Slide bite from 208s
Moderators: pilkguns, m1963, Isabel1130
Slide bite from 208s
Does anyone else have a large hand that gets slide bite from their S&W 41 or their Hammerli 208s? If so what do you do about it?
-
Isabel1130
- Posts: 1364
- Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:19 pm
- Location: Wyoming
What kind of grips are we talking about on the 208? I don't have that problem but I don't have large hands. I have a mil style grip on one of my 208s and a Nills on my other one. The problem I do have is that one of my 208's ejects the brass right back into the middle of my forehead. I either need to change out the spring or wear a hat when I shoot it I guess. :-) Isabel
Hi Jack,
First thought - Is the rear sight mount still on the gun or have you removed it because you use a dot? The rear sight also acts as a shield for some of us, keeping the slide isolated from our hand.
Hi Isabel,
First thought for your issue is that the empty cases are ejecting off the magazine(s) instead of the ejector. This could be caused by the magazines riding too high or by the slide having peened some.
-Take the slide off the gun and remove the recoil spring.
-Place an empty case in the slide and see if it stays when the slide is held in its proper orientation.
-Try to determine if the cutout has closed any due to peening.
-Try to determine if the opposite side from the extractor has "flowed" outward and is not capable of holding the empty case well.
If above looks good:
-Replace slide without recoil spring.
-Load empty case into chamber.
-Close slide
-Open slide slowly and observe the empty case.
-Watch to see if the case stays in the slide until it contacts the ejector.
-Make note of where the slide is when the case contacts the ejector.
-Do the same with an empty magazine inserted.
-Make note where the case ejects. Does it make it all the way to the ejector or is it hitting a magazine lip first?
Even if the magazine is ejecting the case instead of the ejector, it might still be due to a peened slide, in which case, the slide should be sent to Larry's Guns for work.
However, it is possible the magazines are the problem and need to be lowered slightly. This can be a simple task, but it can also turn into a complicated one.
Basically, all that is needed, it to file away a small amount of the bottom tab of the backstrap of the metal magazine tube. This tab rides on the catch and regulates how high the magazine rides within the grip. More specifically, the magazine should be held such that the case clears the front tip of the left rear lip (and right as well) as it travels to the ejector.
However, taking too much off this tab can cause other troubles, such as slide notch/slide lock wear, failure to lock back after last round and failure to pick up rounds. If you do remove any of the tab, make sure you check that the slide lock is moved sufficiently into the slide catch notch. If it isn't, you will need to raise the side slots to allow the follower to travel further.
If you choose to remove a portion of the tab, do so lightly, with a support behind it so you don't bend it over and remember to check often.
Hope this was helpful.
Take Care,
Ed Hall
Air Force Shooting Homepage
Bullseye (and International) Competition Things
First thought - Is the rear sight mount still on the gun or have you removed it because you use a dot? The rear sight also acts as a shield for some of us, keeping the slide isolated from our hand.
Hi Isabel,
First thought for your issue is that the empty cases are ejecting off the magazine(s) instead of the ejector. This could be caused by the magazines riding too high or by the slide having peened some.
-Take the slide off the gun and remove the recoil spring.
-Place an empty case in the slide and see if it stays when the slide is held in its proper orientation.
-Try to determine if the cutout has closed any due to peening.
-Try to determine if the opposite side from the extractor has "flowed" outward and is not capable of holding the empty case well.
If above looks good:
-Replace slide without recoil spring.
-Load empty case into chamber.
-Close slide
-Open slide slowly and observe the empty case.
-Watch to see if the case stays in the slide until it contacts the ejector.
-Make note of where the slide is when the case contacts the ejector.
-Do the same with an empty magazine inserted.
-Make note where the case ejects. Does it make it all the way to the ejector or is it hitting a magazine lip first?
Even if the magazine is ejecting the case instead of the ejector, it might still be due to a peened slide, in which case, the slide should be sent to Larry's Guns for work.
However, it is possible the magazines are the problem and need to be lowered slightly. This can be a simple task, but it can also turn into a complicated one.
Basically, all that is needed, it to file away a small amount of the bottom tab of the backstrap of the metal magazine tube. This tab rides on the catch and regulates how high the magazine rides within the grip. More specifically, the magazine should be held such that the case clears the front tip of the left rear lip (and right as well) as it travels to the ejector.
However, taking too much off this tab can cause other troubles, such as slide notch/slide lock wear, failure to lock back after last round and failure to pick up rounds. If you do remove any of the tab, make sure you check that the slide lock is moved sufficiently into the slide catch notch. If it isn't, you will need to raise the side slots to allow the follower to travel further.
If you choose to remove a portion of the tab, do so lightly, with a support behind it so you don't bend it over and remember to check often.
Hope this was helpful.
Take Care,
Ed Hall
Air Force Shooting Homepage
Bullseye (and International) Competition Things
Hi Ed
Yes the sight is there. I have a fleshy web that scrunches up behind the 208s "beavertail" even if i roll it under. If I add a leather flap about a 1/4" -3/8" long, it protects the hand from the slide. But if I dont get it set just right it slows the slide closing. I am going to work with Roddy to fashion a metal piece fastened to the sight screw hole. Otherwise I have no idea what to do. I have contemplated selling the dang things. Two 208s and one 41. Maybe the 45 adapter willwork.
Thick hand and thick head.
Yes the sight is there. I have a fleshy web that scrunches up behind the 208s "beavertail" even if i roll it under. If I add a leather flap about a 1/4" -3/8" long, it protects the hand from the slide. But if I dont get it set just right it slows the slide closing. I am going to work with Roddy to fashion a metal piece fastened to the sight screw hole. Otherwise I have no idea what to do. I have contemplated selling the dang things. Two 208s and one 41. Maybe the 45 adapter willwork.
Thick hand and thick head.
Hi Jack
Have you tried the composite grip from Larry Carter? It has an extra back piece that actually eliminates the need for the rear sight. You can see the grip here:
http://www.shootingwiki.org/index.php?t ... C04393.JPG
He doesn't show it on the site, at least not where I can find it, but should still be able to get it. You could try a call to him, if interested.
Take Care,
Ed Hall
Air Force Shooting Homepage
Bullseye (and International) Competition Things
Have you tried the composite grip from Larry Carter? It has an extra back piece that actually eliminates the need for the rear sight. You can see the grip here:
http://www.shootingwiki.org/index.php?t ... C04393.JPG
He doesn't show it on the site, at least not where I can find it, but should still be able to get it. You could try a call to him, if interested.
Take Care,
Ed Hall
Air Force Shooting Homepage
Bullseye (and International) Competition Things