress the spring then passed the stud then press down the rebound slide.
The rebound spring has 17 coils---snip off 2 and see what happens. If you cut off too much the trigger is very slow to return to the forward position. My spring on my Combat Masterpiece was cut to 13 coils and worked fine but was a little scary for other shooters (TOO LIGHT).
You can also stone the rebound slide with a fine stone (I would have to look up how many strokes are suggested)."
Have fun!
Thats what I did to my model 31 to reduce from 1360 to 1000grams.Rover wrote:My brother, a former NY Police Academy armorer, responded to my question by saying "cut a few coils off the rebound spring"
If you are worried, do like I did and just clip one coil at a time off and test it as you go. The good thing is if you take too much off, they are cheap and easy to replace!
- Fred Mannis
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Revolver Tuning
When you tune a revolver action by reducing the strength of the hammer and rebound springs, you need to make sure that neither hammer nor trigger are rubbing against the frame. Brownells sells thin shim washers to help center the hammer/trigger.