TargetTalk

Hello.
I‘be recently bought a FAS 607 as replacement for my Domino, which needs some gunsmithing, which will exceed the guns value, to be up to date. Lovely gun, though.

With the 607 I‘be have problems with calling the shots and getting the same feel and results. I have been adjusting the trigger to make it as smooth as the Domino, getting closer, but is still not there.
Today I noticed, that I can do a "perfect" dry release on both the Domino and my FAS 603 and my Morini AP with no movement when releasing the trigger, but on the 607 there is a very noticeable horizontal movement. I‘m not sure if it is during release or just after.

It made me think triggerstop or badly adjusted trigger.

Does anybody know if there is a built-in triggerstop or do I have to figure out how to make a physical triggerstop, for instance a small screw in the triggerguard.

I have seen a post here, probably from David Levene, mentioning something with the early models. My gun has no. 13851.

Any advice or help is highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Keld

As far as I know the 607 was never fitted with a trigger stop.

My comment regarding older/newer 607s was to do with the actual feel of the trigger release.

On the earlier 607s the hammer box internals were the same as on the 602, so it was designed to have the "click" just before the final let off (IMHO making it the best trigger ever made, if properly adjusted). The design was changed on the later 6072 so that it was not possible to get the "click".

It is difficult to describe the click. My best description was to imagine that you were pushing a boulder up a hill. Just before it gets to the top (were it would roll away from you) it settles into a small indentation on the face of the hill, creating the "click" as it settles in. At that point it takes less pressure to hold the boulder where it is than it took to get it there. If you release all of the pressure then it will roll back down to the start. It just needs a little bit more pressure than before to move it up the tiny bit of the remaining uphill section before it rolls over the top and away (the trigger release).

I did say it was hard to explain, especially so if you haven't experienced it.

I think I‘m able to imagine what it feels like, sounds interesting.

Do you think, that my gun will be capable of such adjustment and do you know which way to turn the screw to get there?
Thanks,
Keld

I can't tell from the serial number I'm afraid.

It's the very small socket head screw in the back of the hammer box that you adjust.

Assuming that you already have a 2 stage trigger and can feel a stop before the trigger breaks, turn that screw clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until the 2nd stage disappears. Then turn it anti-clockwise 1/8 turn at a time until you get the 2nd stage back. then turn the screw clockwise 1/16 turn at a time until it goes, then anti-clockwise 1/32 time etc.

You keep adjusting it backwards and forwards in decreasing amounts until you are only just feeling the screw move, "cracking it".

At that point you will either have the "click" or a very good trigger without the click.

Thanks for that valuable trigger adjustment advice David.

Whilst my FAS 602 has a trigger to die for ( even better than my Walther SSP-E ), my FAS 607 trigger, whilst good, is not in the same category.

I'll give this a go...

Somewhere I have a CAD model of the 602 trigger unit, it helps a lot to understand how it works and what the screws do.

I will dig it out....

JamesH wrote:Somewhere I have a CAD model of the 602 trigger unit, it helps a lot to understand how it works and what the screws do.

I will dig it out....

Thanks, Leon...

Sorry, slipped my mind entirely.
Attached some old instructions from Gowers, the old UK importer.

On the trigger unit:

- the lower screw controls the force on the sear

- the upper screw controls whether the trigger is:
- Single stage light trigger
- Single stage heavy trigger
- Two-stage light-heavy trigger, and length of the first stage versus the second stage

and also dramatically affects the let-off weight, and if incorrectly set can prevent the sear releasing the hammer at all.
Sear engagement is not adjustable.

I will post some drawings 'soon' which should make it clear.

Greetings,

The attachment provided by JamesH was so welcome to me, I decided to retype the text as the original scan is showing it's age.

Again, many thanks for such an excellent document on the adjustments of the FAS pistol series.

With kind regards,

David

Try this. It may make sense to someone and maybe it could be drawn a bit clearer, or schematically.

Basically there are two levers, the sear and the latch.

The trigger bar bears at a fixed point on the sear.

Where the sear bears on the latch dramatically affects the force required by the trigger bar to move the sear against the latch.
There is a double lever effect which magnifies the change in force.

As far as I remember the unit can be jammed if either the upper or lower screws are turned in too far.

Its best to set the upper screw to give a fine transition - as described by David Levene above - then set the lower screw to give enough force to pass the trigger weight.
In fact usually the trigger return spring must also be adjusted to a high level to get it to pass, if overstressed the latch spring tends to give up and need to be replaced, same for the hammer spring, actually all the springs on the FAS.....

If anyone wants a parasolid or edrawings file (which can include configurations) let me know by PM with an email address.

The original was in Solid Edge, translated into Solidworks, those are available also but only the Solidworks model is configured, and the Solidworks parts are dumb solids.

I was looking for information on the FAS 607 and whether it has a built-in trigger stop (backlash in...French), and I found out that the grub screw G in front of the trigger blade is the actual TS. I tried it on my FAS 607 and guess what? It is just that. The vertical grub screw F adjusts the take-up travel distance of the trigger before tet-off, while the horizontal G grub screw permits the adjustment of the precise point where you wish the trigger travel to end after the shot is fired.