I finally got to disassemble my recently bought Toz35M. It was in extremely greasy and dirty state, unbeleivable that someone would let the dirt build up that long...
I completely took it apart and suceeded in reassembling it, but of course there are a few minor problems:
1. when I release the trigger (dry or live) the trigger cocking lever jumps up and bounces a bit (don't know how to describe it else). Might this be due to a bad positioning of the cocking lever spring?
2. when the bolt is armed I have to arm the trigger and release it twice. Only the second time the bolt will fire. (tried this 10 times, always released on the second 'shot')
3. when assembling the trigger mechanism and trying to cock the trigger I had a problem with the sear engagement, it would engage from time to time. I noticed that I can move the big lever (big part that comes from fore-end al the way over trigger) a little bit sideways and that engagement works fine when the big lever is more to the left side.
Thanks for your help,
Ken
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Shooting Kiwi
- Posts: 321
- Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2007 3:33 am
- Location: New Zealand
TOZ 35
Hi Ken,
EDIT: have just remembered that our host has instructions and diagrams: www.pilkguns.com/tenp/sptoz35.htm so terminology tidied up (Russian terms and reference numbers in brackets).
1. Yes. Legs of spring point backwards. The inner, cranked leg bears against the underside of trigger-assembly frame (accelerator housing: 33), just where there is an acute corner with a downwards and backwards sloping face, just outboard of the base of the bent blade (limiter: 13) that restricts rearwards movement of the sear (middle lever: 23) which engages the long lever (big lever: 11) which the trigger lifts. The outboard end of the spring bears on the upper rear edge of the strap connecting the two sides of the cocking lever( 45 ). The lever should return to full-up when released.
...This is going to get horribly wordy and terminology is difficult - pix would be better, but I don't know how to do that!...
2. Not sure, from your description. With the trigger group assembled, and hanging free from the rest of the gun, does the trigger group function correctly (after you have attended to 1. above, and 3. below)? Correct means that the large, thick lever, at the back of the assembly, (accelerator firing pin: 43), kicks back on trigger release? Its upper end flies back to release the silver-coloured sear lever ( 76 ), hanging from the midline of the bolt/breech assembly.
3. Sounds like insufficient sear engagement or deformation of the area of the 'big lever' on which the sear engages. Increase sear engagement by winding screw ( 37 ), to the left of the midline, behind trigger blade, outwards.
Also ensure that the front of the 'big lever' is correctly located in its groove at the front of the trigger group frame and start with a high trigger weight (clockwise on the screw in front of the trigger guard). The fit of the trigger blade assembly into the trigger group frame can be poor. You might need to relieve the outline of the circular trigger blade assembly holder (sleeve: 20), so that it can be easily slid along its adjustment groove. It should also be free to rotate a full circle.
When releasing the firing pin, open the breech a little, to avoid the pin hitting the face of the breech. Only dry fire by setting the trigger: don't cock the firing mechanism.
Well, hope you followed that, and that the thing now works! Apologies if much of this was known to you already - I thought it better to assume as little as possible.
EDIT: have just remembered that our host has instructions and diagrams: www.pilkguns.com/tenp/sptoz35.htm so terminology tidied up (Russian terms and reference numbers in brackets).
1. Yes. Legs of spring point backwards. The inner, cranked leg bears against the underside of trigger-assembly frame (accelerator housing: 33), just where there is an acute corner with a downwards and backwards sloping face, just outboard of the base of the bent blade (limiter: 13) that restricts rearwards movement of the sear (middle lever: 23) which engages the long lever (big lever: 11) which the trigger lifts. The outboard end of the spring bears on the upper rear edge of the strap connecting the two sides of the cocking lever( 45 ). The lever should return to full-up when released.
...This is going to get horribly wordy and terminology is difficult - pix would be better, but I don't know how to do that!...
2. Not sure, from your description. With the trigger group assembled, and hanging free from the rest of the gun, does the trigger group function correctly (after you have attended to 1. above, and 3. below)? Correct means that the large, thick lever, at the back of the assembly, (accelerator firing pin: 43), kicks back on trigger release? Its upper end flies back to release the silver-coloured sear lever ( 76 ), hanging from the midline of the bolt/breech assembly.
3. Sounds like insufficient sear engagement or deformation of the area of the 'big lever' on which the sear engages. Increase sear engagement by winding screw ( 37 ), to the left of the midline, behind trigger blade, outwards.
Also ensure that the front of the 'big lever' is correctly located in its groove at the front of the trigger group frame and start with a high trigger weight (clockwise on the screw in front of the trigger guard). The fit of the trigger blade assembly into the trigger group frame can be poor. You might need to relieve the outline of the circular trigger blade assembly holder (sleeve: 20), so that it can be easily slid along its adjustment groove. It should also be free to rotate a full circle.
When releasing the firing pin, open the breech a little, to avoid the pin hitting the face of the breech. Only dry fire by setting the trigger: don't cock the firing mechanism.
Well, hope you followed that, and that the thing now works! Apologies if much of this was known to you already - I thought it better to assume as little as possible.