Pellet shelf life question.
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Pellet shelf life question.
Hi ~ Perhaps a dumb question, but is there a shelf life to pellets, specifically R10's and Finale Match?
And this would tie into my next part of the question, should they be stored in room temperature or does it matter if they are cold or what.
Reason for that part is, my range is in my garage, which is heated, but I normally keep it turned down to about 35/40 degrees until I go out to shoot, and then I turn it up to room temp while I'm out there shooting.
I've been leaving my pellets out there but am wondering if I should bring them back in with me after shooting or if it makes a difference at all.
Just curious.....
Thanks guys.
Joe
Oh, and if it matters or not, I shoot a FWB 103 with usually Finale Match, sometimes the R10's.
And this would tie into my next part of the question, should they be stored in room temperature or does it matter if they are cold or what.
Reason for that part is, my range is in my garage, which is heated, but I normally keep it turned down to about 35/40 degrees until I go out to shoot, and then I turn it up to room temp while I'm out there shooting.
I've been leaving my pellets out there but am wondering if I should bring them back in with me after shooting or if it makes a difference at all.
Just curious.....
Thanks guys.
Joe
Oh, and if it matters or not, I shoot a FWB 103 with usually Finale Match, sometimes the R10's.
Hello Oz ~ Yes, the oxidation issue is a problem from what I had gathered as well from reading previous posts, but was curious as to the time frame we are talking about on unopened tins. Months, years?
And does storage conditions hasten or retard oxidation. Would storing them in an empty ammo can be a good idea?
And how does one recognize an oxidation issue. Is there some sort of discoloration or what?
I realize that if I were to be storing them in a swamp or something, I'm sure that would have a negative result, but is it wise to be buying say 10,000 at a time, or buy them in smaller quantities as I shoot them up.
But then again, how long are they sitting on a dealers shelf? I am sure they are buying them at quite large bulk quantities, and I'm guessing that not too many dealers have climate controlled storerooms/warehouses other than just at room temp. ;)
Just being curious here and trying to learn. Still relatively new at this 10 meter stuff. Sure like it though. :)
Thanks! Joe
And does storage conditions hasten or retard oxidation. Would storing them in an empty ammo can be a good idea?
And how does one recognize an oxidation issue. Is there some sort of discoloration or what?
I realize that if I were to be storing them in a swamp or something, I'm sure that would have a negative result, but is it wise to be buying say 10,000 at a time, or buy them in smaller quantities as I shoot them up.
But then again, how long are they sitting on a dealers shelf? I am sure they are buying them at quite large bulk quantities, and I'm guessing that not too many dealers have climate controlled storerooms/warehouses other than just at room temp. ;)
Just being curious here and trying to learn. Still relatively new at this 10 meter stuff. Sure like it though. :)
Thanks! Joe
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Joe,
I had some Crosman pellets for the 4H program, and those oxidized rather quickly. I have also used RWS R10 for many years and some may have been factory sealed up to 5 years old, and they looked like new. I think there is an antioxidant coating on some brands including R10, but I could be mistaken. I have read that some guys vacuum seal pellets in food storage bags for the long term. They say it works, but I can't confirm it. I was going to try it, because I have a bunch of heavy round nose pellets that came in a unsealed cardboard box. Those pellets are for outdoor silhouette.
I found this description, and it states they have an antioxidant.
http://www.airgunsbbguns.com/RWS_R_10_L ... 315018.htm
Features
* Absolute Consistency in size
* Exceptional material quality
* Optoelectronic inspected
* Spotless surface finish
* Protection from oxidation for long term storage.
* World Championship Barcelona
* R-10 = 14 Gold, 8 Silver, 7 Bronze
I had some Crosman pellets for the 4H program, and those oxidized rather quickly. I have also used RWS R10 for many years and some may have been factory sealed up to 5 years old, and they looked like new. I think there is an antioxidant coating on some brands including R10, but I could be mistaken. I have read that some guys vacuum seal pellets in food storage bags for the long term. They say it works, but I can't confirm it. I was going to try it, because I have a bunch of heavy round nose pellets that came in a unsealed cardboard box. Those pellets are for outdoor silhouette.
I found this description, and it states they have an antioxidant.
http://www.airgunsbbguns.com/RWS_R_10_L ... 315018.htm
Features
* Absolute Consistency in size
* Exceptional material quality
* Optoelectronic inspected
* Spotless surface finish
* Protection from oxidation for long term storage.
* World Championship Barcelona
* R-10 = 14 Gold, 8 Silver, 7 Bronze
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- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2009 7:12 am
- Location: Easton, ma
IMO I would not keep the pellets in the cold.
My reasoning is this: when you heat the range to a normal temp the heavy lead will still be cold and condense moisture that may end up in your gun. Air guns do not have lube on the pellets that coat the barrel like a .22 RF.
I would keep the pellets with the gun in a more regulated temp.
My reasoning is this: when you heat the range to a normal temp the heavy lead will still be cold and condense moisture that may end up in your gun. Air guns do not have lube on the pellets that coat the barrel like a .22 RF.
I would keep the pellets with the gun in a more regulated temp.
Lead will start to oxidize when exposed to air. Its a slow but never ending process. The first signs of oxidisation on unprotected lead is it starts to darken in colour. It also starts to harden and become less soft.
In extreme cases over long periods the lead can exhibit a white chalky coating.
I'm not sure what protective coating RWS R-10 pellets use but its some sort of coating to protect the lead from the air. There may also be a ballistic performance reason as well.
I have noticed that over long periods of use with these very shiny pellets, they shed tine specks of this shiny substance all around the breech area of my rifle and its a sod to wipe off.
H+N have also got a superb track record with just as many medals if not more to their credit and they don't think it necessary to coat their pellets.
It would be a good idea to ask RWS what kind of shelf life they recommend. I doubt very much if they will tell you the construction/ingredient formula though.
Peeps
In extreme cases over long periods the lead can exhibit a white chalky coating.
I'm not sure what protective coating RWS R-10 pellets use but its some sort of coating to protect the lead from the air. There may also be a ballistic performance reason as well.
I have noticed that over long periods of use with these very shiny pellets, they shed tine specks of this shiny substance all around the breech area of my rifle and its a sod to wipe off.
H+N have also got a superb track record with just as many medals if not more to their credit and they don't think it necessary to coat their pellets.
It would be a good idea to ask RWS what kind of shelf life they recommend. I doubt very much if they will tell you the construction/ingredient formula though.
Peeps
I shot air rifle through my college years and had to lay it aside to deal with real life. I had about half a sleeve of RWS Meisterkugeln pellets (stored at indoor room temperature) that sat unused for more than a decade. After I had the rifle tuned up and started shooting again, the pellets all went through one hole off the bench. An unfired pellet would not hang in the hole, but a 10-shot group would easily fit inside the 8-ring of the target, which I assume means that they would all score as 10s. If only I could do that standing, instead of from a rest . . .
So, I say go ahead test the pellets. If they shoot well, use 'em. Shoot them for practice and buy new ones for competition if that puts your mind at ease. I don't see how you can damage your rifle, assuming the pellets are not wet with condensation.
So, I say go ahead test the pellets. If they shoot well, use 'em. Shoot them for practice and buy new ones for competition if that puts your mind at ease. I don't see how you can damage your rifle, assuming the pellets are not wet with condensation.
New pellets due to the washing agents which include anti-oxidizers don't oxidize anywheres, near as quickly as the old pellets. Many years ago pellets would have white powder on them only after a couple or three years. With quality pellets this really isn't much of a problem now as long as they are stored in reasonable conditions (those in which you'd be comfortable in).
Pellet storage long term
I bought several 5000 packs of R10 in tins in the early 90s and a couple of them have been in storage since. I just started using them again this year (so they're atleast 15years old) and they perform and appear as I remember from my college days. Even some that were partially used (open to air) only darkened/oxidized visually a small amount relative to some purchased this year. So, bottom line, I believe based on my experience that high-end pellets have a very long shelf life if stored at typical indoor room conditions.
I suspect that the only possible bad part of storing pellets at cold temperatures is the possibility of condensation as posted earlier.
I suspect that the only possible bad part of storing pellets at cold temperatures is the possibility of condensation as posted earlier.
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pellet lubricant.
It's my understanding that the most commonly used lubricant used for pellets is graphite. Same stuff used on Pinewood Derby racers and to lubricate between the nut and the strings on steel-stringed guitars. Graphite feels oily but it's a quasi-crystalline solid. It's also the main ingredient in pencil "leads". To my knowledge graphite alone offers no protection from oxidation, though.
Dear members,
While this is not the specific answer to the original question, I will like to share my 1 cent advice...
Vacuum seal (food vacuum sealer) the tin cans that you will not be using for a while and use a reusable vacuum container (plastic) for the pellets that you will be using…Re-seal (vacuum) this container after your shooting session is over.
I have done this for the last 20 years very successfully...I used to have many tins of “WHITE” pellets before I started doing this.
Regards,
AZUARO
While this is not the specific answer to the original question, I will like to share my 1 cent advice...
Vacuum seal (food vacuum sealer) the tin cans that you will not be using for a while and use a reusable vacuum container (plastic) for the pellets that you will be using…Re-seal (vacuum) this container after your shooting session is over.
I have done this for the last 20 years very successfully...I used to have many tins of “WHITE” pellets before I started doing this.
Regards,
AZUARO