I'd like to make my old 162 look like new again. For me, thats part of the fun.
The cilinder is scratched, the paint is all gone on the action side, probably from resting it on something.
Anyway, I'd like to respray the cilinder. Already asked morini for a colourcode.
Bút, how do you bleed the air? Just push in the air thingie in like bleeding a car tyre?
Can you than just unscrew the cilinder? If you do, probably would be best to replace some seals there as well? Does Pilkguns have those seals?
To remove the grip, what screws to loosen? The little one in the underside plate and the one on top?
removing 162E aircilinder
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David Levene
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:49 pm
- Location: Ruislip, UK
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Guest
I know the pressure, thats why I'm asking how to empty the cilinder.
Once empty, it shouldnt be a big deal to remove it.
I always ask first before I do, its an old model and I dont know how many seals are still available..Ánd I ask, because its always best to ask and be súre than to you dó and be sorry..Dont want to unscrew it, damage an old seal while doing that and than find out the seals are no longer available..
Didnt get a manual with it and our country doesnt have a morini importer so help here is very limited..
The gunshops here are all mostly FA so little knowledge of air, so yr really on yr own with these things,(exchanging seals etc)..There's ONE airgunshop in our country, but, understandably, they never have the time..
Once empty, it shouldnt be a big deal to remove it.
I always ask first before I do, its an old model and I dont know how many seals are still available..Ánd I ask, because its always best to ask and be súre than to you dó and be sorry..Dont want to unscrew it, damage an old seal while doing that and than find out the seals are no longer available..
Didnt get a manual with it and our country doesnt have a morini importer so help here is very limited..
The gunshops here are all mostly FA so little knowledge of air, so yr really on yr own with these things,(exchanging seals etc)..There's ONE airgunshop in our country, but, understandably, they never have the time..
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Guest
For a reply to muffy, the exchange kit is about $350?
I bought my 162 for E440= about $500-550. A kit would kost me 350+sending ($40?)+ 19% taxes+?% import taxes..Total cost would be as much as I paid for the whole pistol, maybe even more..So thats not a real option..
(Prices in germany ,where I bought mine, are usually less than US prices for matchguns.)
I bought my 162 for E440= about $500-550. A kit would kost me 350+sending ($40?)+ 19% taxes+?% import taxes..Total cost would be as much as I paid for the whole pistol, maybe even more..So thats not a real option..
(Prices in germany ,where I bought mine, are usually less than US prices for matchguns.)
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Fortitudo Dei
- Posts: 256
- Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 8:30 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Remove screw cap on the front of the cylinder which covers the fill valve. In the middle of the valve is a small nipple. Holding the cylinder firming in both hands, push the nipple against a hard surface. If the pressure is high it may take a fair push, but eventually the nipple will push in and any air in the cylinder will discharge with a blast.
Remove the two bolts on the top of the pistol which lock in the barrel. Gently remove the barrel (this may take a bit of gentle wiggling from side to side).
Now you can remove the cylinder. The best way to do this is to first lock it into a vice - which can be a bit tricky because it is of course it is round. Wrap a good length of cloth along the entire length of the cylinder to spread the pressure-point of the vice. Don't over tighten as you run the risk of crushing the cylinder. Alternatively, sheath the cylinder with a length of PVC or metal pipe which has a slightly larger diameter as the cylinder, split vertically down the middle. With the cylinder locked in the vice, grab the grip with both hands an turn it to unscrew the rest of the gun from the cylinder. With the cylinder still locked, unscrew the front valve section from the cylinder with a spanner.
As far as I know, seals are still available for the 162e. Most are standard round-section O rings, but a couple of the smaller ones are square-section O rings which are harder to find. I purchased a set from Potters in Australia but hopefully should be available from Morini if you don't have an agent handy.
Add a thin smear of silicone grease to each gasket as you fit it. Also lightly grease the threads which screw into the cylinder. There are a few parts inside the cylinder (particularly in the front valve section) which need to be reassembled in the correct order so I suggest you document each step of your disassembly with a digital camera to avoid any mistakes. The tiny O ring directly behind the fill valve often needs to be fitted a few times before it sits properly and will hold pressure. Be careful not to nick it when removing it from its groove (avoid using a sharp metal tool to pry it out).
Good luck!
Remove the two bolts on the top of the pistol which lock in the barrel. Gently remove the barrel (this may take a bit of gentle wiggling from side to side).
Now you can remove the cylinder. The best way to do this is to first lock it into a vice - which can be a bit tricky because it is of course it is round. Wrap a good length of cloth along the entire length of the cylinder to spread the pressure-point of the vice. Don't over tighten as you run the risk of crushing the cylinder. Alternatively, sheath the cylinder with a length of PVC or metal pipe which has a slightly larger diameter as the cylinder, split vertically down the middle. With the cylinder locked in the vice, grab the grip with both hands an turn it to unscrew the rest of the gun from the cylinder. With the cylinder still locked, unscrew the front valve section from the cylinder with a spanner.
As far as I know, seals are still available for the 162e. Most are standard round-section O rings, but a couple of the smaller ones are square-section O rings which are harder to find. I purchased a set from Potters in Australia but hopefully should be available from Morini if you don't have an agent handy.
Add a thin smear of silicone grease to each gasket as you fit it. Also lightly grease the threads which screw into the cylinder. There are a few parts inside the cylinder (particularly in the front valve section) which need to be reassembled in the correct order so I suggest you document each step of your disassembly with a digital camera to avoid any mistakes. The tiny O ring directly behind the fill valve often needs to be fitted a few times before it sits properly and will hold pressure. Be careful not to nick it when removing it from its groove (avoid using a sharp metal tool to pry it out).
Good luck!
Be careful, once you empty the cylinder you need to cycle the action a number of times to remove any pressure from the pre charge chamber.
All the seals are easily available (except the poppet valve seal), if you use ordinary "O" ring seals, get them in Nitrol 90 - a little harder and will last longer.
Also check, the early cylinders are annodised not painted and are nearing their life age limit.
I would strongly suggest an upgrade to the removable tanks.
All the seals are easily available (except the poppet valve seal), if you use ordinary "O" ring seals, get them in Nitrol 90 - a little harder and will last longer.
Also check, the early cylinders are annodised not painted and are nearing their life age limit.
I would strongly suggest an upgrade to the removable tanks.
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Guest
Fortitudo, thanks for yr info. I already thought that was the correct way to empty the cilinder.
I also already feared some seals would be harder to get..
Dont know about US rules regarding testing the small cilinders. Here, only the big filling bottles must be tested every 5? yrs. I once asked Daystate about my Midas from the 80's about having the cilinder tested. No need, they said, we've tested a lot of them during the years, not one ever failed the test..To be safe, I did have the 162's cilinder outside visually inspected by the airgunshop (with magnifying glass). It still looks ivgc, apart from paintscratches.
:)
I also already feared some seals would be harder to get..
Dont know about US rules regarding testing the small cilinders. Here, only the big filling bottles must be tested every 5? yrs. I once asked Daystate about my Midas from the 80's about having the cilinder tested. No need, they said, we've tested a lot of them during the years, not one ever failed the test..To be safe, I did have the 162's cilinder outside visually inspected by the airgunshop (with magnifying glass). It still looks ivgc, apart from paintscratches.
:)
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Guest
1. Remove battery coverplate
2. Pull down gently on the circuit board and remove from grip
3. Remove grip screw - should be two, one under the rear sight and one down mid grip (both at rear on centreline).
4. Remove Grip
5. Grip Mount plate is attached to frame with a torex screw.
6. The missing grip screw needs to be long enough to go through the grip and into the grip frame but not protude far enough to hit the circuit board.
7. Remove the torex screw (be aware of the velocity spring under this plate).
8. With the mount plate removed, trial fit the plate only back in the grip with the remaining screw. Now use the grip/plate to fit a new screw of the correct length.
From memory I think they are 4mm, but check.
2. Pull down gently on the circuit board and remove from grip
3. Remove grip screw - should be two, one under the rear sight and one down mid grip (both at rear on centreline).
4. Remove Grip
5. Grip Mount plate is attached to frame with a torex screw.
6. The missing grip screw needs to be long enough to go through the grip and into the grip frame but not protude far enough to hit the circuit board.
7. Remove the torex screw (be aware of the velocity spring under this plate).
8. With the mount plate removed, trial fit the plate only back in the grip with the remaining screw. Now use the grip/plate to fit a new screw of the correct length.
From memory I think they are 4mm, but check.