a new Morini 162ei - how do I...

[tonymcg]

Picked up a new Morini 162ei a couple of weeks ago. Love it, mostly...

2 problems are giving me mental grief and any help/suggestions would be appreciated

Firstly - the gun came with a 5mm front sight. Exactly what I wanted. The rear sight gap was too narrow so I widened it to the maximum allowable - still too narrow. Don't want a lot more, maybe 1.5 mm each side. Is there any way to reposition/realign the rear sight to effect this - without having to use a file ;)

Second - the trigger position. I have a medium sized hand (& fingers) and got the medium grip. Good fit. However I found the trigger position to be too far back and adjusted it to the maximum allowable forward position. Still not out there far enough and don't have any more adjustment. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, a solution?

[Freepistol]

Hi Tony,
It sounds like you have long arms effectively making the notch narrower.
One suggestion is to try a Morini 162EI Short. The rear sight is farther back. If that distance is enough, you could change to the "Short" rear sight, but the top of your grip will need to be modified.
Ben

[Steve Swartz as Guest]

Tony:

If I get the time, I'll try to find the old thread where I spelled out (step by step) how to re-center the rear sight notch.

Basically, the rear sight design has a spindle, an inner barrel, and an outer barrel. Remove the rear sight, and move both barrels along the spindle closer to the screw head of the spindle. This will then allow you to move the outer barrel further away from the inner barrel (mvoing the repsective blades further apart). The tricky part is once you get the width right, you need to move both spindles back over (awqay from the spindle screw head) or you will lose valuable windage adjustment.

Anyhow

I think my old post gave a lot more details. It's an elegant design, and if you are moderately mechanically inclined, it's interesting and fun!

Steve

[David Levene]

I think my old post gave a lot more details. It's an elegant design, and if you are moderately mechanically inclined, it's interesting and fun!

Steve, this is what you posted 26th February 2006. I kept it because I will get around to doing it eventually.

O.K., I had to go through soem fine tuning on my new 162E. I have a 6mm front blade (barn door) and use about 1/3 the front width on either side (open barn doors) on a sub six hold (front sight on bottom edge of barn doors).

Bad eyes.

Anyhow, I first noticed that it appeared as though I could have either wide notch, or centered notch, but not both. I Feel Your Pain.

If you aren't comfortable chasing little springy bits around your house, stop now and send to Scott.

Assuming you are prepared to completely disassemble your rear sight assembly, do so now. When you get to the point where the rear notch sub assembly is "free," you will note that (oh by the way, put that spring that just went flying across the room in a Safe Place. And yeah, hope you got a real good look at exactly how it is supposed to go back in cause it's real easy to do it wrong) the two halves of the blade can be rotated along the two-threaded rod piece they are attached to. The rod is counter threaded (IIRC) so screwing them in the same direction actually moves them in tandem along the rod left-right; screwing them in opposite directions makes them either closer together or farther apart.

Hope you counted the number of clicks used when disassembling the rear sight assembly . . . this comes in real handy later so you can tell whether or not you actually amde things better before reassembling the whole danged thing to find out you actually just made it worse! As you unscrew the rear blade subassembly using the L/R adjustment screw you are creeping the two blade halves along the double-threaded rod at the same time. This gets clearer here in a paragraph or two.

Once the rear blade subassembly is free, take a moment and admire the elegance of this engineering solution. No, seriously! Cussing out the design engineers right now isn't helping. It is a quite clever piece at that.

O.K., what you are trying to do is get the blades wide apart, but way over on the left side of the rod. When you screw the rod-blades subassembly back in, you want there to be enough threads left to get the RH blade over to the RH side without running out of thread.

This is really hard to explain without your actually seeing it.

You will have to flop the left blade >>out<< (notch wider!) a few revolutions (how many is a few? wish I knew. I didn't follow the advice I'm giving you right now; I had to Find Out The Hard Way). ANyhow, I think two or three revolutions should do it . . . oops, the left blade just popped off the rod! O.K., one less than that then. Stiff upper lip now; back at it!

Anyhow, be prepared to fiddle with this several times installing/tweaking/re-installing before you get it just right.

[yana]

Why not simply fit a smaller frontsight insert? And a reach forward triggerblade? Those are obtainable for the morini..
Pilkguns should have the triggerblades..

[David Levene]

Why not simply fit a smaller frontsight insert?

Because some people don't want a smaller frontsight, they like a wider one.

[tonymcg]

Steve thanks for the re-centering idea and David for chasing up the detail. I will give it a try. Yana, David is correct, I much prefer the wider front sight. As to the reach forward trigger blade - haven't heard of it before and did a web search but couldn't find a link nor could I find it on the Pilkguns site (might be there but not where I looked) if you know of a link I would appreciate a reply.

Thanks to all

[Guest]

http://www.pilkguns.com/masprlist.htm#morini , go to Morini guns , scroll down.
it is there $40.00.

[Pabs]

Guest - thank you for the heads up