IZH 35 extractor photo/measurments

Brian James · Post by **Brian James** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 11:56 am

A friend of mine has lost his extractor, and is hoping to make one using a milling machine. Can anyone provide me with a photo and/or measurements of the extractor?

Thanks

Brian

diopter · Post by **diopter** » Wed Jul 08, 2009 7:04 am

How about a spare one for him to copy.

Shooting Kiwi · Post by **Shooting Kiwi** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 4:07 pm

Brian,

If help is still needed, pm me with an email address and I'll do what I can.

Brian James · Post by **Brian James** » Fri Jul 10, 2009 7:50 am

Thank you to everyone for their help!! It appears as if I should be ok now as another forum member is mailing me an extractor.

You have to love the support we provide each other!

Brian

paulo · Post by **paulo** » Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:27 pm

Looking for an extractor as well, mine broke last week, and EAA no longer has them.
Emailed Walther but I am guessing the answer will be the same.
If somebody could post the measurements for the extractor of the IZH 35M I would be much obliged.
If someone has one available as a sample in the area of Philadelphia I would be willing to drive to your location to get measurements from it.
If someone has one for sale I will buy it as well!
This is of great help http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/0703/ ... 0089-1.jpg thanks.

JamesHx · Post by **JamesHx** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:12 am

Will try to do an engineering drawing and some detailed pics shortly - next 4 or 5 hours.
I have the parts and calipers, just need a free hour or two.

JamesH · Post by **JamesH** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:06 am

Pics for now

Thickness is ~2.75mm

Edit Added:

Due to the way the extractor sits in the slide one of the angled faces picks up the rim, so the angle is important.

JamesH · Post by **JamesH** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:13 am

Drawing.

Measurements could be a bit rough, if anyone has better metrology it can be updated.

If DXFs or parasolids are needed let me know.

See later in the thread for latest drawing.

paulo · Post by **paulo** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:25 am

I have no words to express my gratitude for all the help.

Lets hope this one http://www.demyan.info/eng/sp-08.html gets here timely and priced right, shooting straight, and if it is not asking much with better metallurgy.

Which metal should be used to build an extractor?
I will be approaching a few manufacturers and see if I could have a bunch made, I will let you all interested know of the results here.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:05 am

How do you put the exrtactor-plunger-spring back in?

(Also, how to you take it out?)

paulo · Post by **paulo** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:24 am

My guess is to use the extractor to recede the spring and plunger.
From this image, just picture pushing the extractor back against the plunger and spring, until the base of the extractor locks on the slider slot.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/0703/ ... 0089-1.jpg
Since the spring is not a recoil type, and it works more as a lock for the punger, I didn't feel like it will go flying away if you are careful. As suggested I used a jewelers screw driver and it worked well for the removal of the broken extractor.
The PDF drawings are with a machinist, and he his getting back at me with a price, I hope by this week.

JamesH · Post by **JamesH** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:15 pm

OK, just bear in mind the drawings are the best I could do, they may not be 100% precise - and I've not given any thought to the tolerances needed.

I'll double check the radii with a gauge - once I can find it.

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:53 pm

paulo wrote:Which metal should be used to build an extractor?

I would think a mild steel would be OK. I can't imagine they used anything too exotic. If they can be case hardened a little, they would wear well without being brittle.

For best life, make sure there is at least a small smooth radius on the inside corners, or you will form stress concentrators that will cause premature failures. The photos show a nice radius in the front, the one in the back would be the likely trouble spot. If you've got a busted one, check where it let go & try to radius the appropriate corner.

The design looks vaguely like what is used on High Standards. The plunger applies pressure to move the extractor, and the two interlock to stay in place. If you depress the plunger with a small tool, the extractor should slide out. The trick is then slowly releasing pressure on the plunger so it & the spring don't head for a dark dusty corner of your shop. Working inside a large clear plastic bag isn't a bad idea. If you do lose it, I find that sweeping the floor around the estimated landing zone with a large magnet to be very helpful.

JamesH · Post by **JamesH** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 11:22 pm

Its also pretty easy to break the plunger during assembly or dismantling.

paulo · Post by **paulo** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:00 pm

I hope I don't brake the plunger puting it back together.
After enough wait from two machinists, I got going with building one myself, I will post some images for the ones confortable with a Dremel.
I crazy glued the broken extractor, traced it on a flat 3/4" flat stainless steel washer, and I will be roughing it tomorrow. Just tested the heavy duty cutter discs from Dremel and they work fine so it should be an easy job to do.
I talked with a person I consider very much, and he asked me if the gun needs an extractor at all, that the old guns didn't even use one, and for me to try to shoot it without the extractor, has anyone tried this, please let me know, it will save me the trip to the range.
Thanks.

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 1:13 am

paulo wrote:I talked with a person I consider very much, and he asked me if the gun needs an extractor at all, that the old guns didn't even use one, and for me to try to shoot it without the extractor

On most semi-automatic .22s the only thing that the extractor does is to act as a pivot, spinning the empty case clear of the gun when it hits the ejector.

It certainly does not pull the empty case from the chamber during normal firing.

The extractor moves backwards with the bolt/slide, but that only moves backwards when it is pushed by the fired case.

It is obviously different in single shot pistols or when manually extracting an unfired cartridge. There you actually need to pull the case backwards.

paulo · Post by **paulo** » Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:13 pm

Tried to shoot without the extractor, and it didn't work reliably.
The good news is, I found a machinist to do it, and it looks like he can do about anything, he was testing hardness today, and said he would do a bar to spec asap, so he can then make more if needed.
He is building them based on the blue prints above, I should be getting one in a week or two.
I am not looking for 100% replica as long as it works.
If anybody needs an extractor for the IZH35M just PM me, and I will put you in contact with the person making them, but first I want to make sure it works, so sorry for the wait in case you are interested in getting one as well.
Thanks to all for the contributions.

julioalperi · Post by **julioalperi** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:11 am

I have a standard pistol that has no extractor at all. It is a Olimpic ST2 designed and made in Spain in 1990 (mine). It hasn´t got an ejector neither in the frame nor in the left lip of the magazine. This pistol is tremendously reliable.
Julio Alperi

JamesH · Post by **JamesH** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:23 pm

Rev 2 - Angle of one of the faces corrected to 45 degrees - thats the additional view.
Some critical dims added, not too sure if they are exact or the tolerances needed.

paulo · Post by **paulo** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 9:10 am

Thank you very much, for the new blue prints.

TargetTalk

IZH 35 extractor photo/measurments

IZH 35 extractor photo/measurments

No extractor

Updated drawing