Scatt info for those that dont have one
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Well, o.k. maybe I was being "too clever by half."
Actually you have two distinct issues going on . . .
1. Related to where the shot starts vs. where it lands; and
2. Related to the distance between the dots just before the shot breaks
They are related (common cause) but are typically treated separately.
Steve
(p.s. you have a ~580s hold by the way. I wouldn't worry too much about my "hold" or "wobble area" if I were you!)
Actually you have two distinct issues going on . . .
1. Related to where the shot starts vs. where it lands; and
2. Related to the distance between the dots just before the shot breaks
They are related (common cause) but are typically treated separately.
Steve
(p.s. you have a ~580s hold by the way. I wouldn't worry too much about my "hold" or "wobble area" if I were you!)
I can tell when I have a 'sweet' shot (about 1 shot in 20) - it just feels right. The rest - well I can't call them yet - they certainly don't go where I thought they did (I've only had the AP in my hand on 8 occassions and shooting an average 60 shots with a .22 on average every second weekend for 7 months - I'm still a novice)
If I were to hazard a guess I would say I was jerking the trigger or squeezing the grip while triggering.
I also note that more often than not it accelerates away whilst I squeeze the trigger
If I were to hazard a guess I would say I was jerking the trigger or squeezing the grip while triggering.
I also note that more often than not it accelerates away whilst I squeeze the trigger
I really hate to get into this long distance evaluation, especially when it involves highlighting errors, but IMNSHO, you have two distinct detractors:
1) Your pressures are not in line with the bore, and
2) You have poor follow-through
Suggested corrective actions:
1a) Find a grip that allows for a variation in tension to still maintain alignment. IOW, grip with as much of the force as you can being applied to the center of the front and center of the back of the grip, such that if you alternately tighten and release slightly, the sights stay aligned.
1b) Find a trigger finger placement and movement such that it keeps the sights aligned throughout, with a relatively fast (determined) manipulation. A slow actuation will allow you to cover up out of line trigger pressures by adjusting your sights with the wrist. A faster operation will show you when you have reached the optimum in trigger purity.
2) Stay on sight alignment for a definite moment after the shot. An outside observer should not be able to tell when you fired by your actions at that moment. This will move the purple part of the trace into the red hold area.
BTW, I agree with Steve that you have a great hold!
Take Care,
Ed Hall
US Air Force Competitive Shooting
Bullseye (and International) Competition Things
1) Your pressures are not in line with the bore, and
2) You have poor follow-through
Suggested corrective actions:
1a) Find a grip that allows for a variation in tension to still maintain alignment. IOW, grip with as much of the force as you can being applied to the center of the front and center of the back of the grip, such that if you alternately tighten and release slightly, the sights stay aligned.
1b) Find a trigger finger placement and movement such that it keeps the sights aligned throughout, with a relatively fast (determined) manipulation. A slow actuation will allow you to cover up out of line trigger pressures by adjusting your sights with the wrist. A faster operation will show you when you have reached the optimum in trigger purity.
2) Stay on sight alignment for a definite moment after the shot. An outside observer should not be able to tell when you fired by your actions at that moment. This will move the purple part of the trace into the red hold area.
BTW, I agree with Steve that you have a great hold!
Take Care,
Ed Hall
US Air Force Competitive Shooting
Bullseye (and International) Competition Things
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scatt
Steve Ed anb Hig keep it up I think All scatt users are looking for guidence. My ten ring hold is at 54%, MY FOLLOW THROUGH is slowly getting better, But my trigger isnt perfect . I cant come up with a good answer yet ( I quit drinking a gallon of soda a day and am waiting for any side effects to wear off) Having this thread is helping and I hope it continues........David
One other comment / question, is how long are you holding on for ? If you were to shoot 1 or 2 seconds earlier, you may well get in the region where your hold is centering on. It looks a little bit like you're looking for the perfect sight picture and almost trying to force it into the middle, with a resulting pushing of the shot outside the black. A simple thing to do is time yourself from coming into aim until shot release - it should be about 3-5 secs ish.
As above though, online coaching/problem identification and resolution is extremely difficult.
Rob.
As above though, online coaching/problem identification and resolution is extremely difficult.
Rob.
Although online coaching would be great - I understand that it's basically impossible but I'm hoping the pictures prompt ideas, thoughts about what could be going wrong, things to look out for, guidance on solving those potential problems - that sort of thing.
Would posting the .rk files be better than the pictures? Given the Rika and Scatt software are free it means anyone can load and view them! Building a library of good and bad with associated commentary might be useful - Yes/No?
Cheers
David
Would posting the .rk files be better than the pictures? Given the Rika and Scatt software are free it means anyone can load and view them! Building a library of good and bad with associated commentary might be useful - Yes/No?
Cheers
David
1. You are waiting for perfect sight picture before initiating the shot
2. You are disrupting the sight alignment when you apply pressure to the trigger
1. Can't be solved- you have to intuitively come to realize that you have to turn over control of the shot to some other mechanism than "wait until I see a perfect shot, then start to release it"
2. Dry fire against a neutral surface until you can reliably and confidently release the trigger smoothly and rapidly without disturbing the sight alignment OR the smooth settled wobble you have established. Mixed random live/dry fire will also help.
The good news is both problems are probably teh most common errors/bad habits developing shooters (of whatever level) will struggle with.
The bad news they are popular errors for a reason . . .
Steve
[I still say the whole "score if shot released X earlier" thing is probably the most misunderstood aspect of the data provided by Scatt/Rika. There is a huge difference between "triggering earlier" and "holding too long" they are apples and quartzite.)
2. You are disrupting the sight alignment when you apply pressure to the trigger
1. Can't be solved- you have to intuitively come to realize that you have to turn over control of the shot to some other mechanism than "wait until I see a perfect shot, then start to release it"
2. Dry fire against a neutral surface until you can reliably and confidently release the trigger smoothly and rapidly without disturbing the sight alignment OR the smooth settled wobble you have established. Mixed random live/dry fire will also help.
The good news is both problems are probably teh most common errors/bad habits developing shooters (of whatever level) will struggle with.
The bad news they are popular errors for a reason . . .
Steve
[I still say the whole "score if shot released X earlier" thing is probably the most misunderstood aspect of the data provided by Scatt/Rika. There is a huge difference between "triggering earlier" and "holding too long" they are apples and quartzite.)
Perhaps Steve but it's one of the many tools in the box that can give shooters and coaches some additional information. I would agree though that you can't just say "shoot 2.5 secs earlier" for example.Steve Swartz as Guest wrote:
[I still say the whole "score if shot released X earlier" thing is probably the most misunderstood aspect of the data provided by Scatt/Rika. There is a huge difference between "triggering earlier" and "holding too long" they are apples and quartzite.)
Rob.
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I know that Steve, Ed, David and Rob are right in their assessments - now I just need to overcome the problems :)
I find it interesting that sometimes I come to hold on the target and I observe no perceptable oscillation at all yet other days I seem to be all over the place (yet the Rika shows I'm holding well). I imagine that this may be related to the level of concentration on the aim as opposed to the sight picture.
I'm going to try the TriggerWork setup tonight and keep at it (playing with my grip as well). I have noted that my 'natural' alignment has the forsight off to the right. I might see if I can adjust the actual pistol grip to straighten it up (or maybe I need to rotate my grip on the grip more to the left - right handed shooter)
The one thing I learnt from my archery days - score is meaningless - it's ones form that counts and how that form feels (ie the shot execution). Scoring a 10 for a poorly executed shot is just luck.
Cheers
David
I find it interesting that sometimes I come to hold on the target and I observe no perceptable oscillation at all yet other days I seem to be all over the place (yet the Rika shows I'm holding well). I imagine that this may be related to the level of concentration on the aim as opposed to the sight picture.
I'm going to try the TriggerWork setup tonight and keep at it (playing with my grip as well). I have noted that my 'natural' alignment has the forsight off to the right. I might see if I can adjust the actual pistol grip to straighten it up (or maybe I need to rotate my grip on the grip more to the left - right handed shooter)
The one thing I learnt from my archery days - score is meaningless - it's ones form that counts and how that form feels (ie the shot execution). Scoring a 10 for a poorly executed shot is just luck.
Cheers
David
David,higginsdj wrote:A question on something Rob mentioned. I am holding for that perfect alignment (first problem) by 'refining' my aim/hold to 'force' it into the target centre.
Now is refining the aim/hold to smaller and smaller oscillations around the centre a bad thing or have I misinterpreted Rob?
Cheers
David
I'm not quite sure I follow you so let me come at it another way. Your hold is a semi random oscillation of movements. You will never acheive a consistent zen-like state of immobility. You will get shot's where it looks like the gun is in a vice, but probably not too often. What you need to do is to accept your hold and shoot within it. If you try and let the shot break when it wants you should find it gets better and better. Trying to force the shot just means you're more likely to force out fliers and get poorer shots more of the time. Work on shooting within your hold but also shoot at the optimum time. Perhaps try and get someone to time you, or count in your head for 20 shots or so and write down the time of every shot. Forget the score element whilst trying to 'learn' a process or new element, it's irrelevant until you've properly learnt the process.
I hope that's understandable and not even more confusing.
Rob.
Re: scatt
It was David's original Post and wow has it gone in a great direction.david alaways wrote:I think All scatt users are looking for guidence.
Posts elsewhere commented on the importance of the L Factor. According to the article by Scott Shaffer the L Factor is the distance the barrel travels in the last second before shot release (and) lowering the L Factor will improve your shooting. On my Scatt the L Factor is displayed after each shot.
Based on Ed Hall's suggestions earlier in this post I have been practicing to improve my hold using a blank target (thanks Ed, I am very happy with the results after daily practice for just a week). At the end of my practice I check my performance against the L factor values and average for the 60 shots AND against the Steadiness in the 10 value (being a blank target Scatt returns a percentage value for a virtual ten ring hold for each shot).
My average L Factor was 142 and base steadiness 51%.
Now I would have assumed there would be a correlation between the two measures and often there is. Yet I can shoot a shot and get a very high percentage steadiness say 96% and yet the L factor might be 220. On another shot the L factor might get as low as 110 and the steadiness is 36%.
Questions:
a) What would be considered good "steadiness in 10" and L factor values to strive for in 10m Air?
b) If the correlation between steadiness and L factor is not as close as I would have thought then what additional specific training might be undertaken to reduce the L factor value?
Any guidance would be gratefully appreciated
Tony